E. Tautz Spring/Chilimwe 2020 London "Ndimakonda kuganiza kuti gululi linali losangalatsa, ngati Barry Manilow woyambirira," adatero Grant, yemwe zovala zake zidapukutidwa komanso zokhazikika.
Kawirikawiri, nyimbo zomveka ku London ziwonetsero zimachokera ku zaka zambiri za talente ya ku Britain - punk, pop, reggae, hip hop ndi techno - koma Patrick Grant wa E. Tautz analibe nazo. Kumapeto kwa chiwonetsero chake chachikondi chamasika, adasankha nyimbo ya Barry Manilow ya 1973, "Mandy."
"Ndimakonda kuganiza kuti gululi linali losangalatsa, monga Barry Manilow woyambirira," atero Grant, yemwe adapanga chojambula chake chopukutidwa, chosasunthika pazithunzi zomwe amakonda kwambiri za Seventies ndi Eighties, kusakaniza ndi kusanjikiza zovala zokongoletsedwa ndi wamba, denim ndi zovala zamumsewu. ndi aplomb.
Mitundu ndi mawonekedwe adadzutsa mkati mwa makumi asanu ndi awiri, kuyambira lavenda, bulauni, lalanje-pinki, dzimbiri ndi dzira la robin buluu. Iwo adalimbikitsidwa ndi mapepala apambuyo ndi ma upholstery pazithunzi za Tish Murtha, wojambula zithunzi yemwe adayang'ana kwambiri achinyamata a ku Britain omwe alibe ntchito m'zaka khumi zimenezo.
Silhouettes anali ofooka. Mashati amphepo, onyezimira anafika abuluu owala ndi macheke a pawindo pamene ena anali ndi maluwa kapena matumba aang'ono kutsogolo. Amaphatikizidwa ndi mathalauza a denim kapena thalauza la thonje, zokongoletsedwa bwino za kutsogolo kapena akabudula.
Ma jekete opangidwa ndi tchire kapena dzimbiri opaka mapewa okhala ndi zoluka zowala, zotalikirana ndi ma sweatshirt okhala ndi m'mphepete opukutidwa chifukwa cha mawonekedwe osavuta a geometric kudutsa kutsogolo.
E. Tautz Spring/Chilimwe 2019 London
Grant, yemwenso ali ndi telala wa Savile Row Norton & Sons, adayankha mafunso okhudza kubwereranso kwa masitayilo pambuyo pa kusefukira kwa zovala za mumsewu panjira.
“Kusoka kumawoneka bwino kwambiri ngati kuli kololedwa kukhala kwabwinobwino, kukhala zovala - osati ‘chinthu.’ Mukhoza kuvala zosoka ndi ma jeans, akabudula, mathalauza osokedwa ndi osapangidwa. Nyengo ino tidapanganso ‘masuti’ ndi akabudula ndi malaya a baseball,” anatero wokonzayo.