MILAN, Lub Ib Hlis 18, 2016
los ntawm LUKE LEITCH
Peb pib nrog qhov kim kim, impressive, immersive projection ntawm ib tug snowy hav zoov tua los ntawm qhov pom ntawm ib tug neeg nyob rau hauv kev sib hloov, kiv taub hau. Ntawm lub suab seev, Björk Björk-ed, nrog rau tag nrho nws lub yeeb koob ethereal insistence. Puas yog peb tab tom ua pov thawj qee yam ntawm kev sib tsoo snow rau Abruzzo tailoring qhov zoo tshaj plaws? Tsis ntau. Qhov no yog ntau dua ntawm kev npau suav nruab hnub, Alpine projection los ntawm qhov siab qis mus rau qhov siab thiab rov qab dua - tag nrho ua ntej swb rov qab koj lub rooj.
Cov suits tau zoo nkauj, sculpted ntawm lub cev, nrog lub duav thawb siab kom elongate tag nrho. Peb pib nrog ib lub suite ntawm greys, tab sis tom qab ntawd txhaj tshuaj ntawm hiking khau es tsis txhob ntawm lub nroog khau taw rau ib qho kev nce mus rau pem hauv ntej. Cov xim hloov pauv-kev hloov ntawm lub nroog mus rau ntuj-mus rau hauv lub plawv plawv ntawm cov zaub ntsuab. Muaj ob qhov txawv txawv furs ntawm monochrome snippet grafted rau hauv herringbone. Peb tus txiv neej siab, tseem tseem saib nws cov qauv ib txwm muaj. Muaj ib hom kev ua yeeb yam smock thiab ib lub kaus mom Beuys-meets-Alpine uas tau hais lus ntxhi ntawm kev ua phem rau kev sib sau ua ke.
Backstage Brendan Mullane tau piav qhia txog cov txheej txheem ntawm sandblasting thiab overprinting, ntxiv thiab rho tawm uas tau siv rau cov khaub ncaws no kom qiv lawv cov pentimento qhov tob. Brioni yog lub hauv paus nyob rau hauv ib tug ntev-evolved formalism, ib tug exquisitely evolved daim npog qhov ncauj ntawm ib tug txiv neej. Tseem Mullane sim cov kev txwv ntawm no formalism thiab, raws li nws ua li ntawd, nrhiav pom tias nws tseem muaj ib co uncharted thaj chaw ua npau suav txog.