LONDON, Lub Ib Hlis 10, 2016
los ntawm ALEXANDER FURY
James Long cov khaub ncaws yog qhov txiav txim siab tau saj. Muaj cov txiv neej ntawm nws cov kwv tij uas hlub nws Lurexes, nws cov xim-splattered denims, nws embroidered sweatshirts thiab rubberized leopards. Cov peacocks flamboyant tsis yog Long's loyal cov neeg muas zaub xwb tab sis nws inspiration rau lub caij nplooj zeeg 2016. "Local heroes," nws hu lawv, hais txog cov neeg zoo li tus kws kos duab Eddie Peake, uas nws cov hauj lwm feem ntau muaj xws li cov xim tsis zoo, vaguely scatological slogans, thiab ntau nudity. -nws tau ua qhov liab qab tsib-a-sab ncaws pob thaum kawm ntawm Royal Academy. Thaj, thaum hnav, Peak hnav ntev. Qhia rau cov neeg hloov siab los ntseeg? Thiab ces ib txhia.
"Thaum muaj ntau yam zam txog, kuv txiav txim siab saib cov neeg uas hnav kuv cov khaub ncaws tiag tiag," hais Long, tom qab lub rooj sib txoos uas, nyob ntawm koj qhov kev xav, yog jarring, los yog jubilant; nrov, los yog luxurious. Muaj ntau cov xov hlau, thiab lace, thiab fishnet, thiab zoo heev pileups ntawm psychotropic xim li trippy li opiate poppies uas flourished li prints thiab sweater intarsias. Siv buckles whirled rau hauv peb-dimensional resin roses. Cov plaub hau yog greased rov qab, ob lub qhov muag smeared nrog glitter, lub calf-high caij khau looj plab hlaub los ntawm Christian Louboutin tuaj nyob rau hauv multicolored kab txaij flecked nrog sparkle. Nws yog, nws yog qhov ncaj ncees hais, puv-on.
Cov ntsiab lus ntawm Peake txoj haujlwm - qhov tsis txaus ntseeg ntsib qhov kev qias neeg - zoo li lawv tau ntsib lawv qhov kev sib tw sartorial hauv Ntev. Nyob rau hauv qhov kev xav ntawm kev sib cais, ib qho kev hnav khaub ncaws ib leeg, koj tau nyiam saib Ntev txoj haujlwm tsis yog "zoo li," tab sis raws li tus kheej, cov khoom sib txuam uas tuaj yeem rub tawm ntawm lub zog tag nrho los ua hauj lwm hauv lub wardrobe ntawm ib tug neeg. txiv neej tsis yog ib feem ntawm tus tsim qauv nruj-knit niche ntawm (feem ntau East London) kiv cua.
Tab sis koj puas yuav thab? Qhov teeb meem nrog kev zoo nkauj zoo li Long's yog tias nws tuaj yeem ua rau muaj kev ntxhov siab thiab nyob deb ntawm tus neeg saib xyuas. Koj puas yuav ncua mus rau paw los ntawm kev tsheb ciav hlau ntawm cov xim-plastered jean tsho hauv chartreuse thiab caws pliav kom pom ib lub tsho tuxedo velvet lossis, tej zaum, ib khub ntawm slender, tsis ncaj ncees lawm tracksuit trousers? Los yog tsuas yog taub hau qhov chaw me ntsis yooj yim rau zom?
Ntev yog ib qho ntawm cov poj niam cov khaub ncaws ua haujlwm hnyav. Nws yog tus tshiab (ish) lub taub hau ntawm menswear ntawm Italian daim ntawv lo Iceberg, uas nws chaotic thiab muaj yeeb yuj trademarks haum nws zoo. "Kuv tsis xav rov hais dua kuv tus kheej," Long hais. "Qhov no yog kho tej yam tseem ceeb uas kuv nyiam." Ntev pom tau tias nyiam ntau yam khoom. Ib qho kev kho me ntsis, ironically, yuav tau mus ntev.