Nyuam qhuav pib lub xyoo no, Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation tau hu rau Raf Simons. Lawv nug seb nws puas xav ua haujlwm nrog lawv ntawm ib yam dab tsi. Nws hais tias yog. Qhov ntawd yog qhov luv luv ntawm zaj dab neeg tom qab sau nws tau nthuav tawm ntawm Pitti Immagine Uomo, zoo kawg nkaus chimed nrog duo ntawm Mapplethorpe exhibitions ntawm LACMA thiab Getty Tsev khaws puav pheej, thiab HBO documentary subtitled Saib cov duab. Nws yog lub sijhawm zoo. Thiab Simons yog tus kiv cua Mapplethorpe, yog li nws yog tus kws kos duab zoo. "Kuv tau qhuas," Simons hais tom qab nws ua yeeb yam, nws lub suab vibrating nrog kev xav. Yog li nws tau tso tseg lub tswv yim uas nws tau ua haujlwm rau kev sau (nws yuav tsis qhia tias nws yog dab tsi; nws yuav, nws hais tias, tawm hauv qhov yeeb yam tom qab) thiab pib nws txoj kev sib koom ua yeeb yam tshiab.
Feem ntau, thaum Simons ua haujlwm nrog ib tus kws kos duab, nws los ze rau lawv. Lub sijhawm no, dynamic tau hloov me ntsis. Lub siab dawb paug ntawm Mapplethorpe Foundation qhov kev thov yog tshwm sim hauv kev ua siab zoo ntawm Simons txoj kev txhais: Tsis muaj ib qho hnav ris tsho hauv Simons's Spring 2017 qhia uas tsis muaj cov duab luam tawm ntawm Mapplethorpe. Nws cov poj niam curly-haired txiv neej ua qauv, nrog rau cov tawv tawv tawv biker lub kaus mom, feem ntau ua rau muaj qhov zoo sib xws rau tus kws yees duab nws tus kheej-txawm tias Simons tau hais tias, tsis yog tus kws kos duab doppelgängers, "txhua tus tub yog tus sawv cev ntawm ib qho haujlwm." Txhua tus tuaj yeem yog tus neeg saib xyuas Mapplethorpe. Cov tsho luv luv muaj qhov ntxoov ntxoo ntawm Mapplethorpe lub npe nrov muse Patti Smith ntawm nws lub Nees album cover. Robert Sherman, tus qauv uas nws alopecia ua rau nws cov tawv nqaij kwv yees li marble nyob rau hauv nws ntau portraits tua los ntawm Mapplethorpe, kuj tau mus koom qhov yeeb yam. Simons yuav tsum tau tshem tawm cov cai thib peb nrog txhua tus neeg zaum ua ntej rov tsim lawv cov duab. Nws pib kev sib tham uas ua rau muaj kev nkag siab ntawm Simons txoj haujlwm hauv Mapplethorpe txoj haujlwm.
Uas tau hais tias, tus kws kos duab zaum rau nws tus kheej ntau heev. Mapplethorpe yog tus cwj pwm ntxim nyiam, thiab kos duab yog inextricable los ntawm tus txiv neej. Simons hais tias, "Yog tias koj xav txog kev ua haujlwm, nws muaj ntau heev txog nws," thiab, qhov tseeb, nws muaj ntau heev txog cov khaub ncaws uas nws hnav, thiab. Ntawm kev taug kev ntawm kev sib deev tus kheej nrhiav pom, ntau ntawm Mapplethorpe thawj cov duab yog Polaroid tus kheej-portraits, trussed nyob rau hauv tawv iav, kuaj cov kev txwv ntawm kev txaus siab thiab mob. Tom qab ntawd, nws tau sau nws tus kheej fetishes kev sib deev; tawv scene thiab BDSM feem ntau. Khaub ncaws yog ib qho tseem ceeb ntawm cov khoom siv: Ntawm ib qho taw tes, Mapplethorpe pib ncab nws tus kheej (hnav) ris tsho hauv qab hla ntoo thav duab los ua cov duab puab tsis zoo; Tom qab ntawd, nws hnav nws tus kheej hauv cov tawv dub.
