Txij li thaum pib ntawm nws qhov chaw lag luam e-lag luam, Jeffrey tau hais tias nws nyiam crunching cov ntaub ntawv muag kom nkag siab tias nws cov neeg siv khoom xav tau dab tsi.
Charles Jeffrey ntsia ncaj nraim rau hauv qhov tsaus ntuj rau nws cov ntawv sau tshiab kawg. "Nws yog lub sijhawm xav txog thiab lees paub qhov tseeb tias ... qee zaum koj muaj cov kev xav no," nws hais.
Los ntawm ib pliag mus rau ib qho kev txav - ib qho manifesto hauv cov duab tawg
Qhov no manifesto yog sau nyob rau hauv invisible number case, no prose-poem yuav tawg. Burnt brushstrokes ntawm koj nraub qaum, nyiaj frogging trailing ties, knitted knots ntawm gestural abstraction. Ib tug gaudy visage nyob rau hauv lub gloom. Cia peb ntsia lub jelly no rau ntawm phab ntsa. Catch "ua tsis taus pa ua ntej dhia".
Gloom yog hais txog kev nyob ntsiag to, qhov tseem ceeb ntawm Irving Penn portrait, ntawm daguerreotype, ntawm vanitas painting: cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo yog rotting thiab txhua leej txhua tus mob los ntawm tuav ib tug pose, tab sis nyob rau hauv qhov kev cia siab no muaj kev zoo siab. Lub sijhawm ua ntej 'txheej txheem' yog ncab tawm, tshem tawm, cev xeeb tub nrog lub peev xwm.
Nyob rau hauv no stillness kuj muaj zog. Cov tsoos tsho tau sib sau ua ke los qhia txog kev tumbling ntawm ntaub, unravelling, ib tug yuav rov qab los: lawv yog perpetually nyob rau hauv lub brink ntawm dissolving ua ntej ib tug ob lub qhov muag. Ib tug threadbare tartan, elevated los ntawm impoverishment, yog yooj yim, translucent, ghostly thiab tiag tiag. Lub Corbusian façade qhia kev tsis sib haum xeeb hauv.
AUTUMN/WINTER 2021 'ZOO'
Yog tias LOVERBOY sau kawg yog hais txog kev cia siab thiab sim ua qhov zoo, nws qhov AW21 muab yog hais txog tus kabmob kis mus rau hauv tsev.
Nws tau hais tias "Kuv xav tham txog qhov tsaus ntuj uas peb txhua tus tau hnov," nws hais. Nws tau tshawb fawb txog Dr Seuss cov duab ib tag hmo - "uas yog qhov tsis sib xws rau cov dab neeg zoo uas nws muaj npe nrov" hais tias tus tsim qauv uas tau tsim David Lynch xav xav thiab ua rau Louis Bourgeois nyiam ua haujlwm hauv ntaub.
Qhov ntawd ua ke nrog kev sib tsoo hauv av ntawm kev kaw cia, ua rau nws tshawb nrhiav ntau qhov kev ntxhov siab thiab teeb meem ntawm lub siab lub ntsws thiab nthuav tawm qhov kev nkag siab ntawm qhov tsis zoo nrog rau nws qhov kos npe txaus siab tiv thaiv. Nws feem ntau siv cov ntawv luam tawm thiab cov qauv ntawm nws tus kheej cov duab zoo nkauj, tab sis lub sijhawm no, tseem yog los ntawm cov yeeb yaj kiab yeeb yaj kiab los ntawm Thurston Redding zaj duab xis uas muaj tus ua las voos Kate Npib, tau luam tawm rau hauv cov khaub ncaws sab nrauv thiab cov tsho.
Rau AW21, nws Loverboy tartan raug thawb mus rau qhov kawg ntawm kev ua haujlwm ntev nrog PU txheej, muab nws zoo li tawv zoo li. Tom qab ntawd nws raug thawb mus rau qhov kawg ntawm fragility nrog threads yaj mus rau hauv ib tug nplua fringe. "Npuag thiab kev ntxhib los mos coj tus kheej," hais tias tus tsim qauv, taw qhia tias cov ntaub tuaj yeem patched. Nws tau khi qhov ntawd nrog lub tswv yim ntawm "kho qhov kev xav tsis zoo," uas yog nyob rau hauv pem hauv ntej ntawm nws lub siab thaum peb tawm hauv kev kaw.
Nws lub npe tau yug los hauv Dalston club Vogue Fabrics, tab sis cov koom haum tau raug kaw rau ntau tshaj ib xyoos tam sim no. Ib qho kev kaw cia rau hnub Friday lossis hnub Saturday tsaus ntuj rau tus tsim qauv siv zaum hauv tsev nrog nws tus hluas nraug thiab ua si nrog pleev. "Kuv pheej xav txog yuav ua li cas kho nws kom nyob hauv ib chav uas muaj neeg coob coob ua las voos rau ib zaj nkauj," nws hais. Ib yam li cov koom haum xws li Vogue Fabrics ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv zej zog, los ntawm kev tsim qhov chaw rau cov neeg hauv zej zog queer, yog li Jeffrey xav kom nws lub hom phiaj los tsim ib qho chaw thiab txhawb nqa tib neeg. Loverboy xyoo 2020 yuav yog Warholian hotbed, tsim los ntawm kev sib koom tes thiab kev nkag siab ntawm tsev neeg, nrog cov neeg ua yeeb yam hauv tsev thiab nws tus kheej kev nkag siab ntawm zej zog. Tawm ntawm qhov tsaus ntuj, mus rau hauv qhov kaj.
Tus thawj coj muaj tswv yim - Charles Jeffrey (@mrcharlesjeffrey)
Tus kws yees duab - Thurstan Redding (@thurstanredding)
Styling – Matthew Josephs (@matthew_josephs)
Makeup - Lucy Choj (@lucyjbridge) rau M.A.C Pro (@maccosmetics)
Cov plaub hau - Eugene Souleiman (@eugenesouleiman)
Teem - Andrew Lim Clarkson (@andrewlimclarkson)
Casting - Madeleine Østile & Aamo Casting ntawm CLM (@aamo_casting)
Khau Taw - Txhawb nqa bv Dr Martens (@drmartensofficial)
Kev Kho Hniav Khaub Ncaws - Natacha Marro (@natachamarro)
Cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub kos duab - Andrew Logan (@andrewlogangallery)
Kev taw qhia txav - Kate Coyne (@katecoyne68)
Cov qauv (hauv kev txiav txim ntawm qhov tsos) - Jasper Leigh (@jasperleigh_), Lotte O'Rourke (@lottepottehotte),
Qi Han (@q.qihan), James Potter (@waltdisco), Linnea Skoglosa (@linneaskoglosa),
Omolola Onasanya (@omogirl__), Lukas Magill (@whitetrashtray);
Daim duab kawg kuj tseem muaj Niall Underwood (@niallunderwood).