MILAN, 18 GA JANAI, 2016
by ALEXANDER FURY
Muna magana har abada game da falsafar salon zamani, game da buri na shigar da tufafi a cikin faffaɗar tushe mai ƙarfi na ilimi. Ee, eh, dama, jaket ne. Amma me ake nufi?
Falsafar fashion ta Gucci-kamar yadda yake tare da mafi yawan komai a cikin duniyar Gucci—an tayar da hankali a cikin watanni 12 da suka gabata, tun lokacin da aka nada darektan kirkire-kirkire Alessandro Michele. Basta zuwa sexy, zuwa slick hangover na shekarun daukaka Tom Ford. Tufafin Gucci ya bambanta, don haka tunanin da ke bayan su dole ne ya bambanta kuma. Gucci a yau yana nassoshi da ƙwaƙƙwaran masana falsafa kamar masanin ra'ayin Marxist Walter Benjamin, wanda aka yi nuni da shi kamar maƙalar da aka haɗa tare. Bayan fage, Alessandro Michele ya ja a rigar Aertex, mai ɗauke da hoton Snoopy. "Ka sani," in ji shi, "Snoopy kamar masanin falsafa ne." Murmushi yayi.
Falsafar Gucci a yau tana zaune a wani wuri tsakanin Walter Benjamin da Snoopy, tsakanin highbrow da ƙananan al'adu. Cewa kuna tunani da kanku ba tare da ƙwaƙƙwaran ku ba ya isa na canzawa daga Gucci na yore, wanda yake sexy da '70s, kuma ba safai ba wani abu. Benjamin yayi hasashe ga ƙarshe cewa masu nasara sun rubuta tarihi - wanda shine mabuɗin, ina tsammanin, don fahimtar abin da Gucci ke ciki a halin yanzu. Na ɗan lokaci, mun ga Gucci na nasara ne kawai na Ford; sai na Frida Giannini. Yanzu, Michele. Ana maimaita tarihi, amma kuma an sake rubutawa kaɗan.
Abin da tarin Gucci na maza na Fall 2016 ya yi shine sake karanta ƙasa da Michele ke rufewa a cikin shekarar da ta gabata. Ya inganta shi, kadan, amma game da sake tabbatar da sabon jagoran gidan. Wanda, idan mun kasance masu gaskiya, ba sabon abu bane. Sabon gyara ne na rubutun da ke akwai. Wani sabon abu ne a ma'anar cewa salon akai-akai shine - farfado da lokacin da ya bambanta da wanda ya gabace shi nan da nan. Baudrillard ya taɓa ambata shi a matsayin haɓakar haɗuwa da sake amfani da su. Gucci bai nakalto shi ba, tukuna.
Abin da aka ambata shine shekarun 70s. "'Yan shekarun 70 shine hoto mafi ƙarfi, a gare ni, don alamar," in ji Michele. "Tambarin yana da rai - kuma ruhinsa shine ainihin lokacin 70s." Abin ban mamaki, sai ya kira shi "jet-set," wanda shine abu na ƙarshe da kuke tunani game da lokacin da kuka ga siliki na siliki da brocades na Michele, kodayake kwat da wando da gangan suna kama da wani ya kwana a cikinsu akan ja-ido.
Su, ba shakka, guda ɗaya ne kawai na waɗannan hadaddun, tarin tarin Gucci masu rikitarwa-wanda aka nuna tare da saƙa na Lurex, suttukan fata na maciji, diddige da lu'ulu'u, da tabarau na lu'u-lu'u. Yawan kayan ado wanda zai aiko muku da rubutun don yin rikodin duka. Ba wanda zai sa shi - aƙalla, ba a cikin wannan babban abin ba. Amma kowa da kowa zai iya shiga da kuma dangantaka da shi. Wadannan tarin an tsara su don raba su ta hanyar masu amfani da su, abubuwan nuna salon salo a matsayin shawara mai jan hankali na guda maimakon kama-karya, ban sha'awa. Babu wani abu mara kyau tare da na ƙarshe, ba shakka. Amma a lokacin, kuma babu wani abu mara kyau game da tsarin Gucci. Ya bambanta kawai. Falsafa daban, sabuwar hanyar kallon abubuwa.
Yana da, duk da haka, mugun Gucci, kuma na ƙwarai Italiyanci. "Kadan Schiaparelli," in ji Michele, tana yatsin idon lu'u-lu'u a wani yanki guda. "Ina tunanin Walter Albini," in ji wani. Babu masu zanen Italiya waɗanda nan da nan suke tsalle a hankali. "Akwai stereotype na Italiyanci, na gidaje kamar Gucci," in ji Michele cikin tunani. "Muna da fiye da yadda mutane suke tunani. Ina da abubuwa da yawa a raina daga ma'ajiyar bayanai, amma ba na son zama fursuna na tarihin. Kullum shine 'ra'ayin' da nake da shi na tarihin. . .” Tunanin ƙwaƙwalwar ajiya, maimakon ainihin tarihin. Kuma Gucci kwanakin nan ba shi da bango-marasa jinsi, rashin yanayi, na yau da kullun da gauraye. Yana da game da 'yanci. Kuma wannan shine, ina tsammanin, dalilin da ya sa mutane da yawa suna ganin yana ƙarfafawa, kuma sun yi watsi da watakila gaskiyar cewa, a matsayin tufafi na mutum, Michele yana ba da kyauta ba ƙirƙira ba amma sake farfadowa, farkawa, da sakewa.
"Dauke shi, sanya shi naku," in ji Michele. Yana magana da ni, game da tufafi. Zai iya magana da kansa, game da Gucci.