NEW YORK, FEBRUARY 15, 2016
ndi NICK REEMSEN
Pali zochitika zina (zosowa) panthawi yosonkhanitsa pamene, pambuyo pa kuwomba m'manja ndi mauta ndi pakhomo, mumaganiza, mophweka: Icho chinali chiwonetsero chabwino. Zovala siziyenera kukweza mipiringidzo mwamalingaliro; iwo anangoyenera kumamatira zolimba ku zimene okonza awo amakhulupirira, zimene okonza awo amapambana. Ndicho chifukwa chake Rag & Bone's Fall (-ish, zambiri pa izi posachedwa) mndandanda wa amuna, womwe unawonetsedwa pamodzi ndi zovala za akazi usikuuno, unali chochitika chimodzi chotere.
"Ndizokoka zonse za Rag & Bone zomwe takhala tikugwiritsa ntchito zaka zambiri, tsopano muwonetsero imodzi," atero a Marcus Wainwright kumbuyo kwa siteji, pomwe wopanga nawo, David Neville, adapereka zikomo. "Nsalu zachingerezi zokongoletsedwa komanso zapamwamba zachingerezi, masewera, zovala zakunja zaukadaulo," adapitilizabe. "Pali mafashoni ambiri a esoteric ndipo sizomwe timayimira."
Malinga ndi mawu ake, panalibe kanthu kovuta kumvetsetsa za zovala izi, makamaka pa mbali ya amuna (zowona, zinali zokhometsa msonkho kuyang'ana mmbuyo ndi mtsogolo pakati pa akazi ndi amuna, chifukwa chake panali awiri Vogue. Owunikira a Runway alipo usikuuno). Kunena moona mtima, zosonkhanitsirazo zikuphatikiza kubwereranso ku mawonekedwe a Wainwright ndi Neville, kukumbukira masiku oyambilira a Rag & Bone - zinthu zomwe zidawapangitsa kukhala akulu kwambiri poyambira, monga ma sartorial Britishism omwe tawatchulawa - monga Rag & Bone aposachedwa kwambiri. , ndi ntchito zaukadaulo zambiri. Chovala chakuda chaubweya chakuda chidadulidwa mwaluso komanso champhamvu mwapadera, misewu yonse yoyengedwa bwino komanso chidaliro. Yang'anani 1 inali ndi paki yomwe aliyense m'chipindamo akanapindula ndi sabata yapitayi (zaukadaulo) pa suti yopyapyala yaubweya (yosoka). Anyamatawo anali anzerunso kuphatikiza sewero la mawu (omwe amatha kulakwika mwachangu, koma akuyenda). Mawu awo, monga amawonekera pa ma sweatshirts: Rag & Bone Universal. Zokwanira. Kuphatikizidwa ndi mabomba osasunthika (zocheperako za Alpha Industries swag, zofewa kwambiri komanso zosanjikiza), ma jeans owoneka bwino, ndi zovala zakunja kulikonse, pafupifupi chilichonse chinali chosangalatsa (ngakhale zina za BMX ndi mthunzi wina wa tangerine wowoneka pa jekete lotchingidwa sizinachite bwino. ).
Kufikira pamwamba pa nyengoyi: Neville ndi Wainwright anasiya dala chizindikiro cha Fall isanafike 2016 pa zolemba zawo zawonetsero, zomwe zingatanthauze kusamukira ku ndondomeko yosonkhanitsa madzi ambiri, monga ena ambiri akuyesera. (M'malo mwake, mawonekedwe ena kuyambira usikuuno akugulitsidwa tsopano-kodi aliyense akuchita izi?) Mwinamwake iwo anafunikira chiyembekezo chokhazikika cha kusintha kwakukulu kwa nthawi mu makampani kuti adzikhazikitsenso. Chirichonse chimene icho chinali, icho chinagwira ntchito. Chiwonetsero chabwino bwanji.