MILAN, 17 GA JANAI, 2016
by ALEXANDER FURY
Alama kalma ce da aka wuce gona da iri a cikin al'adun zamani, ba kawai a cikin salo ba. Yana cikin jujjuyawar halin yanzu don kwatanta komai daga hamburger zuwa wando guda biyu. A waje da Fall 2016 Calvin Klein Collection show, dubban 'yan mata masu kururuwa sun rera sunan Cameron Dallas, wani abin mamaki a kan layi. "Shine gunkinmu," daya daga cikinsu ta ce hawaye na bin fuskarta. Babu wanda a cikin fashion fraternity da alama ya ji labarinsa, kuma ba za mu iya gane abin da ya yi. Ya kasance Warholian sosai.
Wannan shine abu game da gumaka; babu da yawa da kowa zai iya yarda da su. Italo Zucchelli yana da fiye da 'yan kaɗan a wurinsa a Calvin Klein, ko da yake-tufafi-hikima, waistband ɗin da aka yi wa alama da kuma na farko na zane-zane na denims na farko a duniya ya yi girma; akwai kuma wa]anda aka yi wa fatalwa, tona, da masu sanye da tufafin da Bruce Weber ya mutu, irin mutanen da wa]annan ’yan matan suka yi kururuwa shekaru 20 da suka wuce. Nailan da aka lalata a cikin zinari, platinum, da fure-fure-zinare sun tsara fuskoki da jikin takwarorinsu na wannan zamani, samfuran buffed waɗanda ke yin nunin Calvin Klein ya bambanta da kowane abu a cikin kayan maza. Ba zan iya taimakawa ba sai tunanin sun yi kama da gumakan Katolika na kyawawan tsarkaka masu kyan gani. Amma watakila hakan bai kasance da gangan ba.
Zucchelli ya gina tarinsa a wannan karon akan wani gunki: rigar mutumin. "Ina so in nuna ikon duniya na tela na maza," in ji shi. Ya yanke shawarar yin hakan ta hanyar sanya suturar mazansa a kan mata a karon farko - samfurin ƙarfin hali irin na Mariacarla Boscono, Iselin Steiro, Jessica Miller, da Gemma Ward. Ba daidai ba ne Linda, Christy, Claudia, da Naomi, amma na farko hudu, suna da ma'anar ganewa nan take. "Yana da na sha'awa, jima'i," in ji Zucchelli na waɗancan suturar Calvin, waɗanda maza da mata suke sawa a jikin fata. An yanke su da kyau-wani lokaci kuma daidai ba ku fahimci yadda suka gina ƙirar tsoka cikin girman Superman ba. Ba wai ba a riga an ba su kyauta ta dabi'a ba: Yana buƙatar nau'in mutum na musamman don yin kyau a cikin CK-waistbanded dogayen riga-kafin-kamar tufafin waje wanda ke ƙasan jaket ɗin kwat da wando a ƙarshen wasan kwaikwayon. Dukanmu mun san abin da hakan ke nufi.
Sauyi, ko da yake, jigo ne mai ban sha'awa a cikin salon-kuma musamman a nan Klein. Zucchelli ya canza denim zuwa jacquard, wanda aka saƙa da ƙwaƙƙwaran saƙa a cikin trompe l'oeil na lalacewa da hawaye na yau da kullun, yana mai da kullun yau da kullun. Zucchelli ya fara amfani da wannan jean jacquard don bazara-don haka ba su da abin mamaki na ban mamaki. Ditto the foiling, wanda ya kasance mai tunawa da takamaiman tarin Helmut Lang. Babu wanda aka lalata. Alchemy shi ne abin da Zucchelli ya jefar da shi - a fili, wani abu ne da yake sha'awar shi sosai, kuma yana da ɗakin karatu mai cike da littattafai game da batun. Ya ba da ma'ana, duka a matsayin wahayi mai ban mamaki a bayan duk nailan na ƙarfe, yana haɓaka tasirin gani na anoraks masu amfani da jaket na MA1; kuma watakila na gaban layi na gaban mai ban mamaki Dallas. Binciken bincike mai zurfi ya tabbatar da cewa an canza shi zuwa al'adun gargajiya ta platinum ta hanyar ilimin kimiyyar kafofin watsa labarun na ƙarni na 21 (a fili, shi ƙwararren mai amfani ne na dandalin sada zumunta na Vine).
Shin Zucchelli yayi alchemize zinariya daga Klein da wannan tarin? Ba sosai ba. Karatuttukan sun yi slick, amma ana iya aiki; An kama masu ƙarfe na ƙarfe, amma sun ji an iyakance su ga edita. Babu isassun ainihin alamar alamar Klein, ko dai. Gabaɗaya, Zucchelli ya gabatar da wani wasan kwaikwayo wanda ke da tsayayyen azurfa, sanye cikin baƙar kwat da wando.