Chanel Pre-Fall 2015 Salzburg
Karl Lagerfeld flicked los ntawm lub koob yees duab yob ntawm nws iPhone 6 thiab flashed ib daim duab xwb tsis ntev los no unearthed: Tus German designer li ib tug me nyuam tub hnav khaub ncaws nyob rau hauv lederhosen. "Raws li menyuam yaus kuv hnav tsis muaj dab tsi ntxiv," nws shrugged.Cov tawv breeches tau tshoov siab rau lub hnab ntim tshiab Chanel, qhov poob-pem hauv ntej yoov hloov mus rau hauv lub hnab zippered uas tuaj yeem ua rau nuv ntses rau daim di ncauj ua blush-inducing.
"Koj yuav tsum lees tias nws yog qhov funny heev, ntawm ciam teb ntawm qias neeg. Tab sis nws yog ib qho laj thawj heev, "Lagerfeld tau hais zoo siab thaum saib ua ntej ntawm nws cov ntawv sau Métiers d'arts tshiab, hu ua Paris-Salzburg.
Los ntawm kev muab lub neej tshiab rau Alpine style, Lagerfeld nqa mus rau qhov qub txeeg qub teg ntawm lub tsev npe hu ua Gabrielle Chanel, uas pom kev tshoov siab rau ib qho ntawm nws cov cim tseem ceeb tshaj plaws thiab muaj kev ruaj ntseg tsim nyob rau hauv qhov sib piv-trim, plaub lub hnab tshos hnav los ntawm tus neeg nqa nqa ntawm Salzburg's. Hotel Mittersall tshwj xeeb. Nws yog tus tswv, Baron Hubert von Pantz, yog Chanel tus hlub nyob rau hauv Thirties, thiab nws rov qab los rau kev tsim ob xyoo caum tom qab yog qhov muaj hmoo heev.
"Nyob rau lub Tsib Hlis, nws tau rov qab los ntawm no, yog li nws pom lub tsho no thiab qhov tseeb li cas lub tsho Chanel tau yug los," Lagerfeld tau piav qhia rau hnub Monday thaum nws muab qhov kawg kov ntawm kev sau. "Koj saib ntawm Chanel hauv Twenties thiab Thirties thiab tsis muaj dab tsi zoo li no."
Lagerfeld paraded mus nqa tawm tshiab versions ntawm lub Chanel tsho - thiab cua daj cua dub ntawm frothy sweaters thiab blouses - thaum peb khiav qhia ntawm Rococo palace Schloss Leopoldskron. Lub spectacle catapulted ib txwm Tyrolean ntsiab, luxed mus rau lub niaj hnub muaj hnub nyoog, mus rau lub thoob ntiaj teb zam theem.
"Nws ua tau zoo heev, yuav ua li cas lawv sib xyaw kev lig kev cai los ntawm ib qho chaw tshwj xeeb nrog Chanel ntsuj plig," hais tias actress Àstrid Bergès-Frisbey. "Muaj kev saib rau txhua tus poj niam."
Ua ntej qhov yeeb yam, VIPs thiab cov neeg kho kho tau thaij duab ntawm lub salon loj nrog nws lub qhov cub marble, wrought-iron balconies thiab terrace overlooking ib tug tseem, grey-ntsuab pas dej. Woodsmoke los ntawm lub vaj nkag mus rau hauv chav tsev, ntxiv rau lub caij ntuj no décor ntawm cov ntxhuav nrog ncuav qab zib, clove-studded txiv kab ntxwv thiab txiv hmab txiv ntoo npaj reminiscent ntawm 17th-xyoo pua paintings.
"Nws zoo nkauj, thiab ntxaws heev," xav tsis thoob Bergès-Frisbey, uas tab tom npaj rau nws lub luag haujlwm tom ntej, raws li Guinevere hauv Guy Ritchie hloov kho ntawm "Knights of the Round Table."
