Onerani kanema wa Thom Browne Men's Fall 2019 aku Beaux-Arts de Paris.
Wovala telala waluso m’chiwonetsero chochititsa chidwi chimenechi anapereka mikanjo yamitundumitundu yopangidwa kuchokera ku mbali za suti.
M'dzina la kukhazikika, a Thom Browne adawoneratu malo abwino kwambiri, akukuta malowo - omwe ali mkati mwa École nationale supérieure des Beaux-Arts - atavala thovu, mipando ikuphatikizanso. Osatchulanso za gulu la anthu owoneka ngati pharaoh omwe adatsegula chiwonetserochi.
Browne, yemwenso Saran adakulunga nkhope zamitundu, anali wofunitsitsa kuti asazama kwambiri. “Zinali zosangalatsa basi,” iye anadandaula motero. "Timagwiritsa ntchito chivundikirocho potumiza zinthu zobwerera m'mbuyo, chifukwa chake timatenga zomwe timagwiritsa ntchito pazifukwa zomveka ndikuzipanga kukhala zokhazikika."
Katswiri wa zisudzo - nthawi ino akudzipatsa mphamvu zonyamula omvera kupita kudziko lofananira - telala waluso, yemwe ali ndi bizinesi yopambana komanso mwini watsopano, Ermenegildo Zegna Gulu, amakondanso kuchitira njanji ngati masewera olimbitsa thupi. kalembedwe. Apa adatenga chikondi chake cha suti yokhazikika yamtundu wa Makumi asanu ndikuyiphulika kukhala madiresi ndi fantasia yophatikizika.
Idaseweredwa m'magawo atatu, ndikutsegula ndi zozungulira zachikazi, zokongoletsedwa pa suti yachikale, pogwiritsa ntchito nsalu zachikhalidwe "zokongola zachikazi" monga ma tweed osaka achingerezi, ubweya wa Shetland, ma tweed a Harris ndi ma cashmere opangidwa ndinkhondo.
Zowoneka zikuphatikiza malaya amtundu wa Mary Poppins ophatikizira zinthu zazimayi monga ma cuffs aubweya pamanja, ndi ma cardigans oluka chingwe osinthidwa kukhala masiketi akutsogolo owongoka, okhala ndi milingo yowongoka, yocheperako thupi la jekete lowombera wamba, titi, kupanga mavu. - zotsatira za m'chiuno
Kenako panabwera mitundu yachinyengo ya trompe l'oeil ya suti, malaya ndi mataye. Ndiyeno, mutangoganiza kuti mwawona zonse, adazitengera ku gawo lina ndi zovala zapamwamba zopangidwa kuchokera kumagulu a suti opangidwa ndi zigamba pamodzi ndikuzungulira thupi, kusuntha pakati pa trompe l'oeils weniweni ndi zovala zenizeni zosokedwa. pamodzi. "Zinali ngati zabwino, zabwino, zabwino kwambiri," anamaliza Browne ponena za kusintha kwa makina ake oyenda.
Thom Browne Spring/Chilimwe 2019 Paris
"Ndizosangalatsa kuona momwe amuna amavalira tsopano ndipo ndikuganiza kuti njira yeniyeni ya kavalidwe ya akazi ndi yosangalatsa kwambiri kwa anyamata masiku ano," adatero, ndikuwonjezera kuti amakonda lingaliro la "kutenga zidutswa zachimuna kwambiri ndikuzikokera pathupi. kuwapanga kukhala akazi kwambiri,” monga chovala chamadzulo. "Kuonetsetsa kuti mukugwiritsa ntchito mawonekedwe aliwonse omwe mudawona kutsogolo," adatsindika Browne. "Wokhazikika kwambiri, wodziwa kwambiri."
Chomalizacho chinali ndi jasi lokulungidwa ndi thovu lovala lachitsanzo lovundukula zidole zingapo zovekedwa zofananira ndi zovala zomwe zidangowonedwa kumene panjira. Izo zinatsindika mulingo wa couture wa zosonkhanitsira.
Kukongola: #isamayafrench
Tsitsi: #eugenesouleiman