Ndizovomerezeka. Kutengeka kwa mafashoni pa Spring ndi ulendo - mawu ofanana, ndithudi, akutha mofulumira kufotokoza oyendayenda, oyendayenda, oyendayenda a okonza. Pali atatu osachitapo kanthu, apo pomwe. Lingaliro la kusuntha kosalekeza sikuli kokha gwero la kudzoza kwa Kim Jones-ndi njira ya moyo. Iye ndi munthu wotanganidwa ndi kuyendayenda, mwamuna amene anapita ku Japan yekha maulendo oposa 70 m'zaka khumi zapitazi, komanso malo ambiri.
Kukhala ndi Jones ndi ntchito yovuta. Moyenera, adapatsidwa ntchito yopangira zovala zachimuna za Louis Vuitton, nyumba yomwe maziko ake a raison d'être anali lingaliro la woyenda panyanja. Sizichitika kawirikawiri koma pomwe ndi Jones, zikafika pakudzoza. Mawonekedwe amapanga seams.
Nanga bwanji, kuti nyengo yotsatira Jones adaganiza zothawa, koma kubwerera? Chiwonetsero chake cha Spring Louis Vuitton sichinali chokhudza kuyenda-m'malo mwake, kubwera kunyumba. M'mafashoni a Jonesian, izi sizikugwirizana ndi malo amodzi, koma atatu: Africa, kumene anakulira; London, kumene anaphunzira; ndi Paris, komwe amakhala ndikugwira ntchito tsopano.
Ziwiri zotsirizirazo zinali zowonekera kwambiri: Africa, gwero la zikopa zapamwamba za ng'ona ndi nthiwatiwa, macheke ouziridwa ndi Amasai, ndi phale loyera, lopangidwa ndi mchenga lokhala ndi buff, taupe, ndi ecru (tingatchule kuti beige); pamene London adapereka punk. "Nthawi zonse pamakhala china chake chaku London chobisika kwinakwake," adatero Jones. Kwenikweni, panali zambiri. Jones ndiwokonda kusonkhanitsa zinthu za punk memorabilia - gulu lake la Vivienne Westwood ndi Malcolm McLaren zomwe adatulutsa mu nthawi yawo ya Sex and Seditionaries ndi zachiwiri kwa wina aliyense, kuphatikiza nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale zambiri - ndipo adazigwiritsa ntchito bwino ngati zofotokozera zomwe adasonkhanitsa. mathalauza, mphete za D, ndi makolala a agalu, ngakhale zomalizidwa modabwitsa mu mafashoni achi French. Kolala ya agaluyo, mwamwayi, inali kalembedwe ka Vuitton, komwe kamakonda kugwiritsidwa ntchito popanga pooches, yotchedwa "Baxter."
Zinali zosamvetseka, zophatikizika za anachronistic zomwe zidapangitsa kuti gululi likhale lolimba. Nanga bwanji za ku Africa komwe kumayang'ana pafupifupi tartan muzakudya zowonda zomangika zija? Kapena kuti tsatanetsatane wa punk wolumikizidwa, kwa Jones, ku mbiri yakale ya Vuitton, zomata ndi zomangira zamitengo yachikhalidwe. Wophulitsa bomba wowoneka ngati chikopa cha zikopa za nthiwatiwa amafanana ndi mwambi wakale wakuti: Punk ili ngati madontho ofinya. Pokhapokha, ngati ma Vuitton awa akukanikizidwa, zikadakhala mu spa ku Champneys. Ndiye palinso mitengo ikuluikulu yomwe imatchedwa "Pulasitiki Peculiars" ndipo lingaliro lakuti, moona mtima, nsalu yotchinga ya Vuitton ndi mtundu wa pulasitiki wolemekezeka (komanso wokwera mtengo kwambiri). Jones anali ndi zinthu zenizeni muwonetseroyi, nayenso, mapanga a rabara opangidwa ndi LV monogram ndipo amasindikizidwa ndi nyama zosinthika zomwe zinalembedwa ndi abwenzi a wopanga ndi ogwira nawo ntchito Jake ndi Dinos Chapman.
Kodi kubwera kunyumba kumatanthauza chiyani? Kudziwana. Ngakhale simungafune kuti izi ndi nyimbo zopambana kwambiri, zidasokoneza malingaliro ndi malingaliro omwe Jones adafufuza nthawi yonse yomwe ali panyumbapo. Zisindikizo za Chapman zija zinali chimodzi; The African amayang'ana wina, anapezerapo kuwonekera koyamba kugulu lake zaka zisanu nyengo, reworked lero koma akudziwikabe. Pamene zombie zoo ya Chapman inkayendayenda momasuka, inali yodutsa pa Vuitton monogram yomwe inauziridwa ndi ndondomeko yoyambirira ya mapangidwe, omwe adapangidwa mu 1896-muzu wa monogram, monga momwe Jones adayendera mizu yake.
Kunena zowona, uwo unali ulendo womwe Jones adaganiza kuti atitengere nawo nyengo ino - njira yokumbukira, yake komanso ya Louis Vuitton. Maonekedwe a thumba adachotsedwa mwachidziwitso kuchokera kumalo osungirako zakale - Steamer inakhala chikwama; kalembedwe ka '70s-duffel wotchedwa Randonnee ali ndi chingwe chatsopano; mitengo ikuluikulu ya Valise idatulutsidwa mu springbok kapena mbidzi yamagetsi yabuluu. Zomwe zimabwerera kunyumba zidapangitsa chiwonetsero chomwe chimamveka, mwina, chofunda kuposa kutuluka kwaposachedwa kwalemba; ndithudi kwambiri zaumwini, zomwe ziri zosapeŵeka chifukwa cha kugwirizana kwa Jones ndi maphunziro omwe ali nawo. Izi zinapangitsa kuti ikhale yowonjezereka, ku maonekedwe onyezimira a nkhope. Zinapereka kuzama, komwe kumakhala kovutirapo makamaka pochita ndi nkhani zomwe zidakumbidwa bwino kwambiri m'mbuyomu.
Kufotokozera kwa Jones lero sikunakweze kwambiri ngati kukonzanso punk. Izo zinasonyeza chimene kupanduka kungatanthauze, pa nyumba ya zinthu zapamwamba za m’zaka za zana la 21. Zinsinsi zidzakwezedwa - koma kupanduka sikuwoneka kwa zovala zokhala ndi mahule, zokhala ndi chitetezo za punk zomwe zimatchedwa Vuitton menswear, koma wopanga adapereka ufulu kuziwonetsa. M'malo ochulukirachulukira azinthu zapamwamba, ndichifukwa chake chiwonetserochi chidawonekera.