Los ntawm Katya Foreman
Cov txiv neej tiab tau dhau los ua qhov pom kev tsis tu ncua ntawm txoj kev khiav, tab sis lawv yeej tsis tau lim mus rau lub neej tiag tiag. Tab sis raws li qhov tshwm sim ntawm poj niam txiv neej-kua dej txuas ntxiv mus rau crescendo, Thom Browne tau hais lus sib cav rau yav tom ntej uas tej zaum yuav tsis nyob deb uas cov txiv neej yuav tig mus rau qhov chaw ua haujlwm - lub hnab ntawv hauv tes - hauv cov khaub ncaws classic, Richelieu pob taws thiab cov thom khwm ua lag luam.
“Koj pib ib txoj hauv kev zoo li menyuam yaus, tab sis vim li cas koj thiaj li tsis tuaj yeem xaiv koj tus kheej txoj hauv kev uas tsis yog cov neeg coj noj coj ua qhia koj txoj kev mus rau qhov twg? Nws yog hais txog kev qhib siab los ua lub neej raws li koj xav tau, "said tus tsim qauv backstage.
Browne tau xaiv lub tshav puam ntawm Palais des Études ntawm École des Beaux-Arts raws li qhov chaw ua yeeb yam, nrog nws cov plaster casts ntawm ancient Roman pej thuam thiab soaring iav thiab cam khwb cia hlau ru tsev. Nws lub suab nrov nrov yog "Lub Maze," tsim los ntawm tus kws sau nkauj David Motion thiab tus thawj coj Sally Potter rau nws xyoo 1992 kev ua yeeb yaj kiab ua yeeb yaj kiab ntawm Virginia Woolf's tshiab, "Orlando," ua yeeb yam Tilda Swinton ua ib tug poj niam txiv neej-hopping nobleman.
Thom Browne Menswear Caij Nplooj Ntoos Hlav 2018 Paris
Tawm streamed cov qauv nyob rau hauv suits tsho, tiab thiab hais tias khau, txhua lub sij hawm ncua ib pliag mus saib forlornly ntawm lub marble thiab iav txee nyob ib nkawm khau golden me nyuam. (Ib khub ntawm Richelieus golden zaum hauv lub txee ntawm txoj kev khiav.)
Browne nyiam rau rauj hauv tsev nws cov lus, ntawm no xa tawm qhov kawg smorgasbord ntawm lub tsho thiab tiab tiab ua si ntawm qhov sib luag thiab sib xyaw cov ntaub ib txwm muaj, hauv ib phau ntawv uas tau tshaj tawm kev sib xyaw ntawm cov tub ntxhais kawm ntawv / tsev kawm ntawv tub thiab tus tub lag luam. (Lub luv pleated tiab zoo li yog ntshiab Britney Spears.)
Pairings mus los ntawm seersucker tiab thiab pin-striped ib leeg-breasted tsho rau ib pab tub rog sib txuas ib tug ntev grey pleated tiab nrog ib tug cropped navy blazer luam nrog golden dachshunds. Kuj tseem muaj qhov hnav ris tsho khib, nrog rau ib qho hauv ib qho kos npe grey tailoring ntaub nrog American chij accents, nrog superlong shirttails extending hauv qab feem ntau ntawm cov zoo li.
Yog hais tias muaj ib tug comedy lub sij hawm, nws yog tus yeeb yam kaw nkauj nyab thiab nraug vauv, ib tug txiv neej hnav khaub ncaws nyob rau hauv ib tug hnav ris tsho fusing ib tug shrunken dub tux nyob rau hauv pem hauv ntej nrog ib tug dawb lace nkauj nyab hnav ris tsho nyob rau tom qab.
Nug yog tias tag nrho cov tiab yuav ua rau kev lag luam sau, Browne, uas quiped nws tus kheej tiab yog "tawm tom qab," hais tias: "Txhua yam ntawm nws tau muab. Kuv xav tias nws zoo li tsis txaus ntseeg, nws yeej tsis yog rau txhua tus, tab sis yog tias kuv pom ib tus neeg taug kev hauv txoj kev uas kuv xav paub tias tus neeg ntawd yog leej twg. "