A farkon wannan shekara, Gidauniyar Robert Mapplethorpe ta tuntubi Raf Simons. Sun tambaye shi ko yana so yayi aiki da su akan wani abu. Yace eh. Wannan shi ne ɗan gajeren labarin labarin da ya gabatar a Pitti Immagine Uomo, wanda ya yi daidai da duo na nunin Mapplethorpe a LACMA da Gidan Tarihi na Getty, da shirin HBO mai taken Dubi Hotuna. Lokaci ya yi da ya dace. Kuma Simons dan wasan Mapplethorpe ne, don haka ya kasance mawallafin da ya dace. "An karrama ni," in ji Simons bayan wasan kwaikwayonsa, muryarsa tana girgiza da motsin rai. Don haka ya ɓoye ra'ayin da yake aiki a kai don tarin (ba zai bayyana abin da yake ba; yana iya, in ji shi, ya fito a cikin wani wasan kwaikwayo na baya) kuma ya fara haɗin gwiwar sabon zane-zane.
Yawanci, lokacin da Simons ke aiki tare da mai fasaha, ya kusance su. A wannan karon, kuzarin ya ɗan canza kaɗan. Karimci na Mapplethorpe Foundation tayin yana nunawa a cikin karimcin fassarar Simons: Babu wani kaya a cikin Simons's Spring 2017 wanda ba ya nuna hoton hoto na Mapplethorpe. Samfurinsa na maza masu gashin gashi, tare da rigunan riguna na fata masu lalata, galibi suna da kamanceceniya da mai daukar hoto da kansa - ko da yake Simons ya bayyana cewa, maimakon masu zanen doppelgängers, "kowane yaro wakilci ne na wani yanki." Kowane na iya zama Mapplethorpe sitter. Rigunan riguna suna da inuwar shahararren gidan kayan gargajiya na Mapplethorpe Patti Smith akan murfin album ɗinta. Robert Sherman, wani abin ƙira wanda alopecia ya sanya fatarsa kimani marmara a cikin ɗimbin hotunansa da Mapplethorpe ya harba, shi ma ya halarci wasan kwaikwayon. Simons dole ne ya share haƙƙin ɓangare na uku tare da duk masu zama kafin su sake fitar da hotunan su. Ya fara tattaunawa wanda ya haifar da nutsewa a bangaren Simons a cikin aikin Mapplethorpe.
Da aka ce, mai zane ya zauna wa kansa da yawa. Mapplethorpe wani hali ne mai ban sha'awa, kuma fasaha ba ta iya rabuwa da mutumin. "Idan kuna tunani game da aikin, yana da yawa game da shi," in ji Simons, kuma, hakika, yana da yawa game da tufafin da ya sa, kuma. A kan tafiya na jima'i na gano kansa, yawancin hotuna na farko na Mapplethorpe sune Polaroid kai tsaye, wanda aka dogara da kayan fata, gwada iyakokin jin dadi da zafi. Daga baya, ya rubuta nasa tayin jima'i; yanayin fata da BDSM galibi. Tufafi wani abu ne mai mahimmanci: A wani lokaci, Mapplethorpe ya fara shimfiɗa nasa (safa) tufafi a kan firam ɗin katako don ƙirƙirar sassaka-fasalin da ba na al'ada ba; daga baya, ya sanye da bakar fata.
Simons ya san duk wannan. Saboda haka gaskiyar girmamawarsa ga Mapplethorpe ya ji sosai, mai kishi da gaskiya. Da dabara na nassoshi da yawa na Simons ya ba da zurfin nunin - palette na baki; fari; inuwar-naman da aka ƙulle-ƙulle na crimson, ruwan hoda, da shunayya; da burgundy na coagulated jini; dungarewan fata suna kyalkyali da ƙullun ƙarfe. Simons ya shafe la'asar biyu yana yin amfani da kayan tarihin Mapplethorpe na takaddun tuntuɓar. Ya yi gwagwarmaya tare da kalmomin Ingilishi don kwatanta waɗannan: Ya kira su "taswirori," wanda shine mafi ban sha'awa da ra'ayi mai ban sha'awa lokacin da aka yi amfani da binciken Simons, don nemo sabon yanki na Mapplethorpe, don sa shi jin dacewa da farin ciki ga sabon tsara. . Abin da ya ga matsayinsa ke nan.
Ni ma mai son Mapplethorpe ne. Ba zan iya taimakawa ba sai dai in haɗa wannan nuni ga sha'awar Mapplethorpe tare da firam ɗin, tare da ba da hotonsa nau'in nau'i mai nau'in nau'i uku, wani nau'i mai kyau na sassaka ta hanyar tsarawa da matting a cikin karammiski da katako mai ban sha'awa, yana haɗa hotuna zuwa abubuwa. Yin hotunansa fiye da yadda za a fara bayyana. Simons ya zana hotunan Mapplethorpe da zane, amma sai ya ƙara tsara su a jiki: hoton da aka buga a kan tabardi, ka ce, wanda ke kewaye da labulen lapels na jaket, ko kuma aka bayyana a kan T-shirt a ƙarƙashin wani sutura mai laushi. Simons ya ja hankalin Hotunan furanni na Mapplethorpe na jima'i, kyawawan hotunansa na shahararrun batutuwa kamar Debbie Harry, wanda aka kama cikin hasken haske, da na masu fasaha waɗanda Simons kuma ke ba da sha'awar, kamar Alice Neel, wanda aka kama mako guda ko makamancin haka kafin mutuwarta a cikin m 1984 hoto. Jima'i ya kasance a wurin, kuma; Simons ya dage akan haka. Jaket ɗin da ba a mantawa da ita ba ta juyo don bayyana hoton phallus madaidaiciya.
Ya kuma yi amfani da kalmar "curation" don kwatanta wannan wasan kwaikwayon: "Ina so in kusanci shi kamar gidan kayan gargajiya, ko wasan kwaikwayo na gallery. Wanda aka yi sau da yawa idan ya zo ga aikin Mapplethorpe. Cindy Sherman ya yi, David Hockney ya yi. Amma ko da yaushe a cikin gallery. " Simons ya daure fuska. “Ni mai zanen kaya ne. Ina tsammanin babban kalubalen shi ne in yi shi a cikin muhalli na."
Abubuwan da aka tsara don ra'ayi mai ban sha'awa, musamman ma a lokacin da yawancin masu zanen kaya suka dace kuma suna yin la'akari ba tare da bashi ba - kuma lokacin da mutane da yawa suka jefa a kusa da kalmar "curate." Yana da nuni ga yanayin Simons-girmamawa, shiru, mai hankali - cewa ya ga wannan tarin ba a matsayin abubuwan da ya halitta tare da hotunan Mapplethorpe ba, amma a matsayin haɗin gwiwar da ya dace da wasan kwaikwayo na gallery, inda aikinsa ya kasance, akalla a wani ɓangare, mafi kyau. nuna ayyukan da aka ba shi. Amma kuma ya kasance a yi amfani da waɗannan ayyukan don ba da wani sabon labari, mai ban sha'awa, da tsokana. Don nuna mana wani sabon abu daga sanannun, kuma ana gani da yawa, ma'ajin Mapplethorpe. Wanda babu shakka yayi.