Virgil Abloh adachita sewero lomwe lidasanthula mitu yamitundu komanso kugawa zikhalidwe.
Ndani angatenge chovala? Ndi funso lomwe Virgil Abloh adatsala pang'ono kusinkhasinkha pambuyo pa zopereka zake zomaliza za Louis Vuitton, kutsatira zomwe adamuneneza wopanga waku Belgian Walter Van Beirendonck kuti adang'amba zina mwazopanga zake - zomwe Abloh adatsutsa mwamphamvu.
Zinamupangitsa Abloh kuganiza za kukhazikitsidwa kwa chikhalidwe, komanso malingaliro ake a kapangidwe kake ngati wachinyamata Wakuda ku U.S. "Ndinakula ndikumva kuti kupanga sikunali kwa ine, chifukwa sindinawone aliyense wonga ine popanga," adatero.
M’malo mwake, chinenero cha anthu wamba cha Abloh chinali “chozoloŵereka: zinthu zopezeka mosavuta, zosalinganizidwa. Zovala zomwe zinali pa sitolo yanga yochotsera, zomwe sizinapangidwe, ndi zovala zomwe zili mumsewu wapamwamba, zidapangidwa. Ndiye maphunziro anga amafashoni. "
Zovala za zovala - suti ya bizinesi, jekete ya denim, malaya a duster kapena ma jeans - adapanga maziko a kugwa kwake kwa Vuitton. Koma ngakhale ma archetypes amatha kutengera ndale akamawonedwa kudzera mumtundu wamtundu. M'dziko lopanda mitundu, kodi wophunzira amawoneka bwanji, kapena wogulitsa, mwiniwake wazithunzi, womanga nyumba?
Funsoli lidathandizira ulaliki wake wozama, womwe umaphatikizanso ndakatulo za slam, choreography, konsati, kukhazikitsa zojambulajambula - komanso kusewera pamadzi oundana. Wopangidwa ndi wosewera Josh Johnson, lingaliroli lidauziridwa ndi "Stranger in the Village," nkhani ya 1953 yolemba wolemba James Baldwin.
Kanemayo adapangidwa kuti aziwonetsedwa pompopompo, adajambulidwa popanda alendo chifukwa choletsa kufalikira kwa COVID-19.
Woyimilira ngati Baldwin anali nyenyezi ya "Slam" Saul Williams, yemwe adachita bwino kwambiri. Chotseguliracho chinamuwonetsa iye atavala chovala chakuda chakuda akuyendayenda m'mapiri a chipale chofewa, asanasamukire ku marble yamakono yomwe ili mkati mwa Tennis Club de Paris.
Amuna ovala masuti owoneka bwino adadutsa pomwe munthu adagona pansi, atavala ngati iwo. Pa nyimboyo, wolemba ndakatulo wa ku Britain Kai-Isaiah Jamal anaimba kuti: "Monga anthu akuda, monga anthu osasunthika, komanso ngati anthu oponderezedwa, dziko liri pano kuti titenge, chifukwa zimatengera zambiri kwa ife." Kanemayo adatseka ndikuchita bwino kwa rapper Mos Def.
Zovala zimawerengedwa ngati mitundu yokulirapo ya masilhouette odziwika bwino: suti yotuwa idasinthidwa ndikusindikizidwa ndi miyala ya marble ya trompe-l'oeil, pomwe malaya anali atatalikirana kwambiri kuti ayende pansi. "Ndinkafuna kupanga zovala zomwe zinali zachikhalidwe, koma zokulitsa, kotero kuti zikhale zaluso, kapena zowulukira, kapena zolemba," adatero Abloh.
Wopangayo nthawi zambiri amalankhula za lamulo lake la "3 peresenti": kusintha mapangidwe omwe alipo ndi 3 peresenti yokha kuti asandutse chinthu chatsopano. Ndi njira yomwe yamupangitsa kuti aziimbidwa mlandu wakuba, zomwe amakhulupirira kuti zili ndi mawu opondereza, popeza opanga azungu amabwereka zikhalidwe zina.
Potembenuza magome kwa otsutsa ake, Abloh adaganiza zowonetsera Black design motifs zomwe zingakhale zosazindikirika mu chikhalidwe cha Azungu. Nsalu zomangika, zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito pazovala zakunja kapena masiketi opaka ngati kilt, zidapanga mlatho pakati pa ma tartan aku Scottish ndi nsalu ya kente yomwe abambo ake aku Ghana amavala pamisonkhano yapadera.
