LONDON, Lub Ib Hlis 9, 2016
los ntawm NICK REMSEN
"Kuv tsis xav kom nws ua ib qho kev ntxeev siab pastiche," hais tias feem ntau antiestablishment Matthew Miller backstage ntawm nws lub caij nplooj zeeg qhia. "Kuv xav kom nws ua tau zoo dua, txawj ntse dua, qhov twg koj tsis lashing tawm ntawm lub ntiaj teb nrog lub nrig." Nws tau piav qhia txog kev sau lub tswv yim, uas tau xeeb los ua ib hom kev tshem tawm ntawm tus neeg saib xyuas qub (uas, dhau los, ua haujlwm zoo li ob npaug rau koj, vim Miller kuj tau npaj siab tias cov tiam tam sim no cov kev txawj ntse kev txawj ntse yog pilfered los ntawm cov chaw tuag - yog li, tub sab, ces ib rab phom). Kuj tseem muaj cov lus piav qhia ntxiv txog kev zoo nkauj sib xyaw ua ke ntawm lub sijhawm ntawd thiab tam sim no, tab sis txhua yam ntawm nws tau hloov mus ua qhov tsis meej pem rau cov khaub ncaws uas thaum kawg zoo nkauj ncaj.
Lub tsho shearling collar bomber tsho hnav tshaj ib qho nyiaj heathered zoo li topcoat nrog cov ris tsho zoo sib xws perked li plaub muag lossis ob sab hauv kab. Txawm li cas los xij, qhov zoo li tsis xav tias ntxeev siab, thiab tshwj xeeb tshaj yog sophisticated thiab ntse. Nws nyeem yooj yim raws li cov khoom sib xyaw ntawm wardrobe mus-tos. Ib yam yog qhov tseeb ntawm qhov zoo li topped nrog lub ncov lapel wool overcoat nyob rau hauv ib tag hmo xiav-yooj yim, ua tiav. Ntau qhov pom tseeb nods rau Miller lub qhov dej, zoo li kev rov ua dua ntawm Caravaggio's David Nrog Lub Taub Hau ntawm Goliath ntawm lub trench frayed, tsuas yog zoo li redundant (Givenchy ostensibly tswj qhov hnyav-tes duab-tsim-on-outsize-hnub lag luam), as opposed to revolutionary . Ironically, nyob rau hauv no lineup Miller cov khaub ncaws yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws thaum lub dissonance ntawm nws lub ntsiab thiab nws cov khaub ncaws yog loj tshaj. Nws ua rau ib tug xav txog kev sau nws yuav tsim yam tsis muaj kev sib cav sib ceg tom qab nws.