LONDON, Lub Ib Hlis 8, 2016
los ntawm LUKE LEITCH
Rov qab mus rau Hogwarts! Thawj qhov yeeb yam ntawm lub hli menswear yog txhua yam hais txog snap catch-ups-Dab tsi yog koj cov plaub hau? Puas yog kuv lub ntsej muag zoo li tsis txaus ntseeg? Tus kwvtij Jonas twg yog tus ntawd?—thiab nqhis dej rau thawj spoor ntawm lub caij tom ntej.
Gordon Richardson thiab nws pab neeg Topman Design tau xa ib phau nrog Oscar Wilde skater-tub vibe. Backstage, ntxiv categorizations tau pitched tuab thiab ceev, los ntawm grunge mus rau analogue rau kev ua kis las rau poj niam kom tsis txhob ntshai: Richardson ilved evaded lawv tag nrho. "Nws yuav tsum yog lub siab zoo rau tam sim no, tab sis txawm lo lus zoo rau qhov ntawd yog, kuv tsis paub."
Tshaj tawm Alessandro Michele, yeej. Topman thiab nws tus viv ncaus yog cov rhiab heev rau lub teeb pom kev zoo nkauj ntawm kev pom zoo; Ntawm no cov florals, lub tsho blousy hems siv los ua skirting nyob rau hauv lub tsho, nqaim waistcoats los yog robes, ntxiv rau cov anonymizing voluminous pam / duster coats, thiab lushly unorthodox xim palette tau kov los ntawm 2015 lub nu-Gucci nag xob nag cua. Muaj qhov zoo siab qhov tob rau pentimento txheej txheej ntawm cov txheej txheem kho kom zoo nkauj: Dévoré velor tau muab ob npaug rau luam tawm thiab watermarked.
Jackets featured nyuaj, txhais lub xub pwg nyom tab sis tsis muaj qauv hauv qab no. Lawv poob mus rau hauv lub cev kom ntxiv dag zog, maj mam fluted trousers, invariably tshaj suede khau ntaub nrog embroidered floral cov ntsiab lus. Lub silhouette nqus tau rov qab los ntawm lub duav siab-tarnished-tiav biker thiab shearling-collared thiab hnab tshos nylon blouson. Ib lub turmeric flared suit nyob rau hauv crushed velvet yuav zoo li ib tug nyuaj muag 18 lub hlis dhau los-tshwj xeeb tshaj yog rau ib lub hom raws li hluas li no ib tug-tab sis hnub no cov lus pom zoo li tsim nyog. Qhov xav tau ntau dua yog cov embellished ntxuav denim zoo nkaus li, tsuas yog kov loj, thiab cov fuzzy sov overcoats.