"Peb pib ua yeeb yaj kiab thaum Lub Ob Hlis, feem ntau hauv tebchaws Askiv," nws hais. “Nws mob siab heev. Kuv tab tom npaj. "
Tus poj niam German Mavie Hörbiger, uas nyob hauv Austria, hais tias Chanel ntxeem tau yog ib qho kev tshwm sim: "Yuav kom muaj kev zam hauv Salzburg, nws tsis yog qhov qub rau cov neeg Austrian."
Lagerfeld cov yeeb yam tau pab ua rau lub caij nplooj zeeg ua ntej lub caij nplooj zeeg nrog lub ntsej muag zoo nkauj coj los ntawm kev saib xyuas cov nqaij: Crystal hnub qub twinkling ntawm lub hauv paus, ivory cardigan hauv cov ntaub plaub hau; edelweiss embroidered rau suede leggings; thiab ribbons hloov mus rau hauv lub tsho loj, ruffled lub tsho ntawm lub tsho loj ua los ntawm cov plaub, lub ntsej muag rau falconry xyaum los ntawm Austrian aristocrats ntawm yore.
“Nws zoo nkauj rau nws, tsis yog? Qhov ntawd yog qhov ze tshaj plaws uas koj tuaj yeem tau txais mus rau dirndl, "Lagerfeld hais tias thaum Lara Stone nkag mus rau hauv ib lub tsho haum rau hauv lub tsho dub taffeta nrog lub tsho zoo li lub ntsej muag zoo li hauv ruffles. “Kuv tsis xav kom nws zoo li 'Lub Tsev Me ntawm Prairie.'” (Txawm tias tom qab ntawd tus qauv tuaj yeem raug soj ntsuam hauv lub vaj ntawm lub viav vias ntoo uas raug tshem tawm ntawm ceg ntoo, nws tus me nyuam mos squealing nrog zoo siab rau hauv nws txhais ceg. )
Muaj kev sib tw rau Austro-Hungarian faj tim teb chaws, ib yam nkaus, Lagerfeld tau sau tseg, thaum ntxiv trimmings ntawm lace, ruffles, thiab ribbons yog à la hom.
"Kuv nyiam tus ntsuj plig," tus tsim qauv hais. "Kuv tsis xav ua dab tsi folkloric. Qhov no yog ntau ntawm fantasy. Nws yuav tsum yog niaj hnub, nws yuav tsum raug rau niaj hnub no, proportions, txhua yam. "
Rau wit: Heidi braids tau raug mob rau hauv earmuffs quirky, thaum cov breeches feem ntau txhais tau tias kicky denim luv, stitched nrog curlicue embroideries.
Cov yeeb yam tau qhib nrog ib qho ntawm cov flaring, cape-zoo li tsho nrog gilded braid los yog velvet trims. Lagerfeld tau siv cov txiaj ntsig zoo sib xws rau cov turtleneck sweaters, cov tog neeg hnav khaub ncaws, nrog rau cov khaub ncaws ua kom puv puv puv hauv cov plaub.
Lagerfeld's ode rau Mitteleuropa swung ntawm homespun - needlepoint paj txoj cai tawm ntawm paj ntaub hoop plunked qhov twg Chanel lub hnab tshos braided feem ntau zaum - rau sleeker fare, xws li zoo nkauj flannel trousers nrog braided kab txaij thiab enveloping shearlings speckled nrog kub los yog nyiaj.
Kev hnav thaum yav tsaus ntuj yog qhov tshwj xeeb, nrog cov npauj npaim thiab cov plaub alighting ntawm daj ntseg xiav chiffon, thiab puffed npis sov lub tes tsho ntxiv romantic kov rau austere dub satin dresses nrog deflated dirndl ntim.
Thaum lub sij hawm nws hneev nti, Lagerfeld plucked ib tug pretzel tawm ntawm lub rooj thiab muab nws rau Cara Delevingne, uas coj ib tug tom thiab ces tuav nws aloft zoo li ib tug football tom qab ib tug touchdown.
Txog 220 ntawm Chanel cov neeg siv khoom zoo tshaj plaws, suav nrog cov koom haum loj los ntawm German-hais lus Europe, nqis los ntawm lub nroog zoo nkauj no, tau txais txiaj ntsig rau nws qhov chaw keeb kwm, kev ua yeeb yam zoo nkauj, opera thiab palaces zoo li Leopoldskron.
