PARIS, JANAIRU 21, 2016
by ALEXANDER FURY
Kowace kakar, da alama akwai dozin ko makamancin tarin abubuwan Issey Miyake waɗanda mu, manema labarai, ba za mu iya gani ba. Suna karkatar da tasirin babban layi akai-akai zuwa gyare-gyare masu gamsarwa. Suna yin fale-falen da yawa, wanda galibi ana san su sosai, kuma waɗanda akai-akai suna cika yawancin shagunan su.
Yana iya zama saniya tsabar kuɗi, amma matsala tare da wani abu mai girma kamar yadda Miyake ke jin daɗin jin daɗi - kuma, a faɗin gaskiya, wani abu akai-akai kuma wasu masu zanen kaya ke ambaton ku - shine kuna gajiya. A matsayin mai zane kuma a matsayin mai kallo. Don haka, yadda za a yi gwaji ba tare da ƙetare ba? Yadda ake ba da sabon abu ba tare da rasa ainihin ku ba? Wannan shine batun Issey Miyake mai tsara kayan sawa na maza Yusuke Takahashi yana magance kowane yanayi.
Gabaɗaya, Takahashi ya ƙi yarda - wanda shine shawara mai hikima. Maimakon haka, ya samo tarin tarin kayan maza na gidan a cikin fasahar masana'anta da kuma jin dadi-da'a na pleats, ba tare da nadawa ba. Don Fall, ya kira wasan kwaikwayon Neonomad, wani gungu na ciyawar ciyayi a kusa da titin jirgin sama yana ba da ƙarancin baƙo. Ya ɗan ji ɗan spaghetti na Yamma, musamman a kan simintin gine-gine na Palais de Tokyo, cibiyar farar hula ta Faransa da sunan Jafananci. Yaya abin tafiya yake?
Tufafin da kansu sun samo asali ne daga al'adu daban-daban - tsohon salon cliché na wasan yawo 'nuna haɗaɗɗen saƙa na Mongolian, hawan doki, ƴan riguna da siket na maza, da wando na nannade sarouel, gajeriyar gani ga m. Abun "neo" ya zo ta cikin fasahar tufafin da aka ambata a baya, a cikin saƙan gashin doki na Takahashi ko yadudduka da aka kwatanta da mara-ƙara, mai daidaita tsari, mai aiki, nauyi, mai wankewa, mara ƙarfe. Duk abubuwan da rayuwar yau da kullun za ta iya buƙatar sutura—cututtukan tafiye-tafiye na zamani, da aka warware su gaba ɗaya.
Ban tabbata ba shine mafi kyawun taƙaitawa ta jarring jacquards na takalman dawakai (ƙarin Yammacin Turai) waɗanda zane-zanen su yayi kama da ko dai Ettore Sottsass's ɗanɗanon ɗanɗano ko kuma sitcom ɗin sitcom na 80s matashin sitcom wanda Bell ya ceci, ya danganta da haɓakar ido. Na zauna tare da na karshen. Gajerun wando na zagayawa masu saurin tafiya cikin takaitattun saƙa suma balaguron tashi ne (na Fall, kowa?). Amma mai daukar hoto Kenji Hirasawa mai daukar hoto mai daukar hoto na thermochromic, wanda aka buga da karfin gwiwa a kan tufafin Takahashi, ya ba su ba kawai tashin hankali na psychotropic ba, amma ma'anar rayayyun ɗan adam a ƙasa. Jikinsu, tabbas, amma kuma buƙatun su, ta hanyar zane. Wanda ya kasance a zuciyar wannan tarin ban sha'awa.