Simons paub txhua yam ntawd. Yog li qhov tseeb nws txoj kev hwm rau Mapplethorpe tau ua tib zoo sib npaug, yog li mob siab rau thiab muaj tseeb. Lub subtlety ntawm Simons ntau cov ntaub ntawv qhia qhov tob - nws palette ntawm dub; dawb; cov nqaij tawv nqaij ntxoov ntawm crimson, liab, thiab ntshav; thiab burgundy ntawm coagulated ntshav; tawv dungarees glinting nrog hlau buckles. Simons siv ob tav su pawing los ntawm Mapplethorpe archives ntawm cov nplooj ntawv sib cuag. Nws tawm tsam nrog cov lus Askiv los piav txog cov no: Nws hu lawv tias "daim ntawv qhia," uas yog qhov nthuav dav thiab kev xav zoo dua thaum siv rau Simons txoj kev tshawb nrhiav, nrhiav thaj chaw tshiab rau Mapplethorpe, ua rau nws xav tias cuam tshuam thiab zoo siab rau ib tiam tshiab. . Qhov ntawd yog qhov nws pom nws lub luag haujlwm.
Kuv kuj yog tus kiv cua Mapplethorpe thiab. Kuv tsis tuaj yeem pab tab sis koom nrog qhov kev ua yeeb yam no rau Mapplethorpe qhov kev nyiam ntawm cov thav ntawv, nrog rau kev muab nws cov duab peb sab, cov duab puab zoo los ntawm kev sib txuas thiab matting hauv plush velvets thiab txawv ntoo, txuas cov duab rau cov khoom. Ua rau nws cov duab ntau dua li lawv tuaj yeem tshwm sim thawj zaug. Simons framed Mapplethorpe cov duab nrog daim ntaub, tab sis tom qab ntawd ntxiv thav duab rau ntawm lub cev: ib daim duab luam tawm ntawm ib lub tabard, hais tias, surmounted los ntawm curtains ntawm lub tsho lapels, los yog nthuav tawm ntawm T-shirt nyob rau hauv ib tug xoob draped sweater. Simons gravitated rau Mapplethorpe cov duab sib deev ntawm cov paj, nws cov duab zoo tshaj plaws ntawm cov ncauj lus nto moo zoo li Debbie Harry, ntes tau hauv coronas ntawm lub teeb, thiab ntawm cov neeg ua yeeb yam uas Simons kuj tau qhuas rau, zoo li Alice Neel, ntes tau ib lub lim tiam lossis ua ntej nws tuag hauv ib qho extraordinary 1984 portrait. Kev sib deev nyob rau ntawd, ib yam nkaus; Simons tau hais rau qhov ntawd. Lub tsho down-stuffed memorably tig los nthuav tawm cov duab ntawm lub phallus erect.
Nws kuj tau siv cov kab lus "curation" los piav txog qhov yeeb yam no: "Kuv xav mus rau nws zoo li lub tsev khaws puav pheej, lossis ib qho chaw ua yeeb yam. Uas tau ua ntau zaus thaum nws los txog rau Mapplethorpe txoj haujlwm. Cindy Sherman ua nws, David Hockney ua nws. Tab sis ib txwm nyob hauv ib lub gallery. " Simons frowned. “Kuv yog ib tug fashion designer. Kuv xav tias qhov kev sib tw loj tshaj plaws yuav ua rau kuv tus kheej ib puag ncig. "
Tus curatorial nam ua rau ib tug fascinating kev xav, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog nyob rau hauv ib lub sij hawm thaum muaj ntau designers tsim nyog thiab siv tsis tau credit - thiab thaum muaj coob tus neeg pov ib ncig ntawm cov lus qhia "kho." Nws yog qhov qhia txog Simons qhov xwm txheej - hwm, nyob ntsiag to, kev txawj ntse - uas nws pom cov khoom no tsis yog nws cov kev tsim nrog Mapplethorpe cov duab tacked rau, tab sis raws li kev sib koom tes zoo ib yam li cov yeeb yam hauv tsev, qhov twg nws lub luag haujlwm yog, tsawg kawg hauv ib feem, kom zoo tshaj plaws. nthuav qhia tej hauj lwm uas nws tau muab. Tab sis nws kuj yog siv cov haujlwm no los qhia txog zaj dab neeg tshiab, zoo siab, thiab ntxim nyiam. Txhawm rau qhia peb ib yam dab tsi tshiab los ntawm qhov paub zoo, thiab pom ntau, archives ntawm Mapplethorpe. Qhov uas nws undoubtedly ua.