Kuwonetsa Virgil Abloh's Louis Vuitton mu Paris Fashion Week. Virgil Abloh adapereka ulemu kwa Michael Jackson, ndikuyimbanso kanema wa woimbayo wa "Billie Jean".
Chidziwitso chinali pakuyitanira - gulovu yoyera imodzi, yokhala ndi miyala yoyera - ngakhale otsatira apamtima a Virgil Abloh adadziwa kale kuti chiwonetsero chake cha amuna kugwa cha Louis Vuitton chinali chokhudza Michael Jackson, mutu wa chiwonetsero chapano ku Grand Palais ku Paris. .
Mkulu wa zovala za mumsewu, yemwe chizindikiro chake cha Off-White chadzozedwa chotentha kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi pakali pano, adakweza chophimba pamutuwu pokambirana ndi magazini ya Interview mu Disembala, kupitilira mwambo wakale wobisa chinsinsi pakati pa nyumba zapamwamba zomwe zikuyenda. - mpaka mawonekedwe awo owuluka.
Alendo adalowa muhema wamdima m'munda wa Tuileries, pomwe mtunduwo udapanganso ngodya yamisewu ya Manhattan usiku, zomwe zimakumbukira kanema wa "Billie Jean" wa Jackson - wokhala ndi miyala yoyatsa. Alendo, kuphatikizapo oimba nyimbo zoimba nyimbo za rap, Offset, Gunna, Kid Cudi ndi Skepta, anasonkhana pansi.
Seti ya asphalt imatanthawuza utoto wamtundu wa zosonkhanitsira, womwe unali nyanja ya imvi ndi yotuwa, yokhala ndi mawonekedwe osadziwika bwino ofiirira ndi ofiira - mwina mtundu womwe umagwirizanitsidwa kwambiri ndi Mfumu ya Pop.
Pakati pa malingaliro atsopano a Abloh omwe anali okonzekera anali ma jekete awiri - jekete lalifupi lokhala ndi chiuno chotanuka chovala pamwamba pa chovala chopanda manja chachitali - ndi jekete ya Zoot Suit yokhala ndi mabatani obisika. Kukonda kwa Jackson zovala zankhondo kudalowetsedwa m'mikanda yokhala ndi zigamba zowoneka ngati chikopa pa chovala changamila chodzitukumula ndi chovala.
Komano, zovala zakunja zinali za hip-hop zenizeni. Zosankha zinaphatikizapo malaya ometa ubweya wotuwa wa makala okhala ndi chometa chometedwa cha monogram; Chovala chambiri chokhala ndi chikopa cha ng'ona, ndi chovala chakuda cha Monogram chokhala ndi chikopa cha nkhosa chokhala ndi chikwama chofanana ndi Keepall.
Panali ulalo wowonekera kuwonetsero koyamba kwa Abloh ku Vuitton mu June watha, kudzera m'mawu osadziwika omwe anali ndi otchulidwa mu "The Wiz" - remake ya 1978 ya "The Wizard of Oz" yodziwika ndi Jackson ngati Scarecrow. Nsonga zitatu zokhala ndi sequins zokhala ndi sequins zinagwedeza zovala za siteji ya woimbayo, pamene T-sheti yosindikizidwa ndi chithunzi cha mapazi ake ovala zovala ndi masokosi oyera adapereka ulemu kwa luso lake lovina.
Zowonadi, ma loafers anali nsapato zosankhidwa bwino pachiwonetserochi, kuphimba ma sneaker omwe Abloh amadziwika nawo. Adabwera mumitundu yachikopa ndi imvi, atakongoletsedwa ndi unyolo womwe akukhazikitsa ngati siginecha yatsopano ya Vuitton. "Kwa ine, amatha kukhala okongola komanso atsopano, ngati a Stan Smiths oyera," adatero Abloh powonera.
Kupitilira pa chithunzicho, anali ndi chidwi ndi ntchito yothandiza anthu pantchito ya Jackson, makamaka "uthenga wapadziko lonse lapansi, kuphatikiza ndi chikondi" womwe umaperekedwa kudzera m'mapulojekiti monga "We Are the World" wachifundo wosakwatiwa. Mu mzimu umenewo, zovala zachikopa zinabwera ndi mbendera zoimira mayiko a gulu lake la studio.
Mbendera ya ku United States inagwiritsidwa ntchito potengera masiketi opyapyala okhala ndi dzuwa, zomwe zikuwonetsa momwe kuphatikizika kungakhudzire matanthauzo a jenda.
Zowonadi, Abloh watsegula malo apamwamba kwa omvera osiyanasiyana monga palibe wopanga wina aliyense asanakhalepo. Poyang'ana mizu yake ya zovala za mumsewu, anali ndi wojambula zithunzi wa Futura wopopera utoto panthawi yawonetsero, yomwe inalinso ndi oimba nyimbo monga Octavian ndi Sheck Wes panjira, komanso nyimbo yomveka yolembedwa ndi Dev Hynes.
"Copier c'est voler" ("Kukopera ndi kuba") anawerenga chilemba chomwe chili pakhoma limodzi - uthenga womwe mosakayikira unayankhulidwa kwa omwe amatsutsa Abloh kuti amangotengera malingaliro a opanga ena. Wina adabisidwa m'mawu owonetsera pansi pamutu wakuti "Irony," womwe adautanthauzira kuti: "Kupezeka kwa Virgil Abloh ku Louis Vuitton."
Abloh akudziwa bwino lomwe kuti otsatira ake achichepere sangakwanitse kugula zovala zomwe amapangira Vuitton. Zomwe akupereka, m'malo mwake, ndi chitsanzo choti titsatire.
"Ndikofunikira kukhala wopanga. Instagram ndi yaulere. Ndimakonda kukhala panyumba ndikutsegula babu. Sikuti ndi kukhala ndi chinthucho. Kwa ine, sindingathe kukwanitsa - ndidafuna. Ndicho chimene chinandipangitsa ine kukhala ndi chizoloŵezi cha ntchito. Ichi ndichifukwa chake sindimagona - chifukwa ndikufuna zinthu ndipo ndimazigwirira ntchito, "adatero.
Ngati kusankhidwa kwa Abloh kudakweza nsidze poyambilira, kumawoneka ngati LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton adasankha bwino: Chiwonetsero chake chachiwiri chinali chosangalatsa.
Louis Vuitton Spring/Chilimwe 2019 Paris