Nchịkọta ndị nwoke nke Saint Laurent 2022

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Venice n'ime ụwa nke ịlọghachite bụ, ọ bụrụ na ọ ga-ekwe omume, ọbụna dị ebube karịa mgbe ọ bụla, ebe a na-ahụ dolphins na-egwu egwu na Laguna na ndị njem nlegharị anya ole na ole nọ gburugburu iji nwee mmasị na ha. N'ụzọ mmeri, a na-ekwupụta ọdọ mmiri ahụ na-esighị ike n'oge na-adịbeghị anya dị ka ihe ncheta mba, n'otu oge ahụ, gọọmentị Ịtali mechara kwupụta mmachibido iwu ụgbọ mmiri na-ese okwu bụ́ nke meriri obodo ahụ n'agbanyeghị na ọ na-eweta obere uru ego.

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Na obodo winding ụzọ na piazzas dịtụ efu, na ọbụna pavilions na Giardini, (Bochum onyinye mba maka Venice Architecture Biennale n'otu n'okpuru isiokwu Olee otú Anyị Ga-ebikọ ọnụ?) Ọ bụghị kpọmkwem rikpuru na ọbịa, ndị agha nke dị gịrịgịrị wraiths. , bụ́ ndị e ji egbugbu gbuo ya, na-akpa àgwà ọma, ma na-agbagharị gburugburu odida obodo ahụ, yiri ka ọ pụtara ìhè karị.

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Ndị a gosipụtara na ha bụ ihe atụ na akara ngosi nke Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent, n'ime obodo iji jee ije, steepụ, tụgharịa, na ịwụpụ n'okporo ụzọ awara awara na mkpokọta ndị mmebe na-eme ka mmadụ kwenye (n'agbanyeghị na ụdị ahụ dị iche iche, ọ dị ka ọ bụghị akụkụ nke mkparịta ụka ahụ. n'ógbè ndị uwe ojii).

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N'ikwekọ na nlebara anya obodo ugbu a na ohere nke ihe owuwu, Vaccarello jikọrọ aka na onye na-ese ihe na-eme ihe nkiri na onye na-ese ihe nkiri Doug Aitken (onye meriri ihe nrite mba ụwa na 1999 Venice Biennale) na gburugburu ebe ngosi ihe nchịkọta ya.

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Aitken mepụtara Green Lens, ihe dị ịtụnanya nwere ihu mirror nke gbakọtara n'ime otu ọnwa na Isola della Certosa, ma kụọ ya na ahịhịa ahịhịa ụlọ na-ekpo ọkụ. Ọ na-eje ozi dị ka nzaghachi nye ajụjụ Biennale jụrụ, na-ejikọta ọdịnihu na ọdịdị ala.

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Vaccarello kọwara, "St niile tent nke Saint Laurent na m na-eme onwe m mgbe niile n'ụzọ," Vaccarello kọwara, na kpokọtara na post-show nri abalị nke edobere na enweghị ụlọ mkpọmkpọ ebe nke ochie brik n'àgwàetiti ahụ, "ya mere ọ dị mma na-ekere òkè a. echiche maka oge mbụ ya na onye na-ese ihe na-amasị m n'ezie, ọ na-atọkwa ụtọ. Echiche ahụ kwesịrị ịbụ maka ihe ngosi ụmụ nwanyị n'afọ gara aga," Vaccarello gbakwụnyere, "na n'ihi ọrịa na-efe efe anyị kpaliri ya ugbu a. N'ikpeazụ, ọ mere ka ọ dịkwuo mfe ịnweta ya na Venice karịa na Paris, karịsịa na Architecture Biennale-na nchịkọta ahụ, nke bụ ngwakọta nke mmetụta dị ukwuu nke Saint Laurent na ọtụtụ Venetian 'New Romanticism.' Ọ bụghị. na-etinye ha n'ime akụkọ ihe mere eme, ụzọ Venetian oge gboo, mana na gburugburu ọdịnihu. Echere m na mgbe COVID gachara, ịchọrọ ileba anya n'ọdịniihu karịa nke gara aga - ọ na-amasịkwa m ngwakọta nke oge gara aga na ntụnye aka na uwe, yana ọdịnihu na ntọala. "

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N'oge ihe ngosi a na-agba ọsọ ngwa ngwa, ihe owuwu ahụ gosipụtara na mbara igwe na-acha anụnụ anụnụ, ìhè anyanwụ, na mmiri ọdọ mmiri gbawara agbawa ebe ọkụ Aitken gbanwere ọnọdụ ahụ site n'oge ruo n'oge, na-atụ aro site na ntụgharị ọdịda anyanwụ na-ere ọkụ ma ọ bụ chi ọbụbọ Scandinavian na-acha anụnụ anụnụ. N'ịbụ ndị a na-atụgharị na enyo ndị ahụ, ebo Vaccarello na-arịgo na jaket na-adịghị ala ala ma ọ bụ uwe elu na-egbuke egbuke (chee Adam Ant na Britain mmalite 1980 New Romantics), na uwe ogologo ọkpa sịga na akpụkpọ ụkwụ ụkwụ na-egbuke egbuke na-agbatị silhouette dị gịrịgịrị.

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Na ngbanwe n'oge nke ego mgbazinye ụmụ nwanyị na-adịghị agwụ agwụ site na uwe ndị nwoke ọdịnala, Vaccarello nwekwara obi ụtọ ịgagharị ebe a na-edebe ihe ochie nke Saint Laurent na-enweghị atụ maka uwe ụmụ nwanyị nwere ike inye ụmụ nwoke, gụnyere jacquard crepe de chine uwe elu na uwe elu site na mmalite 70s. , Jaketị toreador gbuturu na spencers sitere na mkpokọta Saint Laurent's Picasso (Fall 1979) na Jazz (Spring 1978) mkpokọta, na brocade bolero nke sitere na mkpokọta China (Fall 1977) tụgharịrị dị ka onye na-atụ bọmbụ ma na-eyi ya na jeans ojii, yana ọnụ ọgụgụ. nke dị iche iche na-ese siga. Vaccarello kwukwara na "enwere ọtụtụ ihe sitere na nchịkọta ụmụ nwanyị gara aga - nke na-adịgide adịgide na njedebe," ka ọ gbakwụnyere, "dị ka uwe elu lace niile, iberibe sitere na oge abụọ ma ọ bụ atọ gara aga."

N'ịsọpụrụ obodo ndị ọbịa ahụ, e nwekwara ihe nkiri carnival nke Venetian n'ọgba aghara dị egwu, gụnyere otu n'ime silk na-acha odo odo na-egbukepụ egbukepụ nke kpalitere ihe atụ na-adịghị mma nke egosiri na Saint Laurent's Fall 1983 haute couture show, (nke onye na-elekọta mmadụ Nan Kempner kpasuru ya na ejiji. Institute gala nke mere ememe mmebe). "Echere m na ọ bụ ihe na-atọ ụtọ ịhụ ka nwa okorobịa nwere ike isi were ya," Vaccarello kwuru n'okwu amụma gbasara mmiri nwoke na nwanyị, "M ga-ekwukwa na ha chere ya n'ụzọ nkịtị, [ma ọ bụ] uwe elu lace, ma ọ bụ akpụkpọ ụkwụ ikpo okwu."

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