“Nws zoo nkauj heev. Nws yog ib qho ntawm kuv qhov chaw nyiam nyob hauv Europe. Kuv nyiam lub vaj. Yog tias tsis muaj huab cua koj tuaj yeem pom cov roob, "Lagerfeld hais. Nws tau sau tseg tias 26 xyoo dhau los nws tau tua Chanel phiaj los nqis tes nrog tus qauv Inès de la Fressange ntawm lub palace, ib qho ntawm nws thawj zaug rau Fabkis lub tsev.
"Kuv tau tuaj ntawm no ntau heev," tus tsim qauv hais txog. “Kuv txawm xauj tsev nyob hauv cheeb tsam no. Kuv hlub Salzburg, Kuv nyiam thaj chaw no. "
Hnub Monday tsaus ntuj, cov qhua tuaj koom noj hmo lavish ntawm St. Peter Stiftskeller, suav tias yog lub tsev noj mov qub tshaj plaws hauv Tebchaws Europe thiab tau ntim rau hauv lub tsev teev ntuj. Ua ntej txhua tus neeg nyob rau hauv ib lub rooj noj mov xya-hnub uas qhib nrog tartare ntawm fawn, qos yaj ywm rösti thiab plum chutney, tus tsim tau nthuav tawm xya-feeb video clip uas muaj "Zoo siab" tus neeg hu nkauj Pharrell Williams li tus tub ultra-chic nqa tus tub thiab Delevingne raws li ib tug. Reincarnation ntawm Empress Elizabeth ntawm Austria, nrov npe hu ua Sissi.
"Nws puas tuaj yeem yog tus ntxhais los pab kuv pom, pom (CC) lub ntiaj teb," Williams croons hauv cov nkauj qub uas nws sau ua ib qho duet nrog tus qauv, uas tab tom ua yeeb yam thiab suab paj nruag.
Kev xaiv sab kev nyiam thaum lub sijhawm Alpine excursion suav nrog Salzburg lub khw Christmas nto moo thiab concerts ntawm suab paj nruag los ntawm lub nroog tus tub nto moo tshaj plaws, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.
Cov qhua ntawm kev ua yeeb yam sab laug nrog lub hnab tote uas muaj cov ntawv luam tawm ntawm "Der Rosenkavalier," ib qho kev ua yeeb yaj kiab los ntawm Richard Strauss raws li tus thawj German libretto los ntawm Hugo von Hofmannsthal, nrog rau nws cov lus Askiv txhais lus thiab cov ntaub ntawv ntawm cov duab kos los ntawm Alfred Roller. ntawm costumes thiab teeb rau ib tug 1910 ntau lawm.
Puas yog tus kws tshaj lij kab lis kev cai, Lagerfeld txawm coaxed qhua los coj cov tais hauv zos delicacies, suav nrog Kaiserschmarren, lub ncuav qab zib uas muaj npe tom qab Austrian huab tais Franz Joseph I, uas Williams tau rov ua dua hauv cov yeeb yaj kiab nrog cov yeeb yaj kiab.
"Koj yuav tsum saj nws: Nws yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws hauv ntiaj teb," tus tsim qauv thov.
Lub Métiers d'art collection, clocking ob-lej nce, sawv cev qhov loj hlob sai tshaj plaws ntawm Chanel kev lag luam niaj hnub no, raws li Bruno Pavlovsky, tus thawj tswj hwm ntawm Chanel zam.
Nws tau hais tias "Muaj ntau cov ntsiab lus, thiab peb cov neeg siv khoom nyiam txhua qhov kev xav no nyob ib puag ncig lub hom," nws hais. "Nws yuav sai sai no ntau dua lossis tsawg dua qhov tseem ceeb ib yam li lub Kaum Hli lossis Lub Peb Hlis sau."
