los ntawm ALEXANDER FURY
Fausto Puglisi cov khaub ncaws ua tau raws li qhov tseeb, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog kev xav ntawm "Italian" zam: hnyav heev, dai kom zoo nkauj, floridly patterned, ci xim, thiab, rau ntau, tsuas yog me ntsis ntau dhau. Nws nyob hauv tsev hauv Florence, nrog nws cov palazzi ornate thiab nplua nuj backdrops ntawm Renaissance masterpieces.
Incongruously, Puglisi xaiv los qhia nyob rau hauv ib tug disused tsheb ciav hlau chaw nres tsheb. Tej zaum qhov ntawd yog vim nws tau txiav txim siab muab cov khoom dai - lub cev ntawm lub cev, txiv neej thiab poj niam, zoo li Roman frieze, tsa rau ntawm lub plinth thiab hnav khaub ncaws hauv nws qhov khoom plig tshiab kawg. Ntawd yog, nws qhov chaw Resort sau rau nws, thiab nws cov khaub ncaws ua ntej rau lub caij nplooj ntoos hlav 2017. Lawv zaum ua ke zoo kawg nkaus, nyob rau hauv lub ntiaj teb tshwj xeeb ntawm ntau tshaj uas Puglisi occupies, zoo li Michelangelo mural ntawm Las Vegas, los yog cov thaum ntxov-'90s multi-model Gianni. Versace campaigns tua los ntawm Richard Avedon. Cov poj niam hnav luv luv, razzle-dazzle dresses nyob rau hauv multihued florals nrog jutting skater tiab los yog cov khaubncaws sab nraud povtseg ntawm pleats uas Puglisi tau thov raws li nws tus kheej (bar ib tug kev sib cav nrog uas aforementioned Versace legacy). Cov txiv neej txhua tus zoo li zoo li embodiments ntawm yav qab teb Italian machismo - ntau tshaj li ob peb lub hwj txwv, coj tus cwj pwm zoo li Puglisi nws tus kheej.
Nws ntsia me ntsis incongruous - tab sis qee qhov tsis yog qhov tseeb. Koj tuaj yeem tam sim ntawd thiab pom tseeb hais txog Puglisi cov khaub ncaws hnav rau Versace, tab sis kuj rau qhov zoo nkauj tshiab uas tau muab los ntawm Olivier Rousteing ntawm Balmain. Ob daim ntawv lo ua lag luam nrawm rau cov txiv neej-thiab yog cov neeg tsawg ntawm cov ntsia hlau.
Nug Puglisi vim li cas nws thiaj xaiv tam sim no los qhia cov txiv neej, thiab nws shrugs. "Kuv tab tom tham nrog Selfridges, los yog Bergdorf Goodman, los yog Joyce, los yog Lane Crawford," nws hais tias, ticking tawm plaub ntawm nws cov stockists loj tshaj cov suab paj nruag blasting uas nrog nws Pitti Uomo nthuav qhia. “Lawv hais tias, ‘Yuav ua li cas txiv neej? Vim tias muaj ntau tus txiv neej tab tom yuav koj cov poj niam loj dua cov khoom. ' ” Muaj qhov pom tseeb qhov chaw rau ib qho kev tsis txaus ntseeg ntau tshaj plaws, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog nyob rau hauv Italian zam toj roob hauv pes, txawm hais tias koj tsis tau xav txog Puglisi los ua tus tsim qauv kom tau txais cov khaub ncaws tshiab ntawm poj niam los txiv neej-tsis txawv txav. Tshwj xeeb tshaj yog raws li nws lub zeem muag ntawm txiv neej thiab poj niam-cov txiv neej ua qauv hauv cov khaub ncaws ua kis las piv rau A-line skirted, high-heeled poj niam-zoo li sib nrug li GI. Joe thiab Barbie.
Txawm hais tias cov txiv neej uas yuav plhaub tawm cov nyiaj loj rau cov poj niam hnav ris tsho zoo nkauj yog, txawm tias niaj hnub no, ob peb thiab nyob deb, muaj cov txiv neej uas yuav raug rub mus rau Puglisi txoj kev hnav khaub ncaws tsis zoo. "Cov txiv neej ntau lub sij hawm yog dawb dua," yog vim li cas tus tsim. "Ib tug poj niam xav tias, 'Kuv puas yog nqaij qaib txaus? Kuv sexy heev?’ Tus txiv neej: Yog tias koj nyiam, koj hnav nws. " Yog tias koj nyiam Puglisi, koj yuav tau hnav lub tsho foob pob tawg nrog nws kos npe gilt embroideries ntawm cov ntses hnub qub thiab cov plhaub, caj dab nrog cov pob zeb hnyav, T-shirts stamped nrog cov duab ntawm Roman vajtswv lossis Centurion kaus mom hlau, thiab cov khau khiab gladiator studded nrog medallions, qhwv. siab rau ntawm txhais ceg hauv luv luv luam tawm nrog hothouse blooms los yog shredded denims.
Nws yog, nws yog qhov ncaj ncees hais, txhua yam yuav luag me ntsis ntau dhau. Puglisi hais tias "Kuv tsis mloog dab tsi zoo saj thiab saj tsis zoo," Puglisi hais. Thiab muaj ib yam dab tsi yuav tsum tau hais txog yuav ua li cas tag nrho lub siab ntsws thiab tag nrho-throttle Puglisi plunges mus rau hauv cov style ntau yuav pab pawg kom meej nyob rau tom kawg. Nws kuj yog kev ntseeg. Nyob rau hauv ib txoj kev coj txawv txawv, nws yooj yim dua rau pom cov neeg siv khoom rau nws cov khaub ncaws hnav tshaj li rau nws cov poj niam, yog li nws tuaj yeem yooj yim tuaj yeem rub tawm mus rau hauv ib nqe lus khoom - embellished bomber, embellished luv, embellished T-shirt - thiab ua ke nrog lwm yam (xav tias, tsawg embellished) yam. Tej zaum qhov ntawd yog vim tus txiv neej Puglisi tsis zoo li nws tus poj niam. Koj yuav tsis mloog ob peb yam ntawm nws yooj yim dua, roomier tsho slipstreaming rau hauv nws cov poj niam khaub ncaws collections, qhov twg saib overtly sexy yog tsawg ntawm kev ntshai, ntau dua ntawm kev lees paub. Tab sis tej zaum qhov xwm txheej yuav raug thim rov qab hauv cov khw muag khoom siab; koj tuaj yeem xav txog tias tus poj niam Puglisi dipped rau hauv tus txiv neej lub khaub ncaws rau cov pob zeb-studded bombers.