LONDON, Lub Ib Hlis 10, 2016
los ntawm ALEXANDER FURY
Qee cov ntawv sau yuav tsum tau sau phau ntawv sau, phau ntawv sau keeb kwm, thiab plaub teev hauv Wikipedia wormhole kom paub seb yuav muaj dab tsi tshwm sim. Minimalist artists thiab crypto-kev ntseeg txav, leej twg? Lwm tus yog qhov yooj yim thiab yooj yim, qee zaum ntau dhau.
KTZ ua raws li cov qauv hauv qab no: Lub suab paj nruag pib thiab cov qauv ntaus lub catwalk clad nyob rau hauv getups uas txawv me ntsis, tab sis txaus, los ntawm lub caij mus rau lub caij. Lub sijhawm no nws yog Kraftwerk ntsib Lavxias Futurism ntsib Asmeskas kev ua si nawv. Pom tseeb! Zoo, tsis yog qhov tseeb, tab sis kuv tau sau "baseball" thiab "eighties Gaultier," uas xyoo 1987 tau tsim Cyrillic-stamped sau sai sai hu ua Detente Chic nyob rau hauv nruab nrab ntawm thawing ntawm Tsov Txias.
Ntawm no, Amelikas tau tswj hwm ntau dua li lwm yam, los ntawm qhov qhib daim iav-embroidered zoo li hla Liberace nrog Bootsy Collins saum cov khau ncaws pob tau rub nrog lub platform soles. Lawv tau outré rau bowling clobber, tab sis mob li zoo li cov neeg taug kev versions ntawm Vivienne Westwood qhov tseem zoo tshaj plaws-muag Rocking Nees khau. KTZ tus tsim qauv Marjan Pejoski yog Westwood fanatic, xwm txheej: Lub xub pwg nyom ntawm ob peb ntawm nws cov tsho loj loj tau ncaj nraim tawm ntawm nws 1983 Witches sau.
Westwood tau tawm tsam Asmeskas kab lis kev cai imperialism, tab sis Pejoski pom tseeb puag nws. Nws cov tsho loj heev hauv tsev kawm ntawv qib siab, nrog varsity nthuav dav txiav rau hauv cov tsho loj lossis cov foob pob tawg yooj yim elongated. Ob peb tau stitched nrog cov tawv tawv-laced sutures uas feem ntau caws pliav ntawm qhov chaw ntawm baseballs. Baseball ris ua txhua hnub; kos npe kab txaij cim sweatshirts thiab intarsia fur scarves. Kraftwerk muab cov xim: liab, dub, dawb. Lavxias teb sab Futurism? Nah - ntau yim caum retro.
KTZ tsis tab tom nrhiav kom nthuav dav nws cov neeg siv khoom lag luam, lossis kev zam lub ntsej muag. Pejoski tau ua si rau cov neeg coob coob hauv tsev hmo no, uas nrov nrov nws pom zoo. Puas yog tus tshiab tsis tau pib? Zoo, saib kev ua si hauv baseball yam tsis paub txog cov cai, thiab tawm mus tsis muaj qhov ntse dua. Koj tsuas yog xaus rau me ntsis nkees, me ntsis dazed, nrog lub suab quaj los ntawm kev tig koj lub caj dab saib txhua tus tsis muaj qhov cuam tshuam txog.