LONDON, JANAIRU 10, 2016
by NICK REMSEN
Jeremy Scott's Moschino yana da ban sha'awa, amma abin sha'awa ba makawa. Alamar sa ta barkwanci ita ce Pop-ier, wackier, mafi sukari fiye da na Franco, amma wannan ba mara kyau ba ne: Scott mai zane ne wanda ya bugi idon bijimin abubuwan kallon-a-ni na zamani. Duk abin da ya nuna ana iya yin Snapchatted ko Instagrammed sosai ba tare da jinkiri ba. Tarin da ya bayyana a daren yau, a cikin majami'ar Mayfair, ya kasance a sarari kamar yadda aka saba, duk da haka akwai wayo a bayyane, godiya ga gudummawar haɗin gwiwa daga masu fasahar agitprop na Burtaniya Gilbert & George.
Scott ya ce: “Ina so in yi tufafi masu yawa, don haka na sha shayi da su. “Kuma yayin da nake gaya musu ra’ayina game da tarin, sai suka ce, ‘Me ya sa ba za ku ɗauka daga tarihinmu ba?’ Don haka daga gicciye zuwa kan kawunansu zuwa taken [waɗanda suka bayyana cikin sauri da fushi a kusan komai] an yi su. abubuwa masu ban al'ajabi da yawa da na sami damar haɗawa." A bayyane yake, zane-zane masu launi na G&G sun sake haifar da wani tsunami mai chromatic a cikin kwakwalwar Scott ta koyaushe - tarin Fallasa bakan gizo ne a cikin magunguna, rave-y neon, daidai da fentin kunnuwa da coifs. (Abin da ke kewaye da sujada ya tuna da Limelight, gidan wasan kwaikwayo na Manhattan na 90s wanda kuma yake a cikin coci, kuma wasu daga cikin wadanda suka hana Scott ado.) Denim yana da maganin fenti, tare da folds da seams (tunanin trompe l). 'Oeil sawa da clubkids casa'in. Dokta Martens-takalman takalma masu ban sha'awa, masu yankewa waɗanda ke aiki kamar yadda aka gayyata nunin, sun sami rubutu iri ɗaya. Hakanan an yi aiki da ratsin jami'a tun da wuri, ko dai a cikin gyale ko sigar riga, ana ba da rancen wani abu mai ban mamaki.
A wata hanya - kuma wannan dangi ne idan aka yi la'akari da rashin tausayi na Scott - akwai kuma jinin jini a cikin tufafi. "Yawancin siffofi suna da sauƙi, kuma na yi aiki mai yawa," in ji shi. "Kusan kamar tufafin da aka haɗa-kamar saƙa mai sutura tare da hannayen riga MA-1." Hakanan ana iya danganta haɗin gwiwa ga Gilbert & George: Jourdan Dunn-wanda ya yi tafiya a matsayin wani ɓangare na Pre-Fall na mata na Moschino, wanda aka nuna a lokaci guda-ya sa jaket ɗin jirgin sama mai lullubi tare da saƙan panel saƙa a baya da rigunan hannu mai taken taken. (A wani wuri kuma, babban misali na wannan shine SPUNK, wanda ke gefen shins na jeans). Lucky Blue Smith ya buɗe kuma ya rufe wasan kwaikwayon a cikin Lisa Frank brights, amma silhouette da sauran sassa da yawa sun kasance a bayyane: kwat da wando a gaba, da rami don zagaye shi.
Tare da Neneh Cherry, Noomi Rapace, Sa'a, Jourdan, har ma da Taboo daga Black Eyed Peas a hannu, Scott, yawanci, ya kawo ɗan shahara da walƙiya zuwa in ba haka ba tarin London Tarin: Maza. Kuma so ko a'a, wannan babban sashi ne na kunshin nasa, wani nau'i ne na musamman na Pop, da almubazzaranci don jin daɗi. Kamar yadda wasan karshe ya taka, remix na Michel Gaubert na "Kamar Addu'a" na Madonna ya shigo cikin-kuma a layin, "kowa ya tsaya shi kadai," ba za ku iya yin murmushi ba. Scott shi kaɗai ne kerkeci tabbas, amma maganadisu yana nufin koyaushe zai sami fakitin ja.