PARIS, Lub Ib Hlis 23, 2016
los ntawm LUKE LEITCH
Militaria hackneyed? Tsis yog Acne. Tom qab pom cov khoom ntawm Swedish cov tub rog tshaj tawm ntawm txoj kev, Jonny Johansson ntsia rov qab rau cuaj lub hlis nws tau siv ua tub rog thaum nws tseem hluas. Nws hais tias, "Feem ntau kuv tau khov kuv lub nroog Yeiuxalees," nws hais tias, "pw hauv qab daus hauv hav zoov." Thaum nws ua haujlwm rau nws lub tebchaws, Johansson tau tshaj tawm cov khaub ncaws uas muaj hnub tim xyoo 1940. Rau qhov kev cuam tshuam hauv qab no tau sib xyaw xim liab, lavender, ib daim duab ribbon squiggle, thiab qee qhov zoo nkauj eyelet nthuav dav uas txhua tus tau kos los ntawm Västerbottensdräkten, cov pej xeem hnav ris tsho tshwj xeeb rau canton ntawm Swedish Lapland uas tus tsim qauv siv sijhawm kaum xyoo ntawm nws thaum yau.
High-waisted, ob-pleated tapered ris-zoo heev-los yog patch-pocketed tub rog ris tau hnav nyob rau hauv txo qis greatcoats, haum micro peacoats, thiab maxi luav tsho. Lub tsho snap-pem hauv ntej lavender suede tau muab tso rau hauv qab padded gilet thiab saum lub tsho ntev-skirted hauv qhov zoo li txiv ntseej flannel lossis xav. Ib tug xov tooj ntawm cov khau tau xav paub ntau tshaj - kev lom zem, grafted loafer-sock hybrids. Muaj me ntsis ntawm grey tailoring hauv nano-herringbone nrog kev ntxhov siab nthuav dav ntawm nws cov seams. Qee qhov kev nthuav dav ntawm cov xim zoo nkauj - yog tias camouflage tsuas yog ntawm kev sib tham ntawm extroverts - zoo li cov ris tsho tawv tawv uas tau tawm tsam txiv kab ntxwv mohair thom khwm.