Tarin Gudun Maza na Saint Laurent 2022

Anonim

Venice a cikin duniyar da ta sake fitowa, idan zai yiwu, ta fi ban al'ajabi fiye da kowane lokaci, tare da kallon dabbar dolphins a cikin lanada da kuma 'yan yawon bude ido kaɗan a kusa da su don burge su. Cikin nasara, kwanan nan aka ayyana waccan tafki mai rauni a matsayin abin tarihi na kasa, kuma a lokaci guda gwamnatin Italiya a karshe ta ba da sanarwar dakatar da jiragen ruwa masu cike da cece-kuce da suka mamaye birnin yayin da ake ganin ba zai kawo masa wata fa'ida ta kudi ba.

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Tare da layin iska na birni da piazzas babu komai, har ma da rumfuna a cikin Giardini, (bayar da ƙonawa na ƙasa don Venice Architecture Biennale haɗin kai a ƙarƙashin taken Yaya Za Mu Zauna Tare?) Ba daidai ba ne ya mamaye baƙi da baƙi, rundunar sojojin siririyar wraiths. , masu zane-zane, da ɗabi'a, da kuma yawo a kewayen filin fable na birnin, da alama ma sun fi fitowa fili.

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Waɗannan sun tabbatar da su ne samfura da gumaka na Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent, a cikin gari don yin tafiya, takawa, karkata, da zazzage titin jirgin sama a cikin tarin ƙwaƙƙwaran ƙirƙira (kodayake bambancin jiki, da alama, bai riga ya zama wani ɓangare na tattaunawar ba. a cikin daular maza).

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Dangane da abin da birnin ke da shi a halin yanzu game da yuwuwar gine-gine, Vaccarello ya haɗu tare da mai zane-zane da mai yin fim Doug Aitken (wanda ya ci lambar yabo ta ƙasa da ƙasa a 1999 Venice Biennale) akan yanayi don nuna tarinsa.

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Aitken ya ƙirƙira Green Lens, wani tsari mai ban mamaki mai fuskar madubi wanda aka taru cikin wata ɗaya akan Isola della Certosa, kuma an dasa shi da ciyawar daji mai zafi. Yana aiki azaman martani ga tambayar da Biennale ya gabatar, cikin jituwa tare da haɗa yanayin gaba tare da yanayin yanayi.

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"Dukkan Saint Laurent Na kasance koyaushe ina yin kaina ta wata hanya," in ji Vaccarello, a wurin liyafar cin abincin sihiri da aka saita a cikin rufaffen rufaffiyar tsohuwar tsarin bulo a tsibirin, "don haka yana da kyau a raba wani abu. ra'ayi a karon farko tare da mai zane wanda nake sha'awar gaske, kuma yana da daɗi. Ya kamata wannan tunanin ya kasance don nunin mata a bara, "in ji Vaccarello, "kuma saboda annobar da muka tura ta zuwa yanzu. A ƙarshe ya ba da ma'ana don samun shi a Venice fiye da Paris, musamman tare da Architecture Biennale-kuma tare da wannan tarin, wanda shine haɗuwa da tasirin tasirin Saint Laurent da yawa na Venetian 'New Romanticism.' Ba haka bane. sanya su cikin tarihi, hanyar Venetian na gargajiya, amma a cikin yanayi na gaba. Ina tsammanin bayan COVID kuna son duban gaba fiye da na baya-kuma ina son wannan cakuda abubuwan da suka gabata a cikin nassoshi a cikin tufafi, da kuma gaba a cikin saitin. "

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A lokacin nunin da aka yi cikin sauri tsarin ya nuna shuɗiyar sama, hasken faɗuwar rana, da ruwan kogin ruwa yayin da hasken Aitken ya canza yanayi daga lokaci zuwa lokaci, yana ba da shawara ta hanyar jujjuya faɗuwar rana ko alfijir na Scandinavian shuɗi mai haske. A cikin waɗancan madubin, ƙabilar Vaccarello sun zazzage cikin rigunan riguna masu ƙwanƙwasa ko ɗigon rigunan sata (tunanin Adam Ant da farkon 1980s New Romantics na Biritaniya), da wando mai sigari tare da takalman ƙafar ƙafar ƙafar ƙyallen ƙafar ƙafar ƙafar ƙafar ƙafar ƙafa.

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A cikin wani lokaci na jujjuya lamunin rigunan mata marasa ƙarewa daga tufafin maza na gargajiya, Vaccarello kuma ya ji daɗin binciko wuraren tarihin Saint Laurent mara misaltuwa na suturar mata waɗanda maza za su iya tsarawa, gami da jacquard crepe de chine rigunan mata da riguna daga farkon shekarun 70s. , Jaket ɗin toreador da aka yanke da sencers daga tarin Saint Laurent's Picasso (Fall 1979) da Jazz (Spring 1978) tarin, da kuma bolero mai ƙyalli daga tarin Sinawa (Fall 1977) da aka sake tunanin a matsayin mai fashewa da sawa da baƙar fata jeans, da kuma lamba Bambance-bambance a kan Le Shan taba. Vaccarello ya kuma lura cewa "akwai abubuwa da yawa da suka fito daga tarin mata na da suka gabata - wanda ya kasance mai dorewa a ƙarshe," in ji shi, "kamar duk rigunan yadin da aka saka, guda biyu ko uku da suka wuce."

A cikin girmamawa ga birni mai masaukin baki, akwai wasan kwaikwayo na carnival na Venetian suma a cikin wasan kwaikwayo na ban mamaki, ciki har da ɗayan siliki mai haske mai launin rawaya wanda ya haifar da misali mara kyau da aka nuna a cikin nunin faifan haute na Saint Laurent's Fall 1983, (kuma daga baya ɗan zamantakewa Nan Kempner ya girgiza shi a Kaya. Cibiyar gala da ta yi bikin mai zane). "Ina tsammanin abin farin ciki ne ganin yadda saurayi zai iya ɗauka," in ji Vaccarello na shawarwarin ruwa na jinsi, "Kuma dole ne in ce sun ɗauka a zahiri, [ko] rigar yadin da aka saka, ko takalman dandamali."

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