Tshaj tawm xyoo 2002 los txhawb cov neeg ua haujlwm tshwj xeeb Chanel tus tswv, suav nrog tus kws tshaj lij Scottish cashmere Barrie thiab Fabkis tweed tuam txhab ACT. 3, nws qhov kev yuav khoom tau tshaj tawm hnub Monday, qhov kev sau txhua xyoo Métiers d'arts yog tam sim no txhawb nqa los ntawm kev tshaj tawm kev tshaj tawm - Salzburg ib qho yog los ua yeeb yam Delevingne thiab Williams - thiab tau nqa hauv txhua lub tuam txhab Fab Kis 189 boutiques, nrog rau hauv txog 100 xaiv cov khw tshwj xeeb.
Rau kev muag khoom frothy, Pavlovsky tau lees paub qhov kev xa khoom thaum ntxov - nyob rau nruab nrab Lub Tsib Hlis mus rau Asmeskas ua ntej, tom qab ntawd Europe thiab tom qab ntawd Asia thaum nruab nrab Lub Rau Hli - thiab cov lus piav qhia muaj zog tom qab sau, txhua tus ua rau lub neej tshiab hauv cov yeeb yaj kiab ua haujlwm ntawm lub tsev lub npe. Chanel tau taug kev mus rau Dallas, Shanghai, Edinburgh thiab Tokyo los ua kab ke tshiab.
Pavlovsky tau hais tias "Peb cov neeg siv khoom, lawv tau siv los pom cov silhouettes tshiab thiab cov tshiab tshiab hauv lub khw txhua ob lub hlis," Pavlovsky tau hais. "Txhua zaus, muaj ntau yam hais txog nws lub neej - tiag tiag thiab kev xav. Cov ntsiab lus no yog tsim lub Chanel ntawm tag kis. "
Kev xam phaj hauv chav tsev ntoo uas pom lub pas dej uas yog ib qho chaw ua haujlwm ntawm Max Reinhardt, tus thawj coj ua yeeb yam thiab tus tsim ntawm Salzburg Festival, Pavlovsky tau sau tseg tias npaj hnav yog cov khoom lag luam loj tshaj plaws ntawm Chanel, thiab kho dua tshiab. thiab cov khw loj, tag nrho los ntawm tus kws kes duab vajtse Peter Marino, yog kom haum rau cov kev xaiv dav dua.
Chanel tsis ntev los no tau hloov nws lub khw Vienna, nws tsuas yog Austrian outpost, vim li no, thiab tsis ntev los no tau ua tib yam hauv Hamburg thiab Frankfurt. Dusseldorf nyob tom ntej.
Thaum Métiers d'art ntau yam tau thawb tus nqi mus rau thaj chaw tshiab - cov tsho loj tuaj yeem yooj yim khiav mus txog $ 25,000 - Pavlovsky tau sau tseg tias muaj cov khoom pheej yig, thiab. "Nws tsis yog lo lus nug ntawm tus nqi, nws yog ntau ntxiv txog tus nqi ntawm cov khoom no," nws hais.
Nug yog Métiers d'art collections - feem ntau tshwm sim los ntawm ib cheeb tsam xws li Russia, Is Nrias teb, los yog Qaib Cov Txwv - resonate nyob rau hauv cov kev lag luam tshwj xeeb, Pavlovsky teb: "ua siab ncaj, peb tsis txawm kuaj. Dallas zaj dab neeg muaj zog heev hauv Suav teb thiab Nyij Pooj raws li nws nyob hauv Asmeskas. "
Tseem Lagerfeld lub xub ntiag nyob rau hauv Austria, cov xov xwm pem hauv ntej hauv cov ntaub ntawv suav nrog Salzburger Nachtrichten thiab Kronen Zeitung, thiab nws cov Chanel sau tau paub tseeb tias yuav ua kom nrov hauv cheeb tsam kev zam thiab kab lis kev cai qub txeeg qub teg.
Lagerfeld, uas tau hnav ib lub tsho loden thaum nws nyob, tau hu ib lo lus los ntawm yav dhau los: "Ib tiam los thiab mus, tab sis lederhosen yuav nyob mus ib txhis."
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