MILAN, Lub Ib Hlis 17, 2016
los ntawm LUKE LEITCH
Massimiliano Giornetti lus raws li txhua qhov kev saib hauv phau ntawv no raws li khau tsim los ntawm nws tus tswv ntiav tus tsim uas yog ib zaug los ntawm Andy Warhol. Tus kws kos duab tau yuav ib nkawm Ferragamo oxfords-pom tsuas yog rau cov txiv neej khau style lub Bonito-yug khau maestro puas tau tsim-thiab hnav lawv los pleev xim rau hauv. Tom qab Warhol tuag, casa Ferragamo yuav Warhol cov khau, ua tiav nrog kev sib txawv ntawm qhov sib txawv. - xim xim spatters.
Kev tsim tawm ntawm cov ob npaug kov-los ntawm-genius oxfords yog li hauv qab txhua qhov saib ntawm no niaj hnub no. Nkawm khau loj mus rau hauv. Giornetti ua lub nrig ncaj ncees ntawm nws tab sis. Nws hais tias nws tab tom tshawb nrhiav cov lus hais ntawm sartorial classicism thiab fashion artistry. Qhov no tau muab txhais ua ib lub suite ntawm cov khaub ncaws uas tsis muaj qhov zoo nkauj thiab zoo nkauj nrog Giornetti txoj kev nyiam silhouette, pov tawm tsam knits thiab lub tsho uas rioted nrog kev invention.
Thawj qhov saib dawb mac sawv cev rau daim ntaub dawb huv uas txhua yam tom qab tau pleev xim rau. Lub sweater uas sib xyaw ua ke dub strata ntawm mink hla lub vaj huam sib luag dawb ntawm shearling nyob rau hauv ib lub vaj huam sib luag ntawm ib lub tsho dai kom zoo nkauj knitted sweater tsho hauv tawv yog virtuoso fabrication. Mario Giacomelli's saturated monochrome duab ntawm plowed teb txhais cov kev kho kom zoo nkauj ntawm ib tug zoo kawg nkaus tsis meej pem rippling bomber, thiab cov xim thiab chaos ntawm Egon Schiele qhov nthuav dav hauv paus poob qauv ntawm knitwear thiab tsho.
Tab sis tsis nco qab tag nrho cov "arty schmartery": vim hais tias, lub tsho tiv no. Mob hnyav sheened txiv ntseej nylon bombers thiab parkas lined nrog shearling; Japanese nylon thiab shearling bomber; ib tug peb-daim khaub ncaws ntawm duffels thiab plaub-collared coverts-tag nrho yog zoo kawg nkaus. Giornetti's suiting silhouette yog khob ntawm lub qhov rooj ntawm ob-xyoo-laus anachronism, thiab nws artist-hnyav xyaum tsis muaj ntshav-thiab-thunder ceev xav. Qhov nws muaj, txawm li cas los xij, yog qhov tseeb. Thiab pleev xim-spattered khau.