Lelee ihe ngosi Thom Browne Men Fall 2019 runway na Beaux-Arts de Paris.
Ọkachamara akwa akwa na ihe nkiri a na-adọrọ adọrọ wepụtara ọtụtụ uwe mwụda mara mma nke e si na akụkụ uwe.
N'aha nkwado, Thom Browne buru ụzọ wepụta ntọala mara mma, na-ekechi ebe ahụ - nke edobere n'ime École nationale supérieure des Beaux-Arts - na mkpuchi afụ, gụnyere oche. Ọ bụghị ikwupụta ngagharị nke ndị yiri Fero bụ ndị meghere ihe nkiri ahụ.
Browne, onye bụkwa Saran kpuchiri ihu ụdịdị ahụ, chọsiri ike ka ọ ghara ịdị omimi banyere ya. Ọ jụrụ, sị: “Ọ bụ naanị maka ntụrụndụ. "Anyị na-eji ihe mkpuchi afụ maka mbupu mbupu azụ na azụ, yabụ na ọ na-ewere ihe anyị na-eji maka ebumnuche ngwa ngwa wee mee ya n'usoro."
Onye isi ihe nkiri - oge a na-eme onwe ya karịa ikike ya ibuga ndị na-ege ntị n'ime ụwa yiri ya - onye na-akwa akwa, onye nwere azụmaahịa azụmaahịa na-eme nke ọma na onye nwe ọhụrụ, Ermenegildo Zegna Group, na-enwekwa mmasị ịgwọ ụzọ ụgbọ elu dị ka ihe mmega ahụ. ịke. N'ebe a, o weere ịhụnanya ya nke ụdị Fifties-ụdị ahaziri ahazi uwe nkịtị wee gbawaa ya n'ime uwe na ihe eji ejiji cross.
Ọ na-eme na ngalaba atọ, na-emeghe na feminized, corseted spins na kpochapụwo uwe, na-eji "mara mma nwanyị" uwe ọdịnala dị ka English ịchụ nta tweeds, Shetland wools, Harris tweeds na mepụtara cashmeres agha.
Anya gụnyere uwe akwa Mary Poppins nke gụnyere ihe ụmụ nwanyị dị ka ajị anụ na aka uwe, na cardigans eriri USB gbanwere ka ọ bụrụ uwe mwụda ogologo ogologo bọtịnụ ogologo, ya na onye mmebe na-agbagha oke, na-ebelata ahụ nke jaket bọmbụ mgbe niile, sịnụ, iji mepụta wap. - mmetụta ukwu
Na-esote ụdị anya-aghọ trompe l'oeil nke suiting, uwe elu na agbatị. Ma mgbe ahụ, dị nnọọ mgbe i chere na ị ga-ahụ ya niile, o were ya ọzọ akụkụ na usoro nke kewapụrụ uwe mwụda a kpụrụ si a uwe akụkụ patchworked ọnụ na draped gburugburu aru, na-aga n'etiti ezigbo trompe l'oeils na ezigbo uwe sewn. ọnụ. "Ọ fọrọ nke nta ka ọ dị mma, ka mma, kacha mma," Browne kwubiri banyere mmalite nke nrụnye nkà ije ije ya.
Thom Browne mmiri/okpomọkụ 2019 Paris
Ọ gara n'ihu ikwu, "Ọ bụ ihe na-atọ ụtọ ịhụ ka ụmụ nwoke na-eji ejiji ugbu a, echere m na nke bụ eziokwu, uwe ejiji ụmụ nwanyị na-adọrọ mmasị maka ụmụ okorobịa n'oge a," na-agbakwụnye na ọ hụrụ n'anya echiche nke "iwere oke oke nwoke na-adọrọ adọrọ na ahụ. ime ka ha bụrụ nwanyị,” dị ka uwe mgbede. Browne kwusiri ike, "N'iji n'aka na ị ga-eji akụkụ ọ bụla nke ọdịdị ahụ ị hụrụ n'ihu. "Na-adigide nke ukwuu, maara nke ọma."
N'ikpeazụ nwere afụ mkpuchi-topcoat yi ihe nlereanya na-ekpughere ahịrị ụmụ bebi yiri uwe kpọmkwem nke ahụrụla n'okporo ụzọ ụgbọ elu. O mesiri ọkwa couture nke mkpokọta ahụ pụta ìhè.
Mma: #isamayafrench
Ntutu: #eugenesouleiman