Zovala zimakhala zopanda jenda kwenikweni chifukwa chakuwonongeka kwa John Galliano wa Maison Margiela Wokonzeka Kuvala Kugwa/Zima 2019 Paris.
"Swan Lake" idasefukira kuchokera kwa okamba pawonetsero Lachitatu pomwe gulu lophatikizika lamitundu yosiyanasiyana likuwonetsa masitayilo ambiri opangidwa mwaluso ophatikizana ndi zisindikizo ndi mawonekedwe.
John Galliano adalakwitsa pokambirana za kugwa kwake kwa Maison Margiela. M'gawo laposachedwapa la "Memory of.. ." podcast momwe amayendera zolimbikitsa ndi njira zomwe zimapita kugulu lililonse, amatseka ndi mawu omveka amtundu umodzi. "Sizokhudza mapeto. Ndi ulendowo."
Inde, ulendo wofufuza, kupeza ndi kuzindikira ndizofunikira, makamaka pakupanga kowona monga Gallliano. Koma izi ndi mafashoni, ndipo mapeto ake ndi zovala. Momwe amawonekera pamzere womaliza ndizofunikira kwambiri, makamaka kwa iwo omwe ali ndi chidwi ndi malonda. Galliano's anali okongola - amphamvu komanso opangidwa mwaluso mu minimalism yovuta yomwe adatulutsa kuchokera kumutu wozungulira mutu womwe udawonetsa kuti adalowa m'malo ake mu Januware Artisanal.
M'malo mongoyang'ana pa kuchuluka kwanyengo kwa nyengo zingapo, monga momwe amachitira m.o. ndi zolemba zakale, Galliano adathamangitsa njirayo kuti athetse. Mu podcast, amalankhula za njira yosapeŵeka yakuwonongeka, kuchokera pakukoka mtima mpaka kuwonongeka pakufunafuna zowona zomwe Zakachikwi zimafuna. Kupyolera mu kuwonongeka, zinthu zakuthupi zikhoza kuchepetsedwa kukhala maziko ake enieni, ndipo inali njira yake apa. Mwamvetsa zimenezo?
Sizo zonse. Nyimboyi inati "Swan Lake." Momwemonso Galliano mu podcast yake, ngakhale kusunga chinthu chimodzi kapena ziwiri, simungakhale ndi chidziwitso popanda mawu ake a Cliff Notes. (Kulumikizana koonekeratu: malaya oyera a pillowy, ouziridwa ndi chikwama cha signature cha chizindikirocho ndipo amadzaza ndi kapu yosambira, yomwe imavalidwa ndi mwamuna monga gawo la nkhondo ya Galliano yosagwirizana ndi amuna kapena akazi).
Zomwe zosonkhanitsirazo zinali zenizeni: zovala zokongola, zachiwongola dzanja chambiri zomwe, zomasulidwa ku cacophony of couture's overdose, monyadira zidawonetsa zomanga zawo mwaluso.
Nthawi zambiri izi zinkaphatikizapo kusokera kwa telala, komwe kunkakhala ngati chinthu chokongoletsera komanso chikumbutso cha luso lapamwamba lopanga zovalazi. Zambiri mwazovalazo zinali zakuda, zowoneka bwino, zokhala ndi chikoka cha Yohji muzovala zolimba zomwe zimapangidwa muzovala zachimuna zachikale, ma flannel ndi herringbones.
Cholinga chake chinali pa silhouette, ndi njira yomangidwanso yomangidwanso ndi Galliano yosintha malaya a flannel kukhala diresi kapena thalauza kukhala bustier ndi siketi.
Koma zinalinso za mwayi wosinthika wa zinthu zenizeni za zomangamanga: momwe mapewa otsetsereka a malaya akuda a Crombie adapanga mawonekedwe a dome; kapena momwe malaya munsalu yosiyana ndi mokokomeza, yayitali komanso yodzaza kuposa momwe amayembekezera, malaya osinthidwa ndi jekete kuchokera ku classic kupita ku mafashoni; kapena momwe nsalu yakumanzere idatengera trope yodziwika kwinakwake. Chovala chakuda chakuda chosadziwika bwino? Mukubetcha, mu chiffon chovundikira pamwamba pa wadding woyera, wovala malaya akuda a Mackintosh.
Komabe choperekachi sichinali cha anthu osaganiza bwino. Ena amawoneka osiyanitsa kwambiri, chokongoletsera chomwe chinayambitsidwa mwanzeru mu kukongola kwa diresi, neoprene yakuda kutsogolo ndi zingwe zotuwa kumbuyo. Mfundo: miyambo yosokoneza, ndipo Galliano adalowamo ndikuyika mapanelo osindikizidwa okhala ndi flamingo yotentha yapinki (sunthani, inu ma buluu abuluu) kutsogolo kwa diresi la herringbone ndi malaya am'mbuyo ndi ma jekete. Ndipo ndi chiyani chachikhalidwe kuposa malaya a amuna a Harris tweed? Galliano yekhayo adamudula mu jekete lalifupi, la bokosi, gulu lake lakumbuyo lakumbuyo la flamingo lofanana ndi mathalauza a jacquard olimba pakhungu ndi nsapato zachikopa, ndipo amavala ndi mwamuna wa Galliano wopanda jenda.
Mkhalidwe wonse unali wa bata lamphamvu, koma mkatimo, Galliano ankaseka, nthawi zina kutengera zovala ndi omvera ake ku chipwirikiti. Munthu angathedi kugula mu kufufuza kwake kuti apeze zowona mu decadence; palibe amene ali katswiri kuposa iye pamalingaliro ozama a mafashoni. Kapena munthu angangosangalala kupeza chovala chabwino kwambiri chimenecho kuti akagule kugwa kotsatira ndikukhala nawo kosatha. Mulimonsemo, ulendo wa Galliano ndi zomaliza ndizofunikadi ulendowu.