Nsalu zokhala ndi mawonekedwe, zophatikiza ndi siginecha ya maluwa a Vuitton pamodzi ndi mapiramidi ndi mamapu apadziko lonse lapansi, zidatengera nsalu zowoneka bwino za sera zomwe amayi ake amakonda.
"Pokhala m'modzi mwa opanga ochepa amitundu omwe amawonetsa pandandanda wa Parisian, mwanjira ina, ndine mutu wakuyenda kwamitundu yosiyanasiyana," adatero Abloh. "Zowonadi sindikufuna kuti zinthuzo zingokhala kamphindi."
Kuti atsindike mfundo yake, wojambulayo, yemwe wapanga mawu ogwidwa amasaina chizindikiro cha Off-White, adajambula wojambula Lawrence Weiner kuti apange ma aphorism achinsinsi monga "Penapake penapake," omwe amawonekera pazingwe zachikwama ndi masikhafu.
Louis Vuitton adapereka Zotolera za Fall-Zima 2021 zolembedwa ndi Virgil Abloh ku Paris pa Januware 21.
Kanema wa Virgil Abloh ndi 'Moved by the Motion'
Kuyika thumba lake lazovala zowoneka bwino komanso zowoneka bwino zinali zomanga za trompe-l'oeil, monga pamwamba zopangidwa ndi zojambula za 3D za zipilala za Paris monga tchalitchi cha Notre-Dame, ndi zovala zingapo pazithunzi zobiriwira zomwe zimawerengedwa ngati ndemanga yolakwika. pamiyoyo yathu yotseka ya digito - ndipo idatsimikizika kuti ipezeka pa Instagram.
Ndi zolemba zosokonekera kwambiri, zimafunikira digiri yamaphunziro azikhalidwe, chiwonetserochi chidafotokoza zovuta zomwe opanga masiku ano amakumana nazo: momwe angathandizire kusintha zokonda za ogula, kuthana ndi kusiyanasiyana, kubwezeretsanso komanso kuchepetsa phokoso?
"Pali nthawi yambiri yoganiza," Abloh adatsimikiza. "Kupanga chiwonetsero mu 2021 ndikosiyana kwambiri ndi 2020 ndi 2019, ndithudi. Zimatengera kulingalira kwakukulu kuti ndichite chinachake molemera ndi mphamvu yokoka, komanso ponena za kutseka kwa mafakitale, kapena kufunitsitsa kukhalabe pa ndandanda, ndikupanga chinachake mwaluso. "
M'lingaliroli, chiwonetsero cha kugwa kwa 2021 chinali projekiti yake yolakalaka kwambiri mpaka pano, ndikulimbitsa udindo wamitundu yamafashoni monga opanga zikhalidwe. Ngakhale zingakhale zovuta kuti Abloh adzitengere yekha ngongole chifukwa cha khamali, chifukwa cha kuchuluka kwa ogwira nawo ntchito omwe adakhudzidwa, imeneyo inali mfundo yake.
NYIMBO: Choyambirira cha Mafilimu ndi Onetsani Nyimbo
Direction by Asma Maroof Louis Vuitton
Musical Direction wolemba Benji B
Music Guest Stars: yasiin bey & Saul Williams
Saxophone & Flute: Tapiwa Svosve
Cello & Piano: Patrick Belaga
Ng’oma: Mathieu Edward
Zeze: Ahya Simone
Zowonjezera Nyimbo Zopanga ndi Daniel Pineda
Ndakatulo zowonjezera za Kai-Isaiah Jamal
Onetsani Concept & Scenic Design: PLAYLAB
Creative Agency: Khalani Ma Studios Abwino
Tsitsi: Guido Palau
Make-up: Ammy Drammeh
Zojambulajambula: Studio Temp
Art Direction & Research: Mahfuz Sultan & Chloe Sultan
Kupanga Mafashoni: La Mode en Images Fashion Services yolembedwa ndi KCD
Kuyimba ndi Samuel Ellis Scheinman, Piergiorgio Del Moro;
Mothandizidwa ndi Arthur Mejean. 'Moved by the Motion' Yoyendetsedwa ndi Nadja Rangel ku Outofocus Management.