Tufafi sun zama marasa jinsi da gaske ta hanyar lalacewa ta John Galliano don Maison Margiela Shirye don Sawa Fall/Winter 2019 Paris.
"Swan Lake" ya kumbura daga masu magana a wurin nunin a ranar Laraba yayin da ɗimbin ɗimbin ƙirar ƙira ke baje kolin ɗimbin ɗumbin ɗinkin ɗinkin ƙirƙira tare da kwafi da rubutu.
John Galliano ya sami kuskure wajen tattauna tarin faɗuwar sa na Maison Margiela. A cikin kaso na baya-bayan nan na “Memory of...” podcast a cikinsa yana tafiya ta cikin ilhama da tafiyar matakai da ke shiga cikin kowane tarin, yana rufewa da kyakkyawan sauti mai layi daya. "Ba game da ƙarshen samfurin ba. Tafiya ce."
Tabbas, tafiya na bincike, ganowa da ganewa suna da mahimmanci, musamman ga mai kirkira na gaskiya kamar Gallliano. Amma wannan shine salon, kuma samfurin ƙarshe shine tufafi. Abin da suke kama da ƙarshen layin yana da mahimmanci, aƙalla ga waɗanda ke sha'awar yuwuwar kasuwanci. Galliano's sun kasance masu ban sha'awa - ƙarfi kuma an yi su da kyau a cikin rikitaccen ɗan ƙaramin abu wanda ya fitar da shi daga wuce gona da iri wanda ke nuna ci gabansa a cikin tarin Artisanal na Janairu.
Maimakon yin rade-radin ɓata lokaci na yanayi da yawa, kamar yadda ya kasance m.o. tare da motifs na baya, Galliano ya hanzarta aiwatar da aiwatarwa zuwa ƙuduri. A cikin faifan podcast, ya yi magana game da hanyar da babu makawa ta lalata, daga wuce gona da iri zuwa ruɓe a cikin neman sahihancin Millennials ke nema. Ta hanyar lalacewa, za a iya rage kayan abu zuwa ainihin ainihin su, kuma wannan shine tsarinsa a nan. Samu haka?
Wannan ba duka ba ne. Sautin ya ce "Swan Lake." Haka kuma Galliano ya yi a cikin kwasfan fayilolinsa, duk da cewa an adana shi don kashi ɗaya ko biyu, ba za ku sami ma'ana ba tare da Bayanan Magana na Cliff ba. (Haɗin da ya fi dacewa: farar rigar matashin kai, wanda aka yi wahayi daga jakar sa hannun alamar alama kuma an lulluɓe shi da wani al'amari mai kama da wasan ninkaya, wanda mutum ke sawa a matsayin wani ɓangare na yaƙin cin zarafin jinsi na Galliano).
Abin da tarin ya kasance game da gaske: kyawawan tufafi masu ban sha'awa, waɗanda aka saki daga cacophony na couture ta wuce gona da iri, suna alfahari da ƙwararrun gine-ginen su.
Sau da yawa wannan ya haɗa da dinki na tela, wanda ya zama kayan ado na kayan ado da tunatarwa game da ƙwarewar da ke tattare da ƙirƙirar waɗannan tufafi. Yawancin jeri ya kasance duhu, ko da yake, tare da alamar tasirin Yohji a cikin silhouettes masu ƙarfi da aka ƙera a cikin kayan sawa na gargajiya na maza, tweeds, flannels da herringbones.
An mayar da hankali kan silhouette, kuma waccan hanyar da aka sake ginawa Galliano ya canza rigar flannel cikin riga ko hawan wando a cikin bustier da siket.
Amma kuma game da yuwuwar canji na takamaiman abubuwan gini: yadda gangaren kafadar baƙar fata ta ji gashin Crombie ya haifar da siffar kubba; ko yadda hannun riga a cikin masana'anta mai ban sha'awa da ƙari mai yawa, tsayi da tsayi fiye da yadda ake sa ran, canza riguna da jaket daga classic zuwa fashion; ko yadda masana'anta na filin hagu suka ɗauki sanannen trope wani wuri sabo. Jaket ɗin baƙar fata wanda ba a sani ba? Kai betcha, a cikin chiffon da aka ƙera bisa farar wadding, sanye da baƙar rigar Mackintosh.
Duk da haka wannan tarin ba kawai don saitin sober ba ne. Wasu kamannun sun yi aiki manyan bambance-bambance, wani dalili da aka gabatar da hankali cikin kyawun riga, baƙar neoprene a gaba da kuma yadin da aka saka launin toka a baya. Ma'anar: al'adar da ba ta da kyau, kuma Galliano ya shiga gaba ɗaya ta hanyar liƙa faifan bugu masu ɗorewa waɗanda ke nuna flamingo ruwan hoda mai zafi (matso, kuna haute shuɗi) zuwa gaban rigar herringbone da riguna na baya da jaket. Kuma menene ya fi al'ada fiye da gashin tweed Harris na maza? Galliano ne kawai ya yanka shi a cikin gajeriyar jaket ɗin dambe, bangon bayanta mai ƙawata flamingo wanda ya dace da wando jacquard mai tauri da takalmi na fata, wanda wani mutum ke sawa a cikin sararin samaniyar Galliano da ba shi da jinsi.
Yanayin gaba ɗaya ya kasance mai ƙarfi natsuwa, amma a cikin hakan, Galliano ya yi ba'a, a wasu lokuta yana ɗaukar riguna da masu sauraronsa zuwa ga ɓacin rai. Tabbas mutum zai iya saya a cikin bincikensa don gano sahihanci a cikin lalata; babu wanda ya fi ƙware fiye da shi a zurfafa tunani fashion musings. Ko kuma mutum zai iya jin daɗin samun cikakkiyar rigar da za a saya faɗuwar gaba da samun har abada. Ko ta yaya, tafiyar Galliano da samfurin ƙarshe sun cancanci tafiya.