Chanel Pre-Fall 2015 Salzburg
Karl Lagerfeld ya zagaya cikin nadi na kyamara a kan iPhone 6 nasa kuma ya haska hoton da aka gano kwanan nan: Bajamushe mai zane a lokacin yaro sanye da lederhosen. "A lokacin da nake yaro ban saka wani abu ba," in ji shi.Gilashin fata ya zaburar da sabuwar jakar jaka ta Chanel mai armashi, ƙuda mai ɗorewa ta rikiɗe zuwa jakar jakar da za ta iya sanya kamun kifin lipstick ya zama wani aiki mai jan hankali.
"Dole ne ku yarda yana da ban dariya sosai, a kan iyakar ƙazanta. Amma yana da ma'ana sosai, "Lagerfeld ya ce cikin farin ciki yayin da yake duba tarin sabbin kayan fasaha na Métiers, wanda ake kira Paris-Salzburg.
Ta hanyar ba da sabuwar rayuwa ga salon Alpine, Lagerfeld ya ba da gadon gadon gidan mai suna Gabrielle Chanel, wanda ya sami kwarin gwiwa ga ɗayan mafi kyawun ƙirarta da tsayin daka a cikin bambanci-datsa, jaket mai aljihu huɗu wanda ma'aikacin ɗagawa na Salzburg ke sawa. otal din Mittersall na musamman. Maigidanta a lokacin, Baron Hubert von Pantz, shine masoyin Chanel a cikin thirties, kuma komawarta zuwa kafa shekaru 20 bayan haka ya kasance mai matukar fa'ida.
"A cikin Fifties, ta dawo nan, ta yadda ta ga wannan jaket kuma wannan shine ainihin yadda aka haifi jaket na Chanel," Lagerfeld ya bayyana a ranar Litinin yayin da yake sanya abubuwan da aka gama a kan tarin. "Kuna kallon Chanel a cikin ashirin da talatin kuma babu wani abu kamar wannan."
Lagerfeld ya fito yana ɗauko sabbin nau'ikan jaket ɗin Chanel - da dusar ƙanƙara na riguna da rigunan riguna - yayin nunin titin jirgin sama guda uku a fadar Rococo Schloss Leopoldskron. Hotunan ya zazzage abubuwan Tyrolean na yau da kullun, waɗanda suka dace da zamani na zamani, zuwa matakin ƙirar duniya.
"An yi kyau sosai, yadda suke haɗa al'ada daga wani wuri na musamman tare da ruhun Chanel," in ji 'yar wasan kwaikwayo Àstrid Bergès-Frisbey. "Akwai neman kowace irin mace."
Kafin nunin, VIPs da editoci sun ɗauki hotuna na babban salon tare da murhu na marmara, baranda da aka yi da ƙarfe da wani filin da ke kallon wani tabki mai launin toka. Woodsmoke daga lambun ya leka cikin ɗakin, yana ƙara kayan ado na wintry na tebur mai cike da kukis, lemu masu ɗorewa da shirye-shiryen 'ya'yan itace masu tunawa da zane-zane na ƙarni na 17.
"Yana da kyau, kuma daki-daki sosai," in ji Bergès-Frisbey, wanda ke shirin yin aikinta na gaba, a matsayin Guinevere a cikin wani sabon salo na Guy Ritchie na "Knights of the Round Table."
"Muna fara yin fim a watan Fabrairu, galibi a Ingila," in ji ta. "Yana da matukar tsanani. Ina shiryawa."
'Yar wasan Jamus Mavie Hörbiger, wacce ke zaune a Ostiriya, ta ce mamayar Chanel wani lamari ne da ya dace: "Don yin salon a Salzburg, ba haka ba ne ga mutanen Austria."
Nunin Lagerfeld ya taimaka wajen kunna lokacin faɗuwar faɗuwar rana tare da ɗaukar hoto mai kyan gani a kan ra'ayin mazan jiya: Taurari Crystal suna kyalkyali a kan farar fata, cardigan na hauren giwa a cikin ulu mai dafa; edelweiss da aka yi wa ado a kan leggings na fata; da ribbons sun rikide zuwa manyan, ruffled hannayen riga a kan wani gata mai ban mamaki da aka yi da gashin fuka-fukai, wani nau'i na falconry da manyan 'yan Ostiriya na zamanin da.
