Samuel Taylor Coleridge's 1798 "Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner" tuaj rau hauv siab thaum peb pom Sarah Burton qhov kev ua yeeb yam ntawm The Arches hauv Southwark hnub no. Nautical motifs, mythical creatures, thiab Edwardian tailoring hais txog ib tug epic taug kev nyob rau hauv qhib hiav txwv. Qhov kev nkag siab zoo ntawm kev phom sij uas tau siv los nthuav tawm ntau yam ntawm Lee McQueen cov yeeb yaj kiab tau kov yeej hauv qhov chaw lub teeb ci daj raws li cov lus ntxhi tsis zoo tau nkag mus rau hauv thiab tawm ntawm lub suab nrov tom qab. Nrog rau Savage Beauty exhibition tseem tab tom ua nyob rau hauv Victoria & Albert Tsev khaws puav pheej, nws yog ib qho nyuaj rau kho hnub no cov yeeb yam ntawm lub ntsej muag tus nqi yam tsis tau khi tag nrho cov latent tsaus romanticisms thiab kev xav ntawm sab hauv tensions rov qab mus rau Lee lub nco. Yog tias qhov tsis txaus ntseeg nyob hauv qhov caw, muaj ib daim duab ntawm ib tug txiv neej ntawm Victorian boxer pastiche nrog Bright Eyes 'cov lus tattooed ntawm nws lub tes tsho: "Thaum txhua yam nyob ib leeg, kuv tuaj yeem ua kuv tus phooj ywg zoo tshaj." Lub ntsiab lus ntawm solitude yog ib qho kev sib koom ua ke ntawm tus kheej txoj hauv kev ntawm McQueen, Coleridge, thiab Mariner - thiab kuj tshwm sim los ua lub suab nrov tshaj plaws hauv kev sau.
Nws lub zog, zoo li lub caij dhau los, yog nyob rau hauv qhov tseeb ntawm kev txiav. Qhov qhib qhov muag dawb saib nrog Victorian paj ntaub thoob plaws hauv siab echoed Sarah Burton kev ua koob tsheej ntawm gentry kawg lub caij nplooj zeeg / caij ntuj no. Tau lees paub, cov mariners niaj hnub no tau saib ntau dua qhov tsis zoo, tab sis nws ua rau muaj kev taw qhia ntau dua. Cardinal kev taw qhia cov duab thiab cov anchors adorned pajamas koom tes nrog navy piping dab tshos; hlau eyelets punctured oversized peacoats; thiab cov kab txaij nautical tau abstracted, spliced, thiab diced rau ntawm noj hmo suits. Muaj ib qho kev niaj hnub rau kev txiav khaub ncaws uas peb tsis tau pom nyob rau ib ntus: hemlines tau cropped, duav cinched, thiab nthuav dav (xws li lub hnab ris) ntau off-kilter. Cov yeeb yam crescendo-ed nyob rau hauv peb lub xeem dhau los nrog tag nrho cov ntshav renderings ntawm enchanting hiav txwv monsters los ntawm Medieval maps ntawm lub 16th thiab 17th centuries uas yuav tau yooj yim cameo-ed nyob rau hauv Coleridge cov dab neeg. Lub regency robe uas kaw qhov yeeb yam punctuated lub sau thaum lub sij hawm zoo meej; lub pacing tau zoo heev.
Raws li nws mus, Burton yuav ib txwm muaj keeb kwm ntawm Lee McQueen looming nyob hauv tsev. Tab sis nws qhov kev txawj ntse hauv kev rub lub siab ntawm Lee cov kiv cua uas muaj zog tshaj plaws, los ntawm kev sib xyaw ua ke ntawm nostalgia thiab ua yeeb yam, tsim nyog qhuas nws tus kheej. Cov yeeb yam niaj hnub no yog kev ua qauv qhia ntawm Burton lub peev xwm los rub tawm cov khaub ncaws uas muaj kev xav zoo heev uas tau sib cav tias qhov kawg ntawm lub pob zeb ntawm Lee txoj haujlwm - lwm qhov kev ua tiav zoo uas nyob hauv lub tsev lub cim sawv.
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