Gucci Menswear Resort 2018

Anonim

los ntawm SARAH MOWER

Alessandro Michele tau ncaj ncees heev: Nws xav tau Parthenon hauv Athens rau nws Gucci Cruise qhia. Qhov ntawd yog qhov siab npaum li cas thiab pub dawb lub hom phiaj ntawm lub hom phiaj no nce siab hnub no. "Thaum pib, txhua yam pib hauv Mediterranean, Greek thiab Roman kab lis kev cai," nws hais. "Tab sis peb tsis tuaj yeem muaj Athens, yog li kuv tau mus rau kauj ruam tom ntej hauv kev vam meej, Renaissance, yog li peb tuaj ntawm no rau Florence, lub nroog zoo nkauj yav dhau los, qhov chaw uas muaj lub zog ntawm cov nyiaj loj. Zoo li," nws luag nyav, "Napa Valley tam sim no." (Ib tus nplaig ntawm tus nplaig: Silicon, peb xav.)

Qhov chaw me ntsis glitch tau hais tias Athenian cradle ntawm kev ywj pheej muaj ib qho kev khaws cia ruaj khov uas ua pov thawj impermeable txawm mus rau blandishments ntawm ib lub ntiaj teb lub mega zam hom nyob rau hauv kev tshawb fawb ntawm ib tug ultra-tshwj xeeb Resort lo lus uas peb. (PS: Tsim nyog, ntau npaum li cas ntxiv cov kev sib tw Cruise mus ncig ua si mus?) Yog li ntawd muaj Michele, daig nrog txoj kev npaj B: Palatine gallery ntawm Palazzo Pitti hauv Florence. Tsis tshua muaj shabby, tiag tiag, thaum nws tuaj yeem ua rau nws cov neeg tuaj saib taug kev hauv Uffizi, dhau los ntawm tag nrho cov Botticellis, Uccellos, thiab Piero della Francescas qhov teeb meem, hla Ponte Vecchio ntawm txoj kev zais zais ua los ntawm Medicis, thiab yog li nthuav tawm nws cov khoom sau hauv pem hauv ntej ntawm cov nyiam Elton John, David Furnish, Jared Leto, Beth Ditto, Kirsten Dunst, thiab Dakota Johnson.

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Cov vestiges ntawm cov ntsiab lus classical thaum ub tau pom meej - gilded wreaths, tiaras implanted nrog nyiaj lyres - tab sis dua, lawv tsuas yog ib feem ntawm qhov txawv tshaj plaw uas Michele ua rau thav duab thiab ua rau nws tus kheej ntawm cov cim. Muaj leopard-spot turbans, head scarves, woolly bandeaux, nerdy tinted spectacles, glittery-framed looj tsom iav dub, piled-up yuav luag-medieval hairpieces. Pearls tau woven rau hauv ntws tresses los yog, nyob rau hauv ib rooj plaub, fashioned mus rau hauv ib tug tag nrho-over kaus mom hlau nrog daig-on hlaws encroaching mus rau lub ntsej muag.

Michele's Italianate magpie qhov muag rau ntau tshaj thiab extravagance roams unfettered nyob rau hauv ib-paus xyoo, noj txhua yam los ntawm 60s psychedelic print palazzo pantsuits mus rau '70s-accented Renaissance revival gowns mus rau ntau yam capes, windowspane xyuas tweed tailoring, thiab sensable sab nraum zoov. Nws paub tias cov hauv qab no muaj zog npaum li cas rau txhua yam uas embroidered lossis sparkles. Lub caij no nws muaj glittery GG logo-luam tawm nruj nreem thiab thom khwm, hma-lub taub hau luam tawm thiab thaj ua rau thaj, thiab cov lus hais nyeem Gucci, Guccification, thiab Guccify Koj tus kheej.

Tam sim no muaj kev ua si thiab kev nco qab tus kheej-parody mus tam sim no. Dab tsi txwv nws los ntawm kev poob ntawm ntug mus rau thawj-degree literalness yog qhov txawv ntawm qhov txawv: Muaj ib yam dab tsi tsis kaj siab, yuav luag tsis muaj tuag, txog nws tus cwj pwm coj txawv txawv ntawm wan plaub muag-tsawg ntxhais thiab cov tub geeky. Muab tag nrho cov khoom sib dhos sib cais, thiab muaj cov khw muag khoom-tag nrho ntawm kev sib cais thiab cov khoom siv txuas ntxiv mus txuas ntxiv-dov ntawm hom no; tons rau cov poj niam thiab txiv neej, cov tub thiab cov ntxhais mus yuav rau hauv. Tej zaum tsis muaj qhov tseem ceeb ntawm kev nom kev tswv qhov tob mus rau ntawm no, tab sis muaj ib lub ntsiab lus uas cov neeg tuaj saib tsis tau khaws cia - vim tias lawv tau zaum ntawm nws. Michele muaj cov kab ntawm "Ib Zaj Nkauj Rau Bacchus," ib zaj paj huam sau nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua 15th los ntawm Lorenzo de 'Medici, embroidered rau cov quav thaum lawv zaum. "Peb cov Hluas zoo nkauj npaum li cas / Qhov ntawd ib txwm ya los ntawm peb / Leej twg yuav zoo siab cia nws ua li ntawd: / Tsis muaj dab tsi paub tseeb txog tag kis." Carpe tuag. Qhov ntawd yog qhov niaj hnub-tsim kev coj ncaj ncees rau peb feem coob niaj hnub no.

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