"Yana da kyan gani da ita, a'a? Wannan shine mafi kusa da zaku iya zuwa dirndl, "in ji Lagerfeld yayin da Lara Stone ta shiga sanye da sanye da kayan sawa a cikin wata baƙar rigar taffeta mai walƙiya mai kama da atamfa mai gefuna cikin ruffles. “Ba na son ya yi kama da ‘Little House on the Prairie’” (Ko da yake daga baya za a iya leƙo asirin samfurin a gonar a kan igiyar igiya da aka rataye daga reshen bishiyar, ɗanta yana kururuwa da jin daɗin cinyarta. )
Hakanan akwai winks ga daular Austro-Hungary, kuma, Lagerfeld ya lura, lokacin da ƙarin trimming na yadin da aka saka, ruffles, da ribbons sun kasance a yanayin.
"Ina son ruhun," in ji mai zanen. "Ba na son yin wani abu na al'ada. Wannan ya fi fantasy. Dole ne ya zama na zamani, dole ne ya dace da yau, daidai gwargwado, komai."
Don sanin: An raunata wando na Heidi a cikin kunun kunne, yayin da aka fi fassara waɗancan breeches a matsayin guntun wando na denim, wanda aka dinka da suttura.
An buɗe nunin da jeri mai walƙiya, riguna masu kama da riguna tare da gyale mai gyale ko gyale. Lagerfeld ya yi amfani da irin wannan tasirin cape ga turtleneck sweaters, rigunan liyafa, tare da manyan riguna masu cike da ban mamaki da aka shimfida a cikin fitattun fuka-fukan.
Lagerfeld's ode zuwa Mitteleuropa yana yawo a tsakanin homespun - furannin allura daidai daga cikin hoop ɗin da aka ɗora inda aljihun Chanel ɗin da aka yi wa waƙa yakan zauna - don farashi mai kyau, kamar kyawawan wando na flannel tare da ratsan ƙwanƙwasa da lulluɓin shearlings masu ɗigon zinariya ko azurfa.
Rigar maraice ta kasance na musamman, tare da malam buɗe ido da fuka-fukan fuka-fukan da ke sauka akan shuɗin chiffon, da buɗaɗɗen hannayen bishop suna ƙara soyayya ga rigunan satin baƙar fata tare da ƙarar dirndl.
A lokacin da yake baka, Lagerfeld ya zare pretzel daga tebur ya mika wa Cara Delevingne, wacce ta ciji sannan ta rike ta sama kamar kwallon kafa bayan tabuka.
Kimanin 220 na mafi kyawun abokan ciniki na Chanel, ciki har da ɗimbin yawa daga Turai masu magana da Jamusanci, sun sauko kan wannan birni mai ban sha'awa, mai daraja don cibiyar tarihi, shimfidar tatsuniyoyi, wasan opera da fadoji kamar Leopoldskron.
“Yana da kyau sosai. Yana ɗaya daga cikin wuraren da na fi so a Turai. Ina son lambun Idan babu hazo za ku iya ganin tsaunuka," in ji Lagerfeld. Ya lura cewa shekaru 26 da suka wuce ya harbe wani kamfen na Chanel tare da samfurin Inès de la Fressange a fadar, daya daga cikin na farko ga gidan Faransa.
"Na kasance ina zuwa nan da yawa," in ji mai zanen. “Na yi hayar gidaje a wannan yanki. Ina son Salzburg, ina son wannan yanki. "
A ranar Litinin da daddare, baƙi sun halarci liyafar cin abincin dare a St. Peter Stiftskaller, wanda aka zayyana a matsayin gidan abinci mafi tsufa a Turai kuma ya shiga cikin gidan sufi. Kafin kowa ya zauna cin abinci bakwai wanda aka buɗe tare da tartare na fawn, dankalin turawa rösti da plum chutney, mai zanen ya fito da wani faifan bidiyo na mintuna bakwai wanda ke nuna mawaƙin “Mai Farin Ciki” Pharrell Williams a matsayin ɗan ƙaramin ɗalibi da Delevingne a matsayin ɗan wasa. reincarnation na Empress Elizabeth ta Ostiriya, wanda aka fi sani da Sissi.
"Shin za ta iya zama yarinyar da za ta taimake ni gani, ganin (CC) duniya," Williams croons a cikin wata asalin waƙar da ya rubuta a matsayin duet tare da samfurin, wanda ke shiga cikin wasan kwaikwayo da kiɗa.
Abubuwan jan hankali na gefen zaɓi a lokacin wannan balaguron Alpine sun haɗa da shahararrun kasuwannin Kirsimeti na Salzburg da kide-kide na kade-kade na shahararren ɗan birni, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.
Baƙi a wurin nunin salon sun bar tare da jakar jaka mai ɗauke da sake buga "Der Rosenkavalier," wasan opera mai ban dariya na Richard Strauss dangane da ainihin ma'anar libretto na Jamus na Hugo von Hofmannsthal, tare da fassarar turanci da babban fayil ɗin zane na Alfred Roller. na kayayyaki da saiti don samarwa na 1910.
