Los tom ntej no hauv Loewe Menswear Caij Nplooj Ntoos Hlav / Lub Caij Ntuj Sov 2021 Paris Show-in-a-Box txheej txheem, tus thawj coj muaj tswv yim Jonathan Anderson yuav coj peb los ntawm cov ntsiab lus tseem ceeb ntawm Lub Caij Nplooj Ntoos Hlav 2021 Txiv neej sau.
Jonathan Anderson qhov kev sib tham sib qhia hauv ib lub thawv rau Loewe siv lub ncuav mog qab zib, ua tiav nrog cov ntaub swatches, xim daim duab, lub teeb pop-up, thiab lub suab nrov nrov ntawm vinyl 45, yuav tsum tau ua si ntawm rickety cardboard player koj tig nrog koj lub forefinger. Nws yog txhua yam muaj nyob rau hauv ib lub thawv ntawv nyuaj, qhia txog Anderson lub hlwb zoo, thiab nws lub siab nyiam ua-nws-koj tus kheej thiab khoom siv tes ua.
Thumbing los ntawm cov ntaub ntawv grey, lub "Kev tshoov siab" tab harbors a yellowed leaflet piav txog rau daim duab, peb paintings thiab "soft light switch" sculpture los ntawm Claes Oldenburg uas tau tshoov siab Loewe lub caij nplooj ntoos hlav 2021 txiv neej hnav thiab poj niam sau ua ntej. (Tsis muaj cov duab ntawm cov duab kos duab, koj yuav tsum mus rau Google lawv.) Lawv nthuav tawm los ntawm 1600s mus rau Nineties thiab suav nrog ob daim duab Diego Velázquez ntawm tus txiv neej laus hauv cov khaub ncaws torn, thiab 1902 daim duab ntawm Fabkis tus kws ua las voos Loie Fuller, uas yog. kuj tau teev tseg raws li kev tshoov siab rau Valentino lub caij nplooj zeeg couture. Zam zoo li nyob rau hauv lub siab xav rau artful swirls ntawm ntaub.
Ib phau ntawv flip ntawm cov khoom sau nthuav tawm cov txiv neej lub tsho trenchcoat nrog zoo heev swags ntawm gabardine rau lub tes tsho uas ua tiav hauv cov khaub noom colossal ntawm cov ntaub nyob tom qab, zoo li daim ntawv haum draped los ntawm lub xub pwg nyom. Muaj ib tug whiff ntawm Pierre Cardin nyob rau hauv lub oddball ncig capes, tsho loj nrog portholes, thiab sweaters nrog hoop tes tsho. Feem ntau cov duab yog elongated thiab eccentric, nrog vaguely Renaissance airs. Cov khi-dye zoo li, pom tau hais tias nrog Japanese Shibori txheej txheem, khaws lawv cov wrinkles thiab dimples.
Hauv kev hu xov tooj Zoom, Anderson tau hais tias nws tau xaiv ntau yam khoom raws li kev txhawb nqa ntau yam khoom siv tes ua uas tau pom hauv cov yeeb yaj kiab online. "Fashion yuav tsum ua siab ncaj rau lub sijhawm tom ntej," nws shrugged, kuj piav txog lub hnab li "ncaj nraim thiab ncaj qha."
Nug txog cov txiv neej txoj kev lag luam, nws teb tias: "Peb tau muaj zog heev nyob rau lub sijhawm no."
Cov poj niam pre-collection, rho tawm lub kooky Space Age sweater dresses nrog lawv cov tiab hoop thiab lub tes tsho, tsuas yog ravishing. Ntev, qhwv-style dresses, maj mam bulging ntawm ib lub duav, yog haib heev. Ditto lub gauzy dawb dresses nrog ilv smocking los yog phuam qhwv caj dab, thiab shearling coats nrog loj portrait dab tshos.
Anderson pings ntawm soigné nqaij nrog cov ntsiab lus eccentric - ntawm no cov ris tsho dub nrog cov dej tsaws tsag ntawm cov xim raffia los ntawm ib lub duav - thiab kev sim ntau dua, suav nrog cov ris loj heev thiab droopy tsuas yog tawv tawv tuaj yeem tuav lawv. Qhov ntawd yog qhov ua rau nws zoo li tus neeg tsim qauv ntxim nyiam.
Thiab nrog rau txoj haujlwm no, accentuated nrog cov yeeb yaj kiab ib teev nyob rau hnub Sunday yog li txhua lub sijhawm hauv cheeb tsam tuaj yeem koom nrog, Loewe dhau los ua tus tsim muaj txiaj ntsig zoo ntawm cov ntsiab lus, ua siab dav nthuav tawm dab tsi hauv lub taub hau ntawm nws tus thawj coj muaj tswv yim thiab cia tib neeg koom nrog nws cov kev tsim. Ib lub tab ntawm lub thawv tso rau ib daim ntawv qauv rau kev saib No. 23, thiab yog tias qhov ntawd ua haujlwm ntau rau koj, koj tuaj yeem tsim cov thawv ntawv los ntawm cov khaub ncaws rau ntawm daim ntawv bust, lossis cov looj tsom iav dub uas tau luam tawm thiab kos rau ntawm daim duab los qhia. . Cov peepholes tej zaum yuav tsis nyob nrog koj lub qhov muag, tab sis qhov ntawd zoo li Anderson lub ntsiab lus: Nws xav kom peb pom tej yam txawv.
Nws tau hais tias "Koj yuav tsum tsim kev sib tham nrog cov neeg tuaj saib nrog kev txo hwj chim ntau dua," nws hais tias, lub sijhawm kaw tau muaj neeg feem coob ua ntau yam nrog lawv txhais tes, txawm tias ua noj lossis xaws khaub ncaws.
"Kuv xav tias tib neeg xav tau kev sib koom siab tam sim no," nws hais. "Tib neeg tsis xav tau veneer."