LONDON, Lub Ib Hlis 9, 2016
los ntawm ALEXANDER FURY
Nws tsis yooj yim los hais ntau thaum koj ntxhi, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog thaum txhua tus neeg nyob ib puag ncig koj ua suab nrov heev.Lou Dalton feem ntau zoo li qhov ntsiag to thaum nws los txog rau London menswear, nrog rau nws tsom mus rau cov ntaub zoo nkauj, cov tswv yim tsoos, thiab cov hom bog-txheej txheem tsoos tsho uas feem ntau tsis tuaj yeem pom qhov thib ob, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog thaum tawm tsam neon sweaters, lace pantaloons, thiab tiab rau cov txiv neej. Beau Brummell, qhov tseem ceeb ntawm cov txiv neej sartorial silence, yuav nyiam qhov Dalton ua. John Bull yuav tsis tig ib ncig ntawm txoj kev mus gawp ntawm ib lub tsho tiv no.
Tab sis dab tsi Dalton ua, thaum nws zoo tiag tiag, nce siab tshaj qhov fuss thiab muss ntawm ntau ntawm nws cov neeg sib tw. Nws ua rau lub caij nplooj zeeg, qhov twg nws ntsia mus rau Shetland: lub tsev ntawm cov sweaters, yog tias tsis yog tus tsim nws tus kheej. Txawm hais tias pom tau tias nws nyiam mus xyuas, thiab nyiam cov txiv neej nws pom muaj. Qhov kev sau no yog ib qho zoo rau tus neeg nuv ntses, tus neeg ua liaj ua teb, tus tub ruaj khov - tsuas yog nws tsis tau cua mus pw hav zoov lossis ua yeeb yam, tab sis lub ntiaj teb thiab tiag tiag, los ntawm cov khau khiab khau khiab mus rau lub puab tsaig ruddied (tom kawg saib xyuas ntawm MAC Cosmetics).
Raws li befits ib tug sau nplooj siab rau Shetland, lub knitwear, intricate tab sis tsis overpowering, yog ib tug muaj zog point, raws li yog cov xim palette. Qhov ntawd yog tag nrho Dalton tus kheej: Ib qho kev nco txog kev sib tsoo zoo yog lub tsho cerise nrog lub tsho loj loj plaid padded zoo li lub tsho khuam lub neej, ua ke tiv thaiv lub siab dav ntawm cov ntxhuav.
Lawv puas tau txais ntxhuav hauv Shetland? Tej zaum tsis yog. Lawv tau txais yaj, uas nws cov cim tau dhau los ua cov ntawv luam tawm digital thiab nws cov ntaub plaub tau siv los ntawm cov kws kos duab zoo nkauj British John Smedley los tsim merino polo-caj dab thiab ntev johns. Lawv kuj tau txais nag los ntau-Dalton lacquered tsho thiab siv cov ntaub da dej, ib daim ntaub uas kuv tsis tau hnov dua.
Kuv xav tias Dalton yog tus zais sartorial fetishist. Kuv tsis tau txhais hais tias nws nyob rau hauv cov hlua thiab nplawm, tab sis qhov nthuav ntau yam khoom, xws li kev xav nrog kev mob siab rau tweaks thiab cov ntsiab lus (tej lub xub pwg yuav luag infinitesimally, widening tailoring ib kov) los yog ib tug fixation ntawm cov khib cov ntaub ntawv. Ntau tus saib tsis yooj yim los ua haujlwm nrog-kev txiav cov tsho laminated yuav tsum yog qhov yooj yim xws li xaws ua ke cov hnab khib nyiab, hais tias-tab sis nws yog ib qho cim ntawm Dalton qhov kev txawj ntse uas nws mob zoo li hnav yooj yim. Tib yam tsis tuaj yeem hais txog teddy- dais fur, fluffed rau hauv sweatshirts (okay) thiab ris (tsis yog li ntawd). Lub tom kawg hu ua kom nco txog ib kab hauv qhov zoo 1994 Isaac Mizrahi documentary Unzipped, thaum Mizrahi sensibly nixes faux-fur jumpsuit nrog cov kab tsis txawj tuag: "Nws yog hais txog poj niam tsis xav zoo li nyuj, kuv twv."
Kwv yees li cas? Txiv neej tsis xav tau thiab. Lawv tua nyuj hauv Shetland, puas yog?