N'ime ihe ngosi ụzọ ụgbọ elu ochie nke paparazzi flashbulbs na-enwu enwu, onye nrụpụta ahụ wepụrụ ihe ngosi azụmaahịa karịa, ahaziri, onye na-agba ịnyịnya, '90s na Early Aughts - ihe ncheta maka oge ọzọ.
Ememme ncheta ọmụmụ 100th nke Gucci ejighị egwu.
Alessandro Michele debuted ọhụrụ ya "Aria" collection Thursday ụtụtụ site a 20-nkeji film nke wetara ndị na-ekiri The Savoy na London, opekempe na mmụọ, ebe ika nchoputa Guccio Gucci bụ otu mgbe n'ọrụ dị ka bellboy.
N'ime ihe ngosi ụzọ ụgbọ elu ochie nke paparazzi flashbulbs na-enwu, onye mmebe ahụ wepụrụ onye na-ehicha ihe, nke dabara adaba, onye na-agba ịnyịnya, 90s na mbido Aughts na-echetara ihe onyonyo maka oge ọzọ - site na obere enyemaka nke enyi ya, Balenciaga's Demna Gvasalia.
Tọọ ụda egwu na-agba agba nke gbasara aha hip-hop ika, gụnyere Lil Pump's "Gucci Gang," Rick Ross' "Green Gucci Suit" na Bhad Bhabie's "Gucci Flip Flops," dị ka ihe ntụrụndụ, "Aria" bụ ihe ntụrụndụ. see - tightly lekwasịrị anya na akụkọ kwụ ọtọ karịa ka nke ika ahụ nwere nkụta, kpakpando juru, nke nwere akụkụ asaa “Ouverture” miniseries. Ma kama ọtụtụ ndị a ma ama, Gucci bụ kpakpando, dabara maka afọ ncheta.
"M lekwasịrị anya na DNA nke ika ahụ n'ihi na ọ bụ akụkụ nke m," Michele kwuru banyere ihe nkiri ahụ, nke o mere na onye nduzi Floria Sigismondi. O dere edemede ahụ, na-akọ banyere ike Gucci na omenala pop, ma jiri ihe omimi ya tụnyere ụlọ osisi, naanị otu nke n'okpuru nduzi ya, a na-akpọ onye ọ bụla.
Nchịkọta ahụ gbasara ọgbọ na mmetụta, na-emetụ ihe nketa nke ika ahụ aka na ihe mgbochi agba nke jockey, "Savoy Club" na-agba okpu agha ma na-atụgharị ịnyịnya ụlọ ahụ ka ọ bụrụ ihe eji egwu egwu mara mma.
Ngwakọta nke oge ochie bourgeois pared-azụ - ịnya jaketị na sket trouser, jodphurs, akpụkpọ ụkwụ na akpa belt nwere ihe ịchọ mma achara - bụ akụkọ na azụmaahịa karịa maka akara kachasị elu, wee kwughachi Gucci dị ka onye na-arụ ọrụ ịnya akwa na-enweghị oge.
Ọ bụ ezie na ọ dịghị mgbe ụlọ ahụ mere sadulu dị ka Hermès, "ụwa ndị na-agba ịnyịnya bụ akụkụ nke akụkọ ifo nke ụwa ndị ọkachamara," Michele kọwara otú o si lee anya na-eme akụkọ Gucci. "Akụkọ akụkọ ihe mere eme ụfọdụ ụdị French nwere bụ ibu na-adọrọ mmasị, mana enwere m ụlọ nyocha," ka ọ kọwara.
Ọ welitere Tom Ford's seduction story from the 90s and early Aughts, gụnyere ike puff, nku aka uwe; lace lingerie, na logo jeans dị ala nke ejiri eriri bit inyinya kechie nke yiri ihe a na-achọsi ike na-eyi ọzọ na nfuli slingback na-acha uhie uhie - na uwe mwụda na-acha uhie uhie nke bụ ihe mgbanaka maka nke Gwyneth Paltrow yi na 1996 MTV Music Awards. Ihe onye na-anakọta ngwa ngwa!
Yabụ, kwa, ga-abụ uwe na-egbuke egbuke Gucci-meets-Balenciaga dabara na uwe elu, nke ika a kọwara dị ka “nsọpụrụ,” mana obi abụọ adịghị ya na ọ na-abanye na ọkụ mmekọ nke ejiji ugbu a. Mmasị Michele nwere n'ịkwa akwa akwa nke Gvasalia na-egosipụta n'uju n'ubu linebacker n'ọtụtụ iberibe, gụnyere otu mkpuchi na-acha anụnụ anụnụ na uwe GG ojii nke ga-adị ka a kara aka maka ọkwa arụmọrụ n'oge ọ bụla.
"Agwara m ya na achọrọ m iji ụdị nke ụlọ ọzọ gwuo egwu," Michele kwuru banyere oku mbụ ya na Gvasalia, bụ onye ọ kpọrọ enyi, na-akọwa na ọ na-eji ụkpụrụ na ụdị onye mmepụta ihe. Silhouette nke Balenciaga nwere padded hourglass tụgharịrị na akara ngosi GG, nke ejiri sket gbawara agbawa na akpụkpọ ụkwụ akpụkpọ nke abụọ, dịka ọmụmaatụ.
Suiting bụ a throughline na ọ na-adị mma, na swiiti na agba, na abụọ-breasted blazers n'elu ubé flared uwe ogologo ọkpa maka ndị ikom na ndị inyom, ma ọ bụ kpuchie na allover kaleidoscopic GG logos na ọzọ rụrụ shapes, na e nwere egwuregwu mmetụ n'ụdị puffers na. ogige ntụrụndụ.
Ọ bụ ezie na enwere ọtụtụ ihe mgbakwunye, gụnyere akpa ndị e ji egwu egwu Gucci ebipụta, mgbanaka imi nwere akara, agbụ anụ ahụ na ọbụna ọla mara mma, styling magpie nke Michele maximalist were ntakịrị ihe n'oche azụ na-akwado ọdịdị enweghị mgbagwoju anya. Ọ dị ọhụrụ maka ya. Mana inclusivity - onyinye ya n'otu n'otu na ika na ejiji - bụ ihe na-akụtu obi nke ọrụ ahụ (lelee minaudières runway mkpuchi kristal, kwa).
Michele na-elekọta egwu ahụ, ma chepụta echiche ahụ, na-abanye n'oge a nke mkpokọta mmepụta ihe, na ị nweta akara sitere na omenala hacking / bootlegging Gucci nabatara, kama ịzere ya, site na mmekorita ya na GucciGhost, Dapper Dan na ndị ọzọ.
Ma ọ bụ ezie na ọ dịghị onye ọ bụla a ma ama n'ụlọ ahụ, ọ na-asọpụrụ ọrụ Hollywood na-eme ka akụkọ ifo Gucci na ụdị cinematic nke ihe nkiri ahụ, na ụlọ akwụkwọ ochie paparazzi flashbulbs. Ndị ahụ yiri ka ọ na-erute ka Gucci buru ụzọ bilie na nsụhọ omenala pop site n'okporo ámá ụdị ihe oyiyi nke onye na-ese foto Ron Galella nke Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis na ndị ọzọ na '70s, na-aga n'ihu na-adọrọ mmasị taa site na ihe oyiyi nke Lady Gaga na Adam Driver na-ese ihe na-abịa " Ụlọ Gucci" na Rome.
N'ile anya na 2020s na-ebigbọ, enwere ọtụtụ uwe oriri na ọṅụṅụ, gụnyere ọmarịcha akwa akwa na akwa nku na-ekpughe bra na thong n'okpuru nke yiri ụtụ maka uwe "Obi ụtọ ụbọchị ọmụmụ Mr. President" nke Marilyn Monroe site na 1962, n'onwe ya bụ ụtụ. mmekorita dị n'etiti mgbe ahụ Bob Mackie na onye isi ya, onye mmebe uwe Jean Louis. Okpu nke na-acha ude nke gbanyere n'ájá uhie bụ ihe nkiri ọzọ.
"Ahụrụ m ndị nduzi ejiji na-emepụta ụdị dị iche iche," ka Michele kwuru, na-ekwupụta otú ikike ịkọ akụkọ ha si metụta usoro okike ya.
Na njedebe nke ihe nkiri ahụ, ụdị ahụ batara na paradaịs dị n'èzí, ogige Iden nke COVID-19 gachara, na-esi ísì ụtọ, na-etinye lipstick na ịmakụ ndị enyi ochie. Ọ bụ oge na-emetụ n'ahụ sitere na ika a mụrụ na ,tali, ebe tara ahụhụ ma na-ata ahụhụ nke ukwuu n'oge ọrịa a. Dị ka Michele kwuru, "Nke a bụ ukwe nye ndụ."