James Long Fall / Winter 2016 London

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James Long FW 2016 London (1)

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James Long FW 2016 London

LONDON, JANAIRU 10, 2016

by ALEXANDER FURY

Tufafin James Long wani ɗanɗano ne da aka yanke shawara. Akwai maza a cikin ’yan’uwansa masu son Lurexes, rigunan riguna masu fenti, rigunan rigunan riguna da damisa masu goga. Wadanda flamboyant dawakai ne ba kawai Long ta m abokan ciniki amma ya yi wahayi zuwa ga Fall 2016. "Local heroes," ya kira su, ambaci mutane kamar lafiya-artist Eddie Peake, wanda aikinsa sau da yawa ya ƙunshi lurid launuka, vaguely scatological slogans, da kuma yalwa da tsiraici. -ya gudanar da wasan kwallon kafa tsirara biyar a lokacin da yake karatu a Royal Academy. A bayyane yake, lokacin da aka yi ado, Peake yana sa Doguwa. Wa'azi ga waɗanda suka tuba? Sannan wasu.

"Lokacin da akwai abubuwa da yawa game da su, na yanke shawarar duba mutanen da a zahiri suke sa tufafina," in ji Long, bayan faretin da, ya danganta da ra'ayin ku, yana daɗaɗawa, ko kuma murna kawai; m, ko na marmari. Akwai kuri'a na zaren ƙarfe, da yadin da aka saka, da na kifi, da kuma manyan ɗimbin launi na psychotropic kamar yadda poppy opiate waɗanda suka bunƙasa azaman kwafi da suturar intarsias. Ƙunƙarar belt an juye su cikin wardi mai girman guduro mai girma uku. Gashi ya maiko baya, idanun sun sha kyalkyali, takalman hawan maraƙi na Christian Louboutin sun zo da ratsi kala-kala suna kyalli. Ya kasance, yana da kyau a ce, cikakke.

Jigogi na aikin Peake - haduwar da batsa - suna jin kamar sun hadu da sartorial wasan su a Dogon. A cikin yanayin yanayin rabuwar kai, sutura guda ɗaya, kun kasance kuna son kallon aikin Long ba a matsayin “kallo” ba, amma a matsayin mutum ɗaya, ƙayyadaddun kayan aikin da za a iya cirewa daga gaba ɗaya mai ƙarfi don yin aiki a cikin tufafin wani. mutum baya cikin ƙwaƙƙwaran ƙwaƙƙwaran masu ƙirƙira na (gaba ɗaya Gabashin London).

Amma za ku dame? Batun tare da kyan gani kamar Long's shine cewa yana iya zama damuwa da nisantar da mai kallo na yau da kullun. Shin za ku dakata don yin tafiya ta hanyar dogo na jean ɗin da aka yi wa pigment plastered a cikin chartreuse da jan alkyabba don nemo jaket ɗin tuxedo mai ƙarami ko, watakila, wando siriri, marar lahani? Ko kawai kaje wani wuri da ɗan sauƙin narkewa?

Dogon yana ɗaya daga cikin masu zanen kaya na maza. Shi ne sabon shugaban tufafin maza a lakabin Iceberg na Italiyanci, wanda alamun kasuwanci masu ban sha'awa da ban sha'awa suka dace da shi sosai. "Ban so in maimaita kaina," in ji Long. "Wannan shine gyara mahimman abubuwan da nake so." Dogon tabbas yana son kaya da yawa. Gyara kadan, abin mamaki, da an yi nisa.

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