Saib Thom Browne Men's Fall 2019 runway show live at Beaux-Arts de Paris.
Tus kws kho mob tshwj xeeb hauv qhov kev ua yeeb yam ntxim nyiam no tau xa tawm ntau cov khaub ncaws zoo nkauj uas tau tsim los ntawm cov khaub ncaws hnav.
Nyob rau hauv lub npe ntawm kev ruaj ntseg, Thom Browne forewent ib tug zoo nkauj txheej, qhwv lub venue - teem nyob rau hauv lub École nationale supérieure des Beaux-Arts - hauv npuas qhwv, lub rooj zaum suav nrog. Tsis txhob hais txog lub procession ntawm pharaoh-zoo li cov duab uas qhib qhov yeeb yam.
Browne, uas tseem Saran-pob cov qauv ntsej muag, xav tsis thoob txog nws. "Nws tsuas yog rau kev lom zem xwb," nws demurred. "Peb siv cov npuas qhwv rau kev xa khoom xa rov qab thiab tawm mus, yog li nws yog qhov pib siv qhov peb siv rau qhov laj thawj logistical thiab ua rau hauv lub teeb."
Tus tswv ntawm kev ua yeeb yam - lub sijhawm no tawm ntawm nws tus kheej hauv nws lub peev xwm los thauj cov neeg tuaj saib mus rau hauv lub ntiaj teb sib npaug - tus kws txiav plaub hau, uas muaj kev lag luam vam meej thiab tus tswv tshiab, Ermenegildo Zegna Group, kuj nyiam kho txoj kev khiav raws li kev tawm dag zog hauv style. Ntawm no nws coj nws txoj kev hlub ntawm Fifties-hom qauv tsim qauv thiab nthuav nws mus rau hauv cov khaub ncaws hnav thiab khaub ncaws hnav khaub ncaws fantasia.
Nws ua si hauv peb ntu, qhib nrog feminized, corseted spin ntawm classic suit, siv "zoo nkauj poj niam" tsoos ntaub zoo li lus Askiv yos hav zoov tweeds, Shetland wools, Harris tweeds thiab tsim tub rog cashmeres.
Zoo li Mary Poppins-style tsho tiv no nrog cov poj niam lub ntsiab zoo li cov plaub hau cuffs ntawm lub tes tsho, thiab cable knit cardigans hloov mus rau hauv lub khawm ntev khawm pem hauv ntej tiab, nrog rau tus tsim qauv warping proportions, shrinking lub cev ntawm ib tug niaj hnub bomber tsho, hais tias, los tsim ib tug quav. - lub duav nyhuv
Tom ntej no tuaj qhov muag-trickery trompe l'oeil versions ntawm suiting, tsho thiab ties. Thiab tom qab ntawd, tsuas yog thaum koj xav tias koj tau pom tag nrho, nws coj nws mus rau lwm qhov loj me nrog cov khaub ncaws zoo nkauj uas tau tsim los ntawm cov khaub ncaws ntawm cov khoom sib txuas ua ke thiab draped ib ncig ntawm lub cev, txav ntawm tiag tiag trompe l'oeils thiab tiag tiag khaub ncaws sewn. ua ke. "Nws yuav luag zoo li zoo, zoo dua, zoo tshaj," Browne xaus lus ntawm kev hloov pauv ntawm nws txoj kev taug kev kos duab.
Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2019 Paris
"Nws yog qhov nthuav kom pom tias cov txiv neej hnav li cas tam sim no thiab kuv xav tias qhov tiag tiag, poj niam hnav txoj hauv kev yog qhov nthuav heev rau cov txiv neej niaj hnub no," nws hais ntxiv, nws nyiam lub tswv yim ntawm "coj cov txiv neej zoo nkauj heev thiab draping lawv ntawm lub cev. ua kom lawv feminine heev, "zoo li hnav khaub ncaws yav tsaus ntuj. Browne hais tias "Nco ntsoov siv txhua daim ntawm qhov zoo li uas koj pom nyob rau hauv pem hauv ntej," hais Browne. "Nyob ruaj khov heev, nco ntsoov."
Qhov kawg muaj cov npuas qhwv-topcoat hnav cov qauv nthuav tawm ib kab ntawm cov menyuam roj hmab hnav khaub ncaws nyob rau hauv cov qauv ntawm cov khaub ncaws uas nyuam qhuav pom ntawm txoj kev khiav. Nws underscored lub couture theem ntawm lub collection.
Kev zoo nkauj: #isamayafrench
Cov plaub hau: #eugenesouleiman