"Velvet yakhala imodzi mwansalu zomwe ndimakonda kwambiri. Velvet kwa tsiku. Velvet madzulo. " – Tom Ford. Dziwani Zosonkhanitsa za Men's Fall 2021 ku New York.
Ngati sichikupezeka konse, chifukwa mawonekedwe a Ford ndi ofunitsitsa kwambiri, zovalazo zikuwoneka kuti ndizogwirizana ndi momwe amawonera malingaliro ngati chinthu chabwino kwambiri chamunthu, ndikulowa mumayendedwe achitonthozo.
Munthawi imeneyi yomwe ili ndi mafashoni a digito, okonza mapulani apanga mawonekedwe, kupanga makanema achidule ofotokozera, kulembetsa anthu azitsanzo, otsogolera mayina akulu ndi anthu otchuka a "Saturday Night Live" kuti awonetse ndikupanga phokoso ndi zomwe adasonkhanitsa.
Koma osati Tom Ford, kunja kuno mu Hollywood; analola zovala zake kuti zilankhule, kumasula mabuku a amuna ndi akazi popanda kukondwerera Lamlungu m'mawa, tsiku lomwe linayenera kukonzedwanso chifukwa anali ndi kachilombo ka HIV m'chipinda chake chogwirira ntchito.
"Pambuyo pa chaka chokhazikika pa mafoni a Zoom osavala bwino kapena nditavala ma jean ndi malaya akuda omwewo, ndakonzeka kuvala suti ...
Tom Ford
"Fashoni, monga moyo wathu wonse, yakhala ngati yongoyimitsidwa," adalemba m'mabuku ake omwe amayesa kudziwa zomwe anthu angafune kuvala atatha chaka chimodzi thukuta.
Yankho lake? "Njira wamba kukhala mopambanitsa" - kuvula koma mosakayikira Tom m'maso ake kugonana ndi mutu wapamwamba kwambiri.
Maonekedwe ocheperako komanso zidutswa zambiri, choperekachi chinkawoneka ngati chowoneka bwino komanso chapamtima. Mwina kumasulidwa ku siteji ya msewu wonyamukira ndege kungakhale chinthu chabwino. Ndipo ngati sichipezeka konse, chifukwa Ford's metier ndi yofunitsitsa kwambiri, zovalazo zikuwoneka kuti ndizogwirizana ndi momwe iwo amawonera malingaliro ngati kalembedwe kabwino kamunthu, ndikulowa mumayendedwe achitonthozo, kaya ndi chovala chokongoletsera, zovala zamkati zapadera kapena chovala chamkati. power park. "Ndikutanthauza, ndani safuna kukhala woyipa - makamaka atatsekeredwa kunyumba kwa chaka?" mlengi analemba.
Ngakhale kuti makampani ambiri aku America akuphatikizana ndi kukula, mawu a Wallis Simpson akuti "Simungakhale wolemera kwambiri kapena woonda kwambiri" adadutsa m'maganizo mwanga ndikungoyang'ana chiuno. Koma pamtundu wina, mawu a Simpson akadali owona; Ndinakumbutsidwa Lachisanu pamene ndinali pa nkhomaliro ku Polo Lounge ndipo mnyamata wina wopemphera wa mtundu wa jeans wagolide anagwedezeka kudutsa tebulo langa. Ankawoneka ngati gehena mu zomwe zikadakhala Tom Ford, koma sindingayerekeze kuti adadya kuyambira 1967.
Chifukwa chake panali akabudula achikopa owopsa ndi ma microminis, ma jinzi owoneka bwino mpaka ma X-ray okhala ndi mphuno yabwino m'mwendo ndi m'mphepete mwa bondo, zonse zokhala ndi unyolo wagolide pang'ono m'chiuno. Iwo ankawoneka ozizira, ophatikizidwa ndi sweti ya mohair yonyezimira mumtundu wolemera wa caramel hue, kapena jekete la rose lagolide la denim (monga zodzikongoletsera za jeans, zomwe Ford anachita kale ku Gucci).
Voliyumu pamwamba, tinthambi tating'onoting'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono ta velvet pamiyendo yopanda kanthu, ndi malaya apamwamba ankhondo pamwamba pa zovala zamkati za Tom Ford za cashmere, Edie Sedgwick. "Izi zikuwoneka bwino ngati muli omasuka ndi thupi lanu ndipo muli ndi ufulu pansi pa zidutswa," Ford adalemba, ndikuwonjezeranso nsonga yamakongoletsedwe kuti mathalauza owoneka bwino komanso owoneka bwino amathanso kuchita chimodzimodzi.
Mutu wa zovala zamkati unapitilira pa lace wakuda wopangidwa ndi manja otuwa ndi bulawuti wansomba yemwe anali ndi malingaliro enieni pa jinzi, ndi maloto a tangerine a diresi lachidole la khosi lalitali, la manja athunthu, ndi zingwe zopindika zikusewera peekaboo pamphuno. ndi chiuno. Nditha kuzilingalira paphwando labwino kwambiri la Bel Air - ngakhale phwando la chakudya chamadzulo awiri.
Analimbikitsa amuna kuti avalenso, koma osati tayi yakuda. M'malo mwake, Ford adanenanso za "ma 60s kuvala-wamba (Sam Cooke adakumbukira kuwona mathalauza ndi zofewa, mwina chifukwa ndidