Openness, lightness thiab decontraction. Txiv neej lub caij ntuj sov 2022 runway show. Sau los ntawm Véronique Nichanian, qhia los ntawm Cyril Teste.
Staged los ntawm Cyril Teste, cov txiv neej lub caij ntuj sov 2022 sau exudes huab cua ntawm so-heartedness thiab kev ywj pheej. Precise innovation tuav kev sib tham nrog cov cuab yeej cuab tam luam tawm uas nthuav tawm dévoré, plooj thiab perforated motifs, hloov pauv siv cov txheej txheem niaj hnub.
"Nws yog tus cwj pwm tshiab, thiab nws nthuav." Thaum nws hais li no, Véronique Nichanian tab tom tham txog ib qho kev nthuav dav micro-styling (cov thom khwm tsaus nti peeking dua khau khiab tshis hauv qab elongated Bermudas). Txawm li cas los xij, nws Zoom-xa cov lus saib ua ntej tau siv ib yam nkaus rau tag nrho ntawm qhov tshwj xeeb Hermès menswear collection. Nws tau tshwm sim yav tav su no hauv lub tsev thawj zaug rov qab mus rau Auguste Perret-tsim lub tshav pob zeb ntawm Mobilier National txij thaum Lub Rau Hli 22, 2019 (hnub ntawm nws lub caij nplooj ntoo hlav dhau los). Tsis tas li ntawd ua kom rov qab yog tus thawj coj ua yeeb yam zoo nkauj Cyril Teste, rau nws zaj yeeb yaj kiab thib peb / défilé kev koom tes nrog Nichanian ua ke.
Raws li lub caij dhau los, Teste's screen-displayed lingering zooms thiab du pans tau tso cai rau cov neeg saib los ntawm qhov deb-kuv suav nrog-rau ib feem rov tsim dua lub neej tiag tiag uas kuv tau piav qhia thaum ntawd thaum "koj ob lub qhov muag rov qab mus los tsim cov lus piav qhia ntawm jagged thiab episodic ntawm kev xaav uas yog koj li los tswj." Qhov sib txawv niaj hnub no yog tias tseem muaj cov neeg tuaj saib tiag tiag ntawm tes, saib qhov no tiag tiag livestream (ntau tus tsis yog), thiab siv lawv lub qhov muag. Raws li Nichanian hais tias: "Nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb rau kuv tsis txhob muaj ib zaj duab xis ua yav dhau los nrog ntau montage ... nws yog lub neej tiag tiag nrog cov neeg tiag tiag saib ntawm txoj kev."
Tom qab lub sijhawm uas lub neej tau hnov zoo li tsis muaj tseeb, lub neej tiag tiag yog qhov tseeb. Kev sau tau nruj, suav nrog 41 qhov zoo nkaus li: "Kuv nyiam tsis muaj khaub ncaws ntau dhau, tab sis kom muaj qhov zoo," Nichanian hais. Thaum xub thawj siab ib muag nws tshwm sim yooj yim. Txawm li cas los xij, qhov ntau koj tso cai rau koj lub qhov muag mus ncig thiab ncig nws, qhov ntau qhov txawv tshaj plaw, camouflaged nyob rau hauv qhov pom tau tias zoo tib yam, tau tshwm sim.
Nichanian hu ua phau ntawv no "Double-Jeu," lossis "Double Game," thiab hais tias ntau txoj hauv kev. Ntau yam ntawm cov khaub ncaws sab nrauv, suav nrog qhov qhib, tau ua nyob rau hauv panels ntawm gabardine sib piv nrog "spinnaker," los yog canvas, uas yog vividly xim thiab kho nrog zig zag stitching rau echo lub caij dawb ntawm kev caij nkoj, ib qho kev tshoov siab tom qab ntawm tus tsim lub siab. Ib qho nyuaj rau pom ntawm txoj kev khiav, ntawm peb Zoom, thiab txawm tias hauv Teste txoj kev hlub ze-ups yog qhov kev xav zoo ntawm cov cuab yeej cuab tam ob txheej Mors thiab Gourmettes luam, qee qhov dawb-on-dawb, thiab qee zaum cov txheej txheem sib txuas ntxiv los ntawm kev sib ntxiv ntawm Perforated Hermès Quadrige equine nyem. Feem ntau ntawm cov khoom tau thim rov qab, muab ob npaug ntawm tus nqi thiab ib qho duality ntawm cov khoom siv tau zoo. Cov no suav nrog reversible parkas; ib qho tshiab txuas ntxiv ntawm Nichanian lub caij nyoog kawg ob lub tsho zoo nkauj nrog ntau lub tsho sab hauv; daj ntseg ntsuab blouson nyob rau hauv mos crocodile; thiab qhov kawg-zoo zippered tsho (uas, inverted, yog ib tug hardware free, ntau dialed-down tshaj tawm).
Cov khaubncaws sab nraud povtseg sib nrug, muaj qhov pom ntawm lub ntuj nyob rau hauv abstracted intarsia daisy nyem knitwear, hnyav eruptions ntawm cov xim nyob rau hauv dégradé txiv kab ntxwv thiab paj yeeb cashmere sweaters, thiab softer interludes uas muaj ib tug sail-stitched tsho thiab Bermuda pawg nyob rau hauv blushy liab lambskin. Txuas mus rau lub suab nrov tshaj plaws ntawm lub ntsiab lus, kev caij nkoj, cov hlua khi tau tsim los ntawm txoj hlua thiab ntau lub hnab tau txiav hauv cov ntaub pua chaw zoo li tawv. Nrog rau cov khau khau khiab no, kuj tseem muaj qee cov khau tawv khau khiab khau, khau khiab, thiab khau khiab khau khiab.
Nichanian cov khaub ncaws yog cov txiv neej zoo nkauj facades uas tso cai rau lawv qhov tshwj xeeb kom nyob twj ywm hauv qhov pom tseeb rau txhua tus tsuas yog cov uas muaj lub zeem muag pom. Raws li nws hais tias: "Nws yog hais txog kev qhib koj tus kheej mus rau txoj kev tshiab pom. Ua si, thiab rov ua dua tshiab. Vim peb yuav tsum muaj ntau lub neej, muaj ntau yam. Thiab kuv ib txwm nyiam kev ncaj ncees ntawm kev ua ib yam dab tsi tsis muaj lub logo loj. "
Cov lus qhia yog, yog lawm, uas taug kev ncig nrog lub npe ntawm koj lub hauv siab, hnab, lossis khau nthuav tawm qhov chaw tab sis tsis txhob tob. Nws hais ntxiv tias: “Ntawm no ntawm Hermès, Kuv tsis ua zam, kuv ua khaub ncaws. Thiab kuv tab tom ua lawv txoj hauv kev uas kuv vam tias yuav txhawb nqa peb cov kev paub dhau los thiab pab nws hloov mus. " Qhov no yog ib phau ntawv uas tau hu kom nco ntsoov dab tsi Antoine de Saint-Exupéry hauv Le Petit Prince tau piav qhia tias "ib qho yooj yim zais cia: Nws tsuas yog nrog lub siab uas ib tus tuaj yeem pom tau raug; dab tsi yog qhov tseem ceeb yog qhov muag tsis pom. " Nws yog tus cwj pwm tshiab, thiab nws tau nthuav.
