LONDON, Lub Ib Hlis 10, 2016
los ntawm ALEXANDER FURY
Tag nrho lub ntiaj teb zam tab tom sim xyuas seb yuav ua li cas nrog kev nrawm-ntau qhov sib sau ua ke xav tau ntau cov khaub ncaws. Qee cov neeg tsim qauv tau mob siab ua kom tso lub brakes. Lwm tus - zoo li Jonathan Anderson - tab tom vam meej. "Peb ua haujlwm hauv lub ntiaj teb ntawm kev nrawm," nws panted backstage tom qab nws ua yeeb yam. Qhov ntawd tsuas yog ib lub tswv yim hais los ntawm tus tsim qauv ntawm lub cacophony ntawm conceits xa ntawm xws li ib tug ceev-hluav taws clip nws sab laug breathless. Lwm tus suav nrog cov khoom xws li cov lus qhia faux, qhia cov dab neeg hauv nroog, "kev npau suav hauv khaub ncaws," thiab "morphing reality."
Txawm li cas los xij. Nws yog lub tswv yim ntawm kev ceev uas daig. "Koj yuav tsum ua kom nrawm," nws exhaled. Kev zam ceev tsis yog qhov tshwj xeeb: Peb cov kab lis kev cai tag nrho tau nce lub zog. Piv txwv li: Anderson tau xaiv los koom tes nrog Grindr los ua yeeb yam nyob hauv qhov yeeb yam no. Nws tau hais tias "Kuv tsis pom qhov txawv ntawm kev sib tham app thiab Instagram," nws hais. Tab sis cov lus hais saum toj no yog gay social-networking app khav theeb tus neeg siv ntawm 7 lab thiab paub zoo tshaj plaws rau kev tsis muaj kev sib koom ua ke-kev sib tham nrawm nrawm, koj yeej jettison lub "hnub tim." Lub caij no, nws cov yeeb yam tau nrawm heev uas cov neeg tuaj saib tseem raug thawb rau hauv lawv lub rooj zaum thaum thawj tus qauv pib khiav ntawm txoj kev khiav.
Yuav ua li cas articulate ceev hauv khaub ncaws? Nrog ob peb clichés, zoo li elongated zips, Velcro-tabbed boxing boot-style khau ntaub, taug qab ris, lub siab ntawm kev ua si nawv. Tab sis tsuas yog lub vaguest whiff, vim hais tias tus so yog mashed-up melange ntawm references thiab tswv yim. Qee tus ntawm lawv tau ua haujlwm - cov luav plaub uas zoo li tau xim los ntawm Stephen Sprouse li mob, muaj kab mob ermine (scarlet ntawm dub, xiav tawm tsam dawb) yog qhov tseem ceeb. Kev mob nkeeg feem ntau xav zoo: qhov tsis zoo ntawm daim tawv nqaij daj ntseg, liab qab hauv qab lub tsho tawv dub perforated; qhov tsis ncaj ncees lawm nthuav dav ntawm ib txhais ceg liab qab dangling provocatively nyob rau hauv lub tsho tiv no ntxhuav, staid bar ib S&M studded dab tshos. Puas yog Anderson xav txog Grindr cov neeg tsaus ntuj thaum nws ua rau cov no? "Lub tsho loj camel hla ib txhais ceg liab qab yog ib yam dab tsi uas kuv ib txwm nyiam," cooed Anderson, hais txog nws yooj yim npaum li cas los ua kom cov khoom niaj hnub saib tsis zoo ntawm nws cov ntsiab lus.
Cov ntsiab lus, ntawm Anderson cov yeeb yam, yog txhua yam. Nws yog tus kws saib xyuas ntse uas tso siab rau qhov sib piv rau qhov tshwm sim, rub tawm ntau yam kev xav zoo nkauj, sib xyaw ua ke, thiab rub lawv tawm hauv qhov xwm txheej tsis xav txog. Rub lub ntsej muag sib nrug thiab muaj lub sweater, cardigan, cov tsho tiv no cov ntxhuav uas muaj sia nyob ntawm kev hloov mus rau hauv lub neej niaj hnub. "Txhua lub caij peb thawb ib yam dab tsi," nws hais. "Koj yuav tsum tso cai rau koj tus kheej kom tau qee yam tsis raug."
Nws ua. Cov qwj, piv txwv li-glow-in-the-dub stickers raws li cov ntawv sau muab tso rau hauv lub nra-proliferated. Koj vam tias koj tuaj yeem tshem lawv tawm; lawv ntaus koj li dag, thiab lawv tshwm sim ntau dhau lawm. Anderson hais tias lawv yog cov liab herrings - "thaum lub cim tsis tas yuav ua rau muaj kev nkag siab," nws hais tias - parroting ib qho kev xav Miuccia Prada tshawb txog lub caij hnav khaub ncaws zaum kawg nrog nws lub tsheb sib tw thiab luav luav. Ib tug tuaj yeem nyeem tau rau hauv Prada cov cim tsis muaj ntsiab lus, ib yam nkaus, thiab niaj hnub no Anderson cov neeg saib xyuas tau muaj kev txhais, txawm tias nws xav tau lossis tsis ua. Lawv cim cov qwj lub nrawm - qhov qeeb ntawm lwm tus neeg tsim qauv, tej zaum, piv rau Anderson txoj kev sib tsoo? Nws nthuav tawm nws Loewe menswear sau hauv tsawg dua ob lub lis piam, tab sis tag nrho cov khoom tau ua tiav lub hli dhau los, nrog rau kev sib tw tua rau plaster thoob Paris. Incidentally, nws tiav, thiab yees duab, nws lub caij nplooj zeeg poj niam khaub ncaws twb, ib yam nkaus thiab. Nov yog ib txoj hauv kev los tiv thaiv kev zam tsis tu ncua: Tuav lub moos ua ntej nws ntaus koj.