Riccardo Tisci yog nyob rau hauv kev txav mus los, coj los ntawm lub ntiaj teb ntuj tsim thiab los ntawm kev yooj yim ntawm kev sib deev thiab poj niam txiv neej nyiam poj niam txiv neej xws li David Bowie thiab Michael Clark.
Riccardo Tisci, tus thawj coj muaj tswv yim nthuav qhia cov txiv neej nkaus xwb zam kev ua yeeb yam hauv beige ua keeb kwm yav dhau los rau kev ua yeeb yam hauv lub khw Burberry legendary ntawm Regent Street, hauv plawv London.
Lub wardrobe raws li lub tsev cov lis dej num cov revisited trench-coat, xaus nrog ib lub tsho nyob rau tom qab thiab hnav nrog pleated tiab lub hnub qub raws li ib tug cim ntawm kev npau suav thiab khiav nrog ib tug nod mus rau teb chaws Europe nrog lub xiav keeb kwm yav dhau?
Fringes rau ib daim ntawv ntawm exoticism thiab taug kev ib tug poj niam zaj, ua si nrog poj niam los txiv neej rau cov tshiab dandies, sib tov kev lig kev cai thiab kev ywj pheej, nrog heev flat-high khau looj plab hlaub thiab rau accessories: rucksacks thiab umbrellas… kev ua yeeb yam (tsuas yog siv rau hauv cov ntsiab lus ntawm qhov kev ua yeeb yam no, suav nrog txoj cai rau cov ntaub ntawv.)
Txawm hais tias Lub Ob Hlis yog lub caij nyoog ntawm cov poj niam npaj-rau-hnav hauv London, lub hlis no Burberry tau ua ib qho kev sau cov txiv neej nkaus xwb, thiab muaj cai nws 'Escapes.'
Cov khaub ncaws no cim thawj zaug uas lub tsev Tus Thawj Saib Xyuas Kev Tsim Nyog Riccardo Tisci tau nthuav tawm "cov txiv neej-tsim" sau rau Burberry. Nws tau dhau los ua kev txiav txim siab ncig saib lub zog los ntawm Riccardo, nthuav tawm nyob rau hauv ib qho ntawm Tisci cov khoom nyiam - ntau theem ntawm daj ntseg plywood thiab corrugated beige curtains.
Ua ntej ua yeeb yam, Italian teeb tsa lub siab los ntawm pampering qee tus VIPs thiab cov neeg kho
Xa lawv tag nrho cov rooj zaum safari niaj hnub, uas tau luam tawm qhov tseeb ntawm thaj chaw sib koom ua ke ntawm cov yeeb yam. Taug kev hauv lub tuam txhab London lub tuam txhab ntawm Horseferry House hauv Westminster, online thiab tsis muaj cov neeg tuaj saib nyob rau hnub Monday, plaub hnub ntawm tsib hnub London Fashion Week.
Thaum nyob rau hauv kev sib raug zoo xov xwm, tus tsim qauv qhia cov yeeb yaj duab ntawm haum cov tub ntxhais hluas sib tw los ntawm cov chaw ua si thiab lub teb chaws ua ntej yuav xaus nyob rau hauv nruab nrab ntawm London; koob yees duab txhaj rotating nyob ib ncig ntawm lub taub hau ntawm nws cam khwb cia, los yog dluab ntawm cov yeeb yam caw featuring 'Wilderness' tau ua tib zoo sewn ntawm ib tug sweatshirt.
Tisci pib thiab txuas ntxiv nrog Burberry lub ris tsho kos npe, lub tsho loj.
Tab sis nws yog trench nrog qhov sib txawv; qhia lawv nrog classic pem hauv ntej tab sis txiav tawm tom qab raws li ib tug ribbed jerkin. Qhia lawv hauv classic beige los yog av nkos plaids. Lwm tus tuaj lapel-dawb recalling thaum ntxov '60s style ntawm Pierre Cardin; tseem lwm tus nyob rau hauv ingenious pleated tiav.
Tisci hlub ib tug txiv neej nyob rau hauv ib lub tiab, lub caij no qhia lub hauv caug-ntev zoo nkaus li nyob rau hauv ib tug bashed metallic cooper los yog lwm tus neeg nyob rau hauv Fortuny-worthy multi-pleats. Hnav nrog natty PVC leggings, zoo tagnrho rau lub txias cèilidh ntawm Highland Kab tshoob.
Steadycam cameramen tom qab txhua tus qauv nyob ib ncig ntawm lub undulating teeb, txawm tias tsuas yog ob tug gals - pouting qub tub rog Edie Campbell thiab lwm tus blonde. Cov teeb riffing nyob rau hauv wandering struts ntawm Burberry lub renovated flagship ntawm Regent Street.
Thiab nrog North Americans raug kev txom nyem los ntawm cua daj cua dub loj, Tisci muaj cov khoom zoo tshaj plaws: zoo heev Yeti rapper tsho loj hauv kev sib ntaus sib tua-grey faux fur; los yog muaj zog duffle tsho tiv no nrog thaj Velcro pluaj, tiav nrog tus kav nroog nyob deb nroog txhob lo lo ntxhuav phuam qhwv caj dab. Tag nrho cov topped los ntawm mos lwj motif beanies thiab anchored los ntawm khau boots sculpted zoo li hooves. Wildernessindeed.
Rau ntau lub sijhawm zoo li taug kev mus rau lub tsev qiv ntawv hauv tsev kawm ntawv nplooj, nws tau pom faux-fur V-cricket sweaters; ob lub 'B'-logo Varsity baseball tsho, qee zaum tsis muaj tes tsho; los yog zoo padded patchwork ua hauj lwm tsho.
Tisci cov tswv yim rau Burberry tau pom meej meej hauv qab no.
Zoo li txhua hom kev zam tseem ceeb, Burberry tau raug cuam tshuam los ntawm kev kaw, txawm hais tias nws 4% poob rau hauv cov nyiaj tau los rau £ 688 lab hauv lub quarter kawg ntawm xyoo tas los txhais tau tias nws ua tau zoo dua li ntau ntawm nws cov neeg sib tw. Yog li, xav tias 15% ntawm nws cov khw muag khoom raug kaw.
Yog li, thaum qhov kev sau no yuav muaj cai hu ua 'Wilderness' thiab 'Escapes,' Tisci thiab Burberry nyob deb ntawm kev ua lag luam boondocks, deb ntawm nws.