LONDON, 9 GA JANAIRU, 2016
by ALEXANDER FURY
Sanin su, sun ce, yana haifar da raini. Don haka menene gestate ɗin da ba a sani ba, a cikin kwakwalwar ƙirƙira? Sha'awa, watakila. Stuart Vevers tabbas da alama yana sha'awar sabon haƙoransa a Kocin 1941, HQ ɗinsa ya haye saman Babban Layi a tsakiyar birnin New York. Akwai abin al'ajabi mai faɗin ido, rungumar ɗan Amurka da zuciya ɗaya a cikin aikinsa. Dole ne duk ya zama kamar mafarki ga wani yaro daga Yorkshire wanda ya kuskura ya yi tunani babba.
Wannan shine zanen Vevers a matsayin yokel mai laushi, amma tarin Coach 1941 yana wasa da sauri da karfin gwiwa tare da archetypes na Amurka ta hanyar da mai zanen Amurka ba zai taɓa yin ƙoƙari ba. A bayyane yake yana sha'awar sabon gidansa, don haka bayan wasan kwaikwayo na bazara da aka keɓe ga Andy Warhol (ko za a iya samun ƙarin ɗan wasan Amurka?), Ya sadaukar da tarinsa na Fall 2016 ga kiɗan Amurka, zuwa ƙarshen-'70s hip-hop, da Bruce Springsteen .
Sauti kamar bakon dusa: Fab 5 Freddy da The Boss? Yawanci yana bayyana ta cikin dabaru na na'urorin haɗi, irin su Haihuwar A Amurka bandanas ɗin da aka ɗaure a wuya da hips, ko hulunan bokiti masu zurfi sun ja da ƙasa a fuska. Wasu 'yan jaket a cikin facin fata na launin ruwan kasa iri-iri sun kasance a cikin shekarun 70s, amma in ba haka ba abin da Vevers ya nuna shi ne tarin kayan sawa na maza, irin na rigunan katako, riguna, jakunkuna, da battered Perfectos waɗanda mutanen (da kaɗan). 'yan mata) sun riga sun shiga cikin ɗakunan su. Tabbas, kaɗan daga cikin ledar sun yi kama da an yayyage jaket ɗin rabin dozin an ɗinke su a cikin na zamani, wanda ba a taɓa ganin irinsa ba. Sun kasance aiki da yawa, amma sun sami rauni suna bayyana kyawawan asali.
Wanda shine yanke shawara mai kyau. Vevers yayi magana game da ra'ayi na "jarumta mai launin shuɗi" a cikin wannan tarin; Na ci gaba da tunanin yadda tsohon-tsare yake ga alama don sanye da wayo, kaya masu wayo wanda da alama “an ƙirƙira”.
Ya kasance nama-da-dankali, riguna masu launin shuɗi-masu mahimmanci, kayan yau da kullun, lambobin, duk abin da kuke son sanyawa su - cewa Vevers yana da sha'awar gaske a wannan lokacin: Archetypes shine zaɓaɓɓen sunansa: “Shirt mai sanyi, jakar witty , da kuma sneaker da aka zuga - abin da ke burge ni a yau, kuma ga saurayi. Wannan na iya zama alatu.” Cool wata kalma ce da Vevers ke sha'awar, kuma - ra'ayi ne na Amurkawa, ya tashi a cikin' 40s, lokacin da aka kafa Coach (lakabin yana murna da ranar haihuwar 75th a wannan shekara) kuma lokacin da ra'ayin matashin ya fara farawa. a matsayin al'ada touchstone. Kuma tufafin Vevers a yau sun dubi, a sauƙaƙe, sanyi. Jaket masu sanyi, riguna masu sanyi, santsin sa hannun alamar sa hannu mai juyi riguna masu sheki—“Sigar Jawonmu”—wanda ƙarar ɗanɗanon-wuzzy dandelion-fluff mai banƙyama ya nuna alamar nunin. Vevers yana ba da tabbacin waɗanda ke siyar da su da zarar sun buga ƙasa. Sun kasance masu kyau, kamar sauran waɗannan tufafi, ko da yake ba za su motsa maƙasudin maƙasudin kasuwanci na salon ba.
Kada kuma su yi burinsu. Abubuwan alatu masu dacewa shine wasan da Kocin yake ciki, amma, ga Vevers, samun dama ba kawai kuɗi ba ne amma kyakkyawa. Tufafin Kocinsa bebane-amma bebaye da wayo. Nassosi kowa zai iya fahimta, a cikin tufafi kowa zai iya samu, a akida da kuma bayansa. Mai zanen ya faɗo a rigar gargantuan, ya zazzage shi ga GhostbustersStay Puft Marshmallow Man, ya ce, yana dariya: "Na ga mutane suna sanye da irin wannan a NYC!" Na kasance a can a watan Fabrairu don Makon Kasuwanci, don haka na yarda. Idan akwai wani adalci a duniya, wannan tarin yana nufin Vevers zai ga yawancin abokan ciniki sun fadi-kuma za su kasance suna ɗauke da alamar Kocin.