Tun da yake jakadan al'adu, Lagerfeld har ma ya ba da baƙi don yin samfurin tire na abinci na gida, ciki har da Kaiserschmarren, wani yanki mai shredded mai suna bayan Sarkin Austriya Franz Joseph I, wanda Williams ya sake reincarnated a cikin fim ɗin da ke tare da shi.
"Ya kamata ku dandana shi: shine mafi kyawun abu a duniya," in ji mai zanen.
Tarin Métiers d'art, yana rufe ribar lambobi biyu, yana wakiltar ɓangaren kasuwancin Chanel mafi girma a yau, a cewar Bruno Pavlovsky, shugaban fashion na Chanel.
"Akwai abun ciki da yawa, kuma abokan cinikinmu suna son duk wannan tunanin a kusa da alamar," in ji shi. "Ba da daɗewa ba zai zama mafi ko žasa da mahimmanci ɗaya da tarin Oktoba ko Maris."
An gabatar da shi a cikin 2002 don ɗaukaka ƙwararrun ateliers Chanel, gami da ƙwararren masanin cashmere na Scotland Barrie da kamfanin tweed na Faransa A.C.T. 3, wanda aka bayyana sayayyar sa a ranar Litinin, tarin kayan fasaha na shekara-shekara yanzu yana goyan bayan kamfen ɗin sadaukarwa - na Salzburg shine ya ƙunshi Delevingne da Williams - kuma ana ɗaukarsa a cikin duka shagunan kamfani 189 na Faransa, da kuma a cikin kusan 100 zaɓi shagunan musamman.
Domin frothy tallace-tallace, Pavlovsky yaba da farkon isarwa - a tsakiyar watan Mayu zuwa Amurka da farko, biye da Turai da kuma Asia zuwa tsakiyar watan Yuni - da kuma karfi labari a baya tarin, kowane kawo rayuwa wani sabon babi a cikin m sana'a. sunan gidan. Chanel ya yi tafiya zuwa Dallas, Shanghai, Edinburgh da Tokyo don yin faretin sabon layin.
"Abokan cinikinmu, sun saba ganin sabbin silhouettes da sabbin abubuwa a cikin kantin kowane wata biyu," in ji Pavlovsky. "Kowace lokaci, akwai abubuwa da yawa da za a ce game da rayuwarta - na gaske da kuma na tunani. Wannan abun ciki shine don gina Chanel na gobe. "
An yi hira da shi a cikin ɗakin da aka yi da katako wanda ke kallon tafkin da ya kasance ofishin Max Reinhardt, sanannen darektan gidan wasan kwaikwayo kuma wanda ya kafa bikin Salzburg, Pavlovsky ya lura cewa a shirye don sawa shine mafi girma samfurin samfurin a Chanel, kuma wanda aka gyara. da kuma manyan shagunan, duk na masanin injiniya Peter Marino, shine don ɗaukar manyan zaɓen na salon.
Kwanan nan Chanel ya sake ƙaura kantin Vienna, wurin zama na Ostiriya kawai, saboda wannan dalili, kuma kwanan nan ya yi irin wannan a Hamburg da Frankfurt. Dusseldorf yana gaba.
Yayin da kewayon Métiers d'art ya tura farashin zuwa sabbin yankuna - riguna na iya tafiya cikin sauƙi har zuwa $25,000 - Pavlovsky ya lura cewa akwai abubuwa masu araha kuma. "Ba batun farashin ba ne, ya fi game da darajar waɗannan samfuran," in ji shi.
Da aka tambaye shi ko tarin zane-zane na Métiers d'a - wanda galibi ya yi wahayi daga wani yanki kamar Rasha, Indiya, ko Turkiyya - yana jin daɗi a cikin waɗancan kasuwanni, Pavlovsky ya amsa: “Gaskiya, ba ma bincika. Labarin Dallas ya kasance mai ƙarfi a China da Japan kamar yadda yake a Amurka. "
Duk da haka kasancewar Lagerfeld a Ostiriya, labarai na gaba a cikin takardu da suka haɗa da Salzburger Nachtrichten da Kronen Zeitung, da tarin Chanel ɗinsa tabbas sun shahara da salon saye da al'adun yankin.
Lagerfeld, wanda ya ba da kyautar loden blazer a lokacin zamansa, ya kira wata magana daga baya: "Tsarin zamani suna zuwa su tafi, amma lederhosen zai kasance koyaushe."
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