M'masiku omwe atsogolere chiwonetsero cha Marni, Francesco Risso ndi gulu lake adapanga zopangira anthu 400. Zitsanzozo zidapeza chotolera chatsopano cha masika, pomwe owonetsa ndi alendo owonetsa mawonetserowo adavala thonje lopangidwa ndi thonje lolekanitsa manja ndi mikwingwirima yowoneka bwino. Shati yanga yamsasa yapinki ndi yoyera inali ndi nambala 219 mwa 800, ndipo mathalauza anga 218 mwa 800; onsewo anasokedwa ndi kachigamba kakang’ono kamene kanalembedwa kuti Marniphernalia: Miscellaneous Handpainted Treasures. Risso adakhumudwitsidwa ndi kuyang'ana kwa digito kwa ntchitoyo panthawi yotseka. Lingaliro lake, iye anafotokoza kuti, “linali lakuti tibwerere ku zizoloŵezi zimene timachita, zopangira anthu zovala, mmodzi ndi mmodzi. Iye adati ndondomekoyi ndi yofunika kwambiri kwa iye monga zotsatira zomaliza.
CHIKHALIDWE CHOCHOKERA CHA MIKWARE
Koma, o, chotsatira chotsiriza bwanji! Nyengo yonseyi, takhala tikudikirira wopanga yemwe adagwira ntchito yolimba koma yofunikira kuti athane ndi mliri wazaka ndi theka wa mliri komanso chilungamo chamitundu. Ndani adavomereza kusintha komwe dziko ladutsamo pakudzipatula kwathu, ndipo adasintha momwe amachitira zinthu. Usikuuno wopangayo anali Risso, ndipo zomwe adabwera nazo zinali zocheperako kuposa momwe zimakhalira mafashoni.
Othandizira ake anali ambiri: Dev Hynes ndi amene ankayang'anira nyimbo, wolemba ndakatulo Mykki Blanco anachita zolankhulidwa, ndipo woimba Zsela anaphatikizidwa ndi kwaya yoimba yakumwamba. Pazolemba za pulogalamuyi, Babak Radboy, yemwe amadziwika ndi ntchito yake ndi Telfar Clemens, adagawana malangizo opanga. Oyimbawo anali ndi mitundu yosiyanasiyana, kuphatikizana kwa thupi, komanso kusamvana kwa amuna ndi akazi komwe kwakhala chizolowezi ku Telfar ku New York. “Pamapeto pake, Milan anadzuka,” anatero mnzanga wina akutuluka pakhomo.
Kuvala omvera kunali pakati pa lingaliro. Potigwirizanitsa ndi zitsanzo, zinathandiza kuti mfundo yofunikira yomwe Risso atengere yomwe ena alibe pano: kutsimikizika kumafunika kwambiri kuposa kulakalaka mu 2021. Ndipo ngati sichoncho, ndiye kuti imagwirizana kwambiri. Mitundu iwiri yayikulu yosonkhanitsa masika inali mikwingwirima ndi daisies. “Mikwingwirima imagwirizanitsidwa kwambiri ndi mayendedwe, kumene maluwa otchedwa daisies ali chiyambi chatsopano ndi cholimba; iwo ndi malingaliro a banal," adatero. Koma mu phale la buluu ndi lachikasu, iwo sanali otopetsa.
Akuyenda mozungulira malo ozungulira asanatembenuzire bwalo pamalo apakati, otsatsirawo adavala madiresi owoneka bwino amtundu wa rugby, ma blazer otchingidwa ndi mitundu, ma ponchos a Breton, ma caftan oluka osavuta, ma cardigans ndi shawls, imodzi mwazotengera Risso mwiniwake: zovala za tsiku ndi tsiku ndi kumverera kwa dzanja. Kenako kunabwera ma daisies, omwe amamveka ngati owoneka bwino kwambiri: okongoletsedwa mopanda nzeru pamawonekedwe a Marni, intarsia'd pamaluko a trompe l'oeil, komanso mawonekedwe omaliza, opaka pamanja pa diresi ya T-sheti yayitali pansi.
Risso anati: “Ndinkangoganizirabe zamasewera, osati chifukwa chakuti gululi limafotokoza zamasewera mwatsatanetsatane, koma chifukwa cha mmene magulu amagwirira ntchito—mgwirizano umenewo,” anatero Risso. "Kumapeto kwa tsiku, mphunzitsi wathu ndi ndani? Ndi kugunda kwa mtima wathu, kumagwirizanitsa aliyense. "
Pamene otsatsira adazungulira gulu la anthu pamapeto pake ndipo Szela adayimba nyimbo yoyamba ya Dev Hynes "Guide You Home," omvera adawomba m'manja. Zinapitirira kwa nthawi ndithu. Risso adapeza mgwirizano womwe amayembekezera. Ifenso tinatero.
Alessio Costantino @askmeaboutdogs