Ndili ndi chiwonetsero chozama cha zakuthambo chokhazikitsidwa ndi director waku France a Thomas Vanz, chiwonetsero cha amuna cha Fall 2021 chopangidwa ndi Kim Jones chophatikiza cholowa cha Dior ndi luso, kusakaniza ma silhouette okonzedwanso komanso utoto wa acid wa wojambula waku America Kenny Scharf.
Kim Jones adakonzekera kuwonetsa chopereka chake cha Dior chisanachitike ku Beijing chaka chino. Poyang'anizana ndi ziletso zopitilira kuyenda zolumikizidwa ndi mliri wa coronavirus, adasinthira ku Plan B: mlengalenga.
Chiwonetsero chake chapaintaneti chinali ndi zitsanzo zomwe zikuyenda motsatana ndi milalang'amba yopangidwa ndi a Thomas Vanz, wotsogolera ku France yemwe amadziwika kuti amawonetsa mlengalenga modabwitsa, motsutsana ndi nyimbo ya Deee-lite. Zovalazo sizinali zocheperapo: Jones adajambula Kenny Scharf, yemwe zojambula zake zokhala ngati zojambula zimakhala zozama kwambiri ndi sci-fi, kuti apereke mawonekedwe ake okongola pamzere.
"Ndinkafuna kuchita chinachake chosangalatsa komanso poppy, chifukwa zonse zili pansi panthawiyi," Jones anafotokoza paulendo wopita ku Paris mu October.
Ngakhale zojambulazo zidapereka kuthawa kutopa komwe kumafunikira ku COVID-19, zosonkhanitsirazo zidakhazikitsidwa muzovala zotonthoza zomwe zakhala zovuta kwa magulu ankhondo a anthu ogwira ntchito komanso kucheza kunyumba.
Jones wapanga chisankho champhamvu chokonzekera kuyambira pamene adalowa nawo Dior monga mtsogoleri wa luso lazosonkhanitsa amuna, koma adamasula silhouette ndi lamba, jekete zokhala ngati malaya ndi malaya, mathalauza a jacquard a pajama ndi mink slippers yosindikizidwa.
mathalauza adabwera momasuka motsogozedwa ndi yunifolomu yankhondo, yomwe idalowetsedwanso mu jekete zokhala ndi mawere awiri okhala ndi matumba onyamula katundu ndi ma epaulets, ndi ma jekete a Harrington mumitundu yosiyanasiyana yansalu ndi mawonekedwe, kuphatikiza mink yodulidwa ngati corduroy.
Tsitsi lawo litadulidwa m'mbale zopaka utoto wonyezimira kapena kumangidwanso mu mabanki ang'onoang'ono olukidwa, zitsanzozo zimatengera malingaliro a mwana wazaka za Nineties, zomwe zimatsitsidwa ndi zonyezimira komanso zowoneka bwino pazovala zophatikizika ndi zimphona za diso limodzi za Scharf komanso mawonekedwe owoneka bwino amtundu wa Day-Glo. .
Jones adakumana ndi wojambula zithunzi Tony Shafrazi ku New York City atangotsala pang'ono kutseka, zomwe zidamupangitsa kuganizira za nthano zazaka za m'ma Eighties, pomwe Scharf, Keith Haring ndi Jean-Michel Basquiat adabweretsa zaluso zapamsewu m'malo osungiramo zojambulajambula ndi malo osungiramo zinthu zakale.
Wapanga mayanjano apamwamba kwambiri ndi akatswiri ojambula chinthu chapakati pa mapangidwe ake ku Dior, kutulutsa zojambulajambula zatsopano zosonkhanitsidwa: zidutswa zopangidwa kuti zigwirizane ndi luso la haute couture-grade.
Nyumba yapamwamba ya ku France inalembetsa msonkhano wapadera ku China kuti apente zojambula za Scharf mu 1984 pa malaya, pogwiritsa ntchito njira yosoka mbewu yomwe inayamba mu zaka za m'ma 300 za mzera wa Han. Pamwamba pakufunika maola 7,000 akugwira ntchito masiku 95.
Njira yomweyi idagwiritsidwanso ntchito pamalamba amikombero a wavy, motsogozedwa ndi zojambula zaposachedwa za Scharf "LA Blobz" ndi "Koz," zomwe zidawonjezera zongopeka zosayembekezereka kuzinthu ngati suti yakhaki wamba.
Jones adati zidutswazo sizinali zowonetsera, chifukwa ogula ambiri amakopeka ndi chikhalidwe chawo chachipembedzo. “Anthu amafuna zinthu zapadera,” iye anatero. “Ngakhale sakuvala, ali nawo. Mutha kuyiyika pakhoma, mutha kuyiyika pakhoma.
Nthawi zambiri, a Jones amakonda kubweretsanso zitsanzo zamaluso am'deralo kuti awonjezere pankhokwe yake yayikulu yosungiramo zovala. Adalembetsa mnzake, yemwe kale anali wopanga ku Shanghai Tang, Victoria Tang-Owen, kuti amuthandize kupeza akatswiri aluso ku China.
"Ndinkangofuna kulemekeza lingaliro loyang'ana zamisiri padziko lonse lapansi, chifukwa anthu amalankhula za 'zopangidwa ku China' molakwika, koma kwenikweni luso lomwe ali nalo ndi lodzaza," adatero.
Chiwonetsero chapaintaneti cha zosonkhanitsira za Dior, zokhala ndi zojambula za Kenny Scharf za sci-fi, zidakhazikitsidwa mumlalang'amba wakutali, kutali.
M'malo mwa chiwonetsero chanjira, Dior adachita phwando ku Beijing pamaso pa akazembe amtundu wakomweko. Zina mwazogulitsa zomwe zimayang'ana msika wotukuka waku China zinali zotsogola zokhala ndi matanthauzidwe a Scharf azizindikiro zaku China za Zodiac, ndi zodzikongoletsera za jade zopangidwa ndi Yoon Ahn.
Jones adanenanso kuti achinyamata a Gen Z ayamba kukonda zikwama zam'manja za amayi akale, kotero panali mitundu yatsopano ya chikwama cha Dior Saddle mu chikopa cha neon pinki ndi chikopa chobiriwira cha ng'ona. "Tinkangofuna kusewera kuti tichoke mu izi, pomwe tili pano," adatero.
Adanenanso kuti Christian Dior adayambitsa dzinali mu 1946, pomwe Europe idakhala mabwinja kuchokera pankhondo yachiwiri yapadziko lonse. Kugonjetsa zovuta kuli mu DNA ya mtundu, kunena kwake. Scharf nayenso adapulumuka: pomwe Haring ndi Basquiat adagonja ku Edzi ndi mankhwala osokoneza bongo, motsatana, akadali wopaka utoto wazaka 62 - chikumbutso chanthawi yake kuti moyo umapitilira.