Ntxuav taffeta, denim thiab khau tiaj tiaj ua rau qhov zoo tshaj plaws ntawm Pierpaolo Piccioli cov khoom sau.
Kev kis tus kab mob kis thoob qhov txhia chaw, Valentino npaj-rau-hnav ua yeeb yam hauv Paris feem ntau tau ua nyob rau hauv lub tsev pheeb suab zoo nkauj - ib qho piv txwv rau cov npuas zam, lub zej zog kaw ntawm kev tshaj xov xwm thiab cov kws tshaj lij muag khoom, VIPs thiab cov cuam tshuam.
Rau lub caij nplooj ntoo hlav xyoo 2022, Pierpaolo Piccioli tau hloov mus rau lub Tuam Tsev Carreau du, lub tsev lag luam yav dhau los hauv koog tsev kawm ntawv Marais, thiab tau teeb tsa cov pop-ups nyob ze muag khau ntaub, paj, khoom zoo nkauj thiab cov tshuaj tiv thaiv T-shirts. Nws cov tub ntxhais hluas ua qauv nplawm los ntawm qhov chaw, teeb nrog cov rooj noj mov, thiab tom qab ntawd taug kev mus rau Rue Dupetit-Thouars, muab cov neeg Paris zaum ntawm lub tsev noj mov terraces zoo li Dixie D'Amelio thiab Noah Beck, uas tuav tes thoob plaws hauv ntau lub tsev noj mov. ua yeeb yam.
Zam lub kaus ntxhw yees tau raug rhuav tshem, thiab Piccioli tau muaj zog - thiab sib tw - los dai ib qho tuaj-ib-los-tag nrho kos npe rau ntawm lub tsev Roman couture.
"Kuv qhov kev sib tw yog ua kom lub hom phiaj cuam tshuam rau lub sijhawm no yam tsis tau poob cov lej hauv tsev," nws hais thaum saib ua ntej. "Tab sis kuv tsis xav tias koj yuav tsum ua cov khaub ncaws hauv kev los puag lwm lub ntiaj teb."
Hloov chaw, Piccioli ua hauj lwm ntxuav taffeta rau Bermuda luv, anoraks, bomber tsho thiab tsho, khaub ncaws uas yuav hnav tau los ntawm ob leeg poj niam nyob rau hauv ib tug offhand txoj kev, tab sis nrog rau cov txiaj ntsig ntawm ib qho ntawm cov khoom plig zoo nkauj tshaj plaws.
Tus tsim qauv xav txog cov tub ntxhais hluas nrhiav tau ib qho chaw qub ntawm couture, thiab tinkering nrog cov ris tsho, hloov lawv mus rau lub neej hauv nroog hauv xyoo 2020.
Los tsis yog. Piccioli kuj cherry-xaiv ib txhais tes ntawm cov khoom los ntawm archive ntawm tus tsim ValentinoGaravani thiab tsis hloov lawv ib lick. Tab sis lub tsho paj ntaub paj ntaub los ntawm txoj kev rov qab yuav siv sij hawm sib txawv ntawm ib tug me nyuam tub, ib yam li cov tshuaj yej tiab festooned nrog poppies thaum hnav los ntawm Goth-saib ntxhais nrog khau boots.
Piccioli tau sau tseg tias Garavani tau ua txoj hauv kev los ua nws tus kheej thaum nws nthuav tawm cov ris tsho hauv xyoo 1985, qhia qhov dub-thiab-dawb vintage ad - piav qhia txog ib tug tub hluas nrog rau lub pob lounging seductively, nws lub ris unbuttoned, ib txhais tes tuav ib lub kua - stamped saum toj no ob lub hnab ris hauv qab.
Cov khaub ncaws hnav zoo nkauj tau ua tiav yam tsis muaj khau ntaub lossis lub logo, xov tooj los ntawm ntau haiv neeg, "cov neeg tiag tiag", cov khau khiab ntawm lub tiaj tus gladiator khau khiab thiab cov khaub ncaws hnav dawb, cov ris tsho faded blunting cov ris tsho hnav ris tsho ntawm ethereal thiab frothy dawb blouses, los yog densely embroidered dusters.
Piccioli nyiam cov khaub ncaws yooj yim xws li lub tsho - zhuzhed nrog plaub, los yog supersized thiab txiav hauv taffeta ntxhua - thiab pajamas, luam tawm nrog cov duab paj.
Cov khoom siv tau zoo kawg nkaus, hinged ntawm cov pob zeb uas tawg ua rau cov hnab ev ntawv me me thiab muab kev ntxim nyiam rau txhua yam ntawm cov khau tiaj tus.
Piccioli tau sau tseg tias cov pob zeb, uas tau pab Valentino los ua ib tus neeg tseem ceeb hauv cov khoom siv, pib ntawm lub qhov rooj ntawm Roman palazzos, thiab tej zaum yuav zoo los ntawm TikTok tiam los ua cov khoom siv lom zem.
"Nws yog qhov nthuav kom pom qee yam uas koj twb paub nrog lub qhov muag sib txawv, nrog rau qhov sib txawv," nws mused.
Ditto nws lub caij nplooj ntoos hlav khaub ncaws, uas muaj ib tug grandeur uas yog grounded.