Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2017 Paris

Anonim

Yana da hukuma. Sha'awar fashion don bazara shine tafiya - ma'anar ma'anar, hakika, suna sauri don bayyana maƙiya, masu tafiya, masu zazzage ido na masu zanen kaya. Akwai uku daga aiki, dama can. Wannan ra'ayin na motsi ba kawai tushen wahayi ne ga Kim Jones ba - hanya ce ta rayuwa. Mutum ne da ya kama shi da yawo, mutumin da ya yi tafiya zuwa Japan shi kaɗai fiye da sau 70 a cikin shekaru goma da suka shige, da kuma wurare da yawa banda haka.

Tsayawa tare da Jones aiki ne mai wahala. Da kyau, an ba shi alhakin zayyana kayan sawa na maza don Louis Vuitton, gidan wanda kafa raison d'être shine ra'ayin ɗan jirgin. Yana da wuya menene amma ina na gaba tare da Jones, idan yazo da wahayi. Al'amuran suna yin sutura.

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Ta yaya, to, cewa a kakar wasa ta gaba Jones ya yanke shawarar kada ya tsere, amma ya dawo? Nunin sa na bazara na Louis Vuitton ba game da balaguro bane—maimakon zuwa gida. A cikin salon Jonesian na yau da kullun, wannan ba ya danganta da yanki ɗaya, amma uku: Afirka, inda ya girma; Landan, inda ya yi karatu; da kuma Paris, inda yake zaune kuma yake aiki a yanzu.

Na biyun sun kasance mafi bayyananne: Afirka, tushen kyawawan fatun kada na kada da jimina, Masai da aka yi wahayi zuwa gare su, da palette mai bleached, palette mai yashi wanda ya mamaye buff, taupe, da ecru (za mu kira shi. beige); yayin da London ta mika wuya. "A koyaushe akwai wani abu ɗan London da ke ɓoye a wani wuri," in ji Jones. A gaskiya, akwai abubuwa da yawa. Jones ya kasance mai tattara abubuwan tunawa na punk - ƙungiyarsa na Vivienne Westwood da Malcolm McLaren na fitowar su daga zamanin Jima'i da Seditionary ba na biyu ba, ciki har da gidan kayan gargajiya da yawa - kuma ya sanya shi da kyau don amfani da shi azaman abin tunani don tarin tarin. wando, D-zobe, da kwalaben kare, duk da cewa an gama su sosai a cikin salon Faransanci. Wannan abin wuyar kare, ba zato ba tsammani, wani salon tarihin Vuitton ne, wanda aka fi amfani da shi don tsumma, mai suna "Baxter."

Waɗancan m, anachronistic crossovers ne suka sanya wannan tarin ya zama da gaske. Ta yaya game da gwajin kimamin gasar tseren Afirka a cikin waɗancan sandunan da aka ɗaure? Ko kuma bayanan abubuwan amfani na punk sun haɗa, don Jones, zuwa yanayin aiki na tarihin Vuitton, shirye-shiryen bidiyo da maɗauran kututturen gargajiya. Wani dan kunar bakin wake mai ruwan hoda-tan a cikin yanayin barkewar buyayyar jimina ya tuna da wata tsohuwar karin magana: Punk kamar tabo ne. Sai dai, idan ana matse waɗannan Vuitton, zai kasance a cikin wurin shakatawa a Champneys. Sa'an nan kuma akwai gaskiyar da ake kira "Plastic Peculiars" da kuma ra'ayin cewa, a gaskiya, zane mai rufi na Vuitton wani nau'in filastik ne mai daraja (kuma mai tsada). Jones yana da ainihin abubuwan da ke cikin wannan nunin, kuma, ramukan roba masu ɗorewa da aka rubuta tare da monogram na LV kuma an buga su tare da nau'ikan dabbobin da suka rikide suka rubuta ta abokan zanen da abokan aikin Jake da Dinos Chapman na baya.

Menene zuwan gida yake nufi? Sanin kowa. Duk da yake ba za ku so ku kira wannan babban tarin hits ba, ya haifar da rikice-rikice da tunani game da ra'ayoyin da Jones ya bincika a duk tsawon rayuwarsa a gidan. Waɗancan kwafin Chapman ɗaya ne; dan Afirka ya duba wani, wanda aka kaddamar a farkonsa shekaru biyar zuwa kakar wasa, ya sake yin aiki a yau amma har yanzu ana iya gane shi. Lokacin da gidan zoo na Chapman ya yi yawo a kyauta, ya kasance a kan wani nau'in hoto na Vuitton wanda aka yi wahayi zuwa ga ainihin tsarin zane, wanda aka yi a 1896 - tushen monogram, kamar yadda Jones ya bincika tushensa.

A hakikanin gaskiya, wannan ita ce tafiya Jones ya yanke shawarar kai mu a wannan kakar - layin ƙwaƙwalwar ajiya, nasa da na Louis Vuitton. Siffofin jaka an ɗaga su da sane daga ma'ajiyar kayan tarihi - Steamer ya zama jakar baya; wani salon '70s-duffel mai suna Randonnee ya sami sabon madauri; Kututturan Valise sun fito da kayan kwalliya a cikin springbok ko zebra mai launin shuɗi. Abun da ke zuwa gida ya haifar da nunin da ya ji, watakila, ya fi zafi fiye da fitar da alamar kwanan nan; tabbas ƙarin sirri ne, wanda ba makawa ya ba da alaƙar Jones da abubuwan da ke hannun. Hakan ya ba shi ƙarin tasiri, zuwa ga ƙulli mai kyalli na fuska. Ya ba shi zurfin zurfi, wanda yake da wahala musamman lokacin da ake hulɗa da batutuwan da aka haƙa sosai a baya.

Maganar Jones a yau ba ta daɗa girma sosai kamar yadda aka sake fasalin punk. Ya nuna abin da tawaye zai iya nufi, a gidan kayan alatu na ƙarni na 21. Za a ɗaga gira-amma tawaye ba shine kallon ɓoyayyiyar karuwai ba, riguna masu ƙunshe da aminci na punk da aka tsara azaman suturar maza ta Vuitton, amma mai ƙira ya ba da yancin gabatar da su. A cikin shimfidar wuri mai cike da kayan alatu, shi ya sa wannan nunin ya yi fice.

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