VMAN ikuphatikizanso wojambula waluso Bruce Weber ndi stylist Paul Cavaco pa Seputembala 2016.
LEMBA: JOSHUA LYON
Kwa otsatira mafashoni omwe anafika msinkhu kumapeto kwa zaka za makumi asanu ndi awiri ndi makumi asanu ndi atatu, pali zotsatsa zina zodziwika bwino komanso zodziwika bwino zomwe zimatenthedwa m'maganizo-ndipo mwayi ndi mgwirizano pakati pa wojambula Bruce Weber ndi stylist Paul Cavaco. Anagwira ntchito limodzi kwa zaka zopitirira makumi aŵiri, koma m’kupita kwa nthaŵi moyo wabanja ndi mipata yatsopano ya ntchito zinawapangitsa kuyamba ntchito zosiyanasiyana. Mpaka pano: patadutsa zaka khumi ndi zisanu ndi chimodzi motalikirana, VMAN ili wokondwa kulumikizanso gulu lamphamvu pazithunzi zamasamba 28 munkhani yathu yakugwa. Tidalemekezedwa pomwe adavomeranso kugawana zambiri za mbiri yawo yayitali komanso ubale wokhazikika, komanso nkhani zingapo zakumbuyo zomwe zidachitika kale.
Wojambula ndi stylist anakumana koyamba pakuwombera mu 1976, m'masiku oyambirira a Cavaco monga chitsanzo. "Ndine wotsutsana ndi chitsanzo cha Bruce Weber," akufotokoza modzichepetsa. "Mwachidule, osamangidwa konse ... kunali mphukira kwa anthu enieni." Komabe, Weber anaona chinachake mwa mnyamatayo pamene anamutulutsa pamzere kuti athandize kuvala anyamata ena. "Sindinkadziwa zomwe ndikuchita, choncho ndinalibe malamulo," adatero Cavaco. Amaloza Kezia Keeble, yemwe anali bwenzi lake panthawiyo, monga mlangizi wake woyamba. (Malemu Keeble ndi nthano mwa iye yekha: mkonzi wakale wa Vogue yemwe pambuyo pake adapeza kampani yodziwika bwino komanso yotsatsa malonda ya KCD ndi Cavaco ndi John Duka, wolemba mafashoni ku New York Times.) "Ndinaphunzitsidwa ndi Kezia kuti yang'anani zomwe zikuchitika, kuyang'ana zomwe Bruce ankakonda, ndikuyang'ana chithunzi chonse," akutero. "Sizinali za zovala zokha, zinali za fano."
Patangotha msonkhano wamwayi, Weber adapempha Cavaco kuti athandize pazithunzi zotsatsa ndipo adayamba kugwirira ntchito limodzi mokhazikika, akukankhira malire amitundu yonse pamene amapita. Tengani nkhani ya zovala zamkati chakumapeto kwa zaka za m'ma 70 za Soho Weekly News yokhala ndi wojambula Jeff Aquilon, yemwe Weber adamuchotsa mu timu ya polo yapamadzi ku Pepperdine University. "Paulo adalemba chinthu chonsecho, kuchokera kumabowo a masokosi mpaka kuvala zakale," akutero Weber. "Muyenera kumvetsetsa panthawi yomwe zinthu zamtunduwu sizinachitike. Amuna sanali kwenikweni kupanga mitundu imeneyo ya zithunzi. Paulo nthawi zonse ankaganiza zopita patsogolo. Anali wodzimva kukhala wa m’khwalala, ndipo anali ndi lingaliro la kukongola panthaŵi imodzimodziyo.”
Pali mbiri yambiri yamafashoni pakati pa malingaliro awiri olenga awa, ena a iwo adalumikizana pakati pa 80's mpaka 90's. Nthawi zodziwika bwino kudzera mu lens la Weber komanso mawonekedwe owoneka bwino a Cavaco.
gwero: VMAN