PARIS, Lub Ib Hlis 20, 2016
los ntawm LUKE LEITCH
"Nws yog tiag tiag txog kev nrhiav ib yam dab tsi txiv neej, khov kho, ruaj khov, thiab qee zaum me ntsis sensual." Christophe Lemaire cov lus qhia ntawm qhov kev sau no tuaj yeem siv rau tag nrho Lemaire project. Niaj hnub no lub pneumatic roj hmab squeak ntawm nws pared-down Suav slipper-ish twj tso kua mis tiv thaiv lub marble pem teb ntawm nws palatial Paris venue nicely prefigured ib pab pawg neeg ntawm tsoos tsho uas sib tov codes siab thiab qis rau hauv ib tug dreamily seamless tag nrho.
Lub silhouette ntawm nws tag nrho-tailoring zoo nkaus li nyob rau hauv nruj-woven wool echoed hais tias ntawm lub caij nplooj ntoos hlav '16: unlined, mos-lub xub pwg tsho tshaj lub dav ris txiav tsuas millimeters saum lub pob taws ntawm cov twj. Shetland tweed topcoat ua ke oat-y rusticity nrog sharply sau luxuriousness los ntawm kev ceev faj. Cov tsho ua haujlwm hauv cov paj rwb-paj sib xyaw ua ke ci ci nrog lub ntsej muag lush accentuated los ntawm denim daim uas lawv feem ntau ua los ntawm; Lemaire lub tsho flannel mos yog ib tug tub rog ntawm kev ua haujlwm ntau dua, tab sis tsuas yog NW nyuam qhuav xwb. Lub ironed crease ntawm nws lub duav-siab-siab qhiav denim ris - ris tsuas yog tsis heev txiav nws - yog ib tug endearingly fastidious nthuav dav. Ib lub tsho hoodless duffle thiab lub tsho loj-down-down luav nyob rau hauv exfoliatingly scrunchy navy wool, nrog rau zoo li-zoo li-shearling bouclette wool tsho tiv no nyob rau hauv ib tug milky-coffee xim av, tau yug los ntawm kev koom tes nrog Gloverall, lub British outerwear tuam txhab uas muag. lub duffle: Tag nrho peb ua ke kev zoo nkauj thiab butchness. High-hemmed dawb ris tshaj ci dub khau looj plab hlaub zoo li ib nrab-literal homage torue-lurking mecs yav dhau los-pib, nws yog ib yam Fabkis-tab sis zoo nkauj npaum li cas lwm yam ntawm no yog ntxim hlub, ntxim hlub, ntxim hlub.