LONDON, Jenụwarị 10, 2016
nke NICK REMSEN
Jeremy Scott's Moschino na-eme mkpọtụ, mana enweghị mgbagha na-atọ ụtọ. Ụdị ọchị ya bụ Pop-ier, wackier, na-atọ ụtọ karịa nke Franco, mana nke ahụ abụghị ihe ọjọọ: Scott bụ onye mmebe nke na-adaba anya n'anya nke anya-na-m n'oge. Ihe niile ọ na-egosi nwere ike ịbụ Snapchatted ma ọ bụ Instagrammed nke ukwuu n'egbughị oge. Nchịkọta ọ kpughere n'abalị a, n'ime ụlọ ụka Mayfair, pụtara ìhè dị ka ọ dị na mbụ, ma enwere amamihe pụtara ìhè, n'ihi ntinye aka nke ndị omenkà agitprop nke Britain bụ Gilbert & George.
Scott kwuru, sị: “Achọrọ m ime uwe ndị nwere ọtụtụ ihe, n'ihi ya, mụ na ha ṅụọ tii. “Ka m na-agwakwa ha echiche m maka mkpokọta ahụ, ha sịrị, ‘Gịnị mere na ị naghị ewepụta ihe n’ebe a na-edebe ihe ochie anyị?’ Ya mere, site n’obe ruo n’isi ruo n’akwụkwọ akụkọ [nke pụtara ngwa ngwa na iwe n’ihe fọrọ nke nta ka ọ bụrụ ihe niile] nwere. ọtụtụ ihe magburu onwe ya m nwere ike itinye." N'ụzọ doro anya, eserese G&G nwere agba agbakasịala mbufụt chromatic ọzọ na ụbụrụ Scott mgbe ọ bụla—nchịkọta ọdịda ya bụ egwurugwu n'ime ọgwụ ike, rave-y neon, ruo na nti ntị na-ese fluorescent na coifs. (Ụlọ ụka gburugburu na-echetara Limelight, ụlọ oriri na ọṅụṅụ Manhattan nke 90s nke dịkwa na chọọchị, na ụfọdụ ndị denizens Scott yi uwe.) Denim nwere ọgwụgwọ agba agba, na mpịachi na seams etinyere na (chee trompe l). 'Oil nke ụmụaka ụlọ ịgba egwu iri itoolu na-eyi). Dọkịta Martens akpụkpọ ụkwụ mara mma, nke mpụ nke na-arụ ọrụ dị ka ọkpụkpọ ihe ngosi, nwetara otu graffiti ahụ. A na-arụkwa ọnyá ndị kọleji n'oge mbụ, ma n'ụdị ịchafụ ma ọ bụ uwe elu, na-agbazinye ihe na-enweghị atụ.
N'ụzọ-na nke a bụ onye ikwu na-atụle oke iwe Scott-enwekwara ọbara ọbara elementrị na uwe. O kwuru, "Ọtụtụ n'ime ụdị ahụ dị nnọọ mfe, emekwara m ọtụtụ nhazi," ka o kwuru. "Ọ fọrọ nke nta ka ọ bụrụ uwe ejikọtara ọnụ - dị ka sweta kpara nke nwere aka MA-1." Enwere ike ịsị na Collage sitere na Gilbert & George: Jourdan Dunn-onye jere ije dị ka akụkụ nke Pre-Fall ụmụ nwanyị Moschino, nke egosiri n'otu oge-yiri jaket ụgbọ elu kpuchiri ekpuchi nke nwere ogwe kpara nke etinyere n'azụ yana uwe aka nwere akara. (N'ebe ọzọ, otu ihe atụ ama ama nke nke ahụ bụ SPUNK, nke na-ekpuchi shins nke jeans). Lucky Blue Smith meghere ma mechie ihe nkiri ahụ na Lisa Frank brights, mana silhouette na ọtụtụ iberibe ndị ọzọ kwụ ọtọ: uwe dị n'ihu, na trenchi iji gbachie ya.
Ya na Neneh Cherry, Noomi Rapace, Lucky, Jourdan, na ọbụna Taboo sitere na Black Eyed Peas n'aka, Scott, na-emekarị, wetara ntakịrị aha na flashbulbs na mkpokọta London dị ala: Ndị ikom. Ma ọ masịrị ya ma ọ bụ na ọ masịghị, nke ahụ bụ akụkụ buru ibu nke ngwugwu ya, ụdị mgbochi Pop nke elu, na oke oke maka ihe ọchị. Ka ngwụcha ikpeazụ ahụ zọdara, Michel Gaubert's remix nke "Dị ka Akpere" nke Madonna bịarutere na-abata na-na n'ahịrị, "onye ọ bụla ga-eguzo naanị ya," ị nweghị ike ịnyere aka ma chịa ọchị. Scott bụ anụ ọhịa wolf naanị ya, mana magnetism ya pụtara na ọ ga-enwe mkpọ mgbe niile.