Los ntawm Miles Socha
Nws puas tsim nyog los qhia cov txiv neej thiab poj niam cov khoom sau rau ntawm tib txoj kev khiav? Ntau tus neeg tsim qauv ntawm no hauv Milan tau hais tias "yog," suav nrog Miuccia Prada, uas tau piav qhia nws lub siab nyiam: "Thaum ua haujlwm ntawm cov txiv neej cov khoom sau, kuv ib txwm nyiam thiab txaus siab tshawb nrhiav ntau txoj hauv kev sib txawv ntawm cov txiv neej thiab poj niam teb rau. tib lub tswv yim nrog kev ywj pheej tag nrho. "
Yog li tej zaum tag nrho cov kev sib tham thiab kev tuav tes ntawm txoj kev khiav qhia tau hais tias mus rau cov neeg siv khoom yog qhov siv tau. Cia peb mloog nws rau coed!
Prada yeej ua tau ib rooj plaub muaj zog nrog qhov tshwj xeeb qhia, ib qho ntawm nws cov txiv neej zoo tshaj plaws hnav tawm hauv xyoo. Thaum kawg qee qhov ntug-ntawm-koj-lub rooj zam thiab cov khoom sau uas tsis yog ntau haiv neeg tab sis kev xav-provoking thiab captivating nrog nws lub siab lub ntsws muaj zog.
Leej twg yog cov txiv neej thiab cov poj niam uas txaus siab rau hauv lawv lub kaus mom caij nkoj, cov tsho zoo nkauj zoo nkauj thiab cov khaub ncaws zoo ib yam, dab tshos thiab hoods cais tawm, nug thiab dangling? Dab tsi ntawm cua daj cua dub, lossis kev txom nyem, lawv puas huab cua?
Backstage, Prada tau hais tias nws tau xav txog qhov dav dav ntawm keeb kwm: Tsis yog kev coj noj coj ua yeej, tab sis "lub sijhawm phem thiab nyuaj" uas xav tau kev ua yeeb yam thiab kev mob siab rau kov yeej. Nws kuj tau xav txog "dab tsi tshwm sim tam sim no," hais txog kev ua tsov ua rog, kev kub ntxhov thiab kev kub ntxhov uas rhuav tshem lossis tshem ntau lab tus tib neeg. Nws cov yeeb yam, nws hais tias, yog cov khoom ntawm "sib xyaw, nyob rau hauv ib txoj kev kawm, tag nrho cov impressions thiab nrhiav ib txoj kev los ua tam sim no."
Nws koom tes nrog cov ntawv luam tawm nrog Christophe Chemin, tus kws kos duab Fab Kis uas paub me ntsis uas nws cov duab kos duab zoo nkauj - txaws rau ntawm Fifties camp tsho rau nws, romantic smocks rau nws - lo lus nug thiab keeb kwm remix. Piv txwv li, ib tug cwj mem xiav, hu ua "Tus Tseem Ceeb," muses ntawm koob meej, koom nrog Hercules, Sigmund Freud tuav ib tug stick, Nina Simone hauv hnab looj tes boxing thiab Che Guevara tuav ib tug Oscar.
Cov dluab tuab tuab no tau echoed nyob rau hauv qhov kev nplua nuj ntawm cov duab tshiab, kev sib txuas thiab cov ntsiab lus uas tau ua los ntawm ntau pawg ntawm cov ntoo particle board tsim los ua kom muaj kev ua yeeb yam lossis pej xeem square. Cov txiv neej hnav ntau yam kev hloov pauv ntawm kev hnav ris tsho naval, los ntawm cov tsho me me, lub duav-cinched lub tsho mus rau lub tsho loj thiab cov tsho zoo nkauj tub ceev xwm. Lub tsho flyaway thiab hoods - hauv lub tsho ntaub, tawv tawv lossis shearling-lined denim - zoo li 2016 version ntawm Prada's hit fur tippets of yore.
Raws li qhov kev ua yeeb yam tau nce mus, cov khaub ncaws tau txais cov khoom siv hauv tsev neeg thiab cov khoom siv hauv tsev xws li tes-knitted lossis shearling luj tshib thaj ua rau thaj. Rau feem ntau, Prada ua haujlwm ruaj khov thiab yooj yim cov ntaub ntawv: Tawv rau lub tsho popover thiab slouchy ris; denim rau slim coats los yog capes, thiab checkered wools rau snug, vaguely Seventies blazers. Cov ris tsho hnav tsis sib xws thiab qee zaum ua tsis taus pa nyob rau hauv txoj kev xav Prada.
Cov poj niam cov khaub ncaws ua tib zoo echoed lub wayward, windblown neeg tsav nkoj allure, sexed nrog siab heels thiab patterned tights. Muaj ib chav suite ntawm satin satin thiab velvet hnav ris tsho nrog Forties airs - lub xyoo caum lub zog sib sau ua ke lub caij nplooj zeeg ua ntej lub caij nplooj zeeg - tag nrho cov demure tsuas yog rau lawv qhib nraub qaum.
Nug backstage yog tias nws npaj siab ua yeeb yam lub suab tsis zoo, Prada teb nrog nws txoj hauv kev tsis zoo rau kev zam: kev txawj ntse tseem tsis txaus ntseeg. Nws teb tias, “Tub mob hnyav thiab mob siab rau tib neeg,” nws teb. "Kev sim nkag siab txog tib neeg txoj kev nyuaj thiab peb yuav tsum tau ntsib dab tsi thiab peb yuav tsum ua dab tsi. Tab sis kuj sim, kuv vam tias, ua kom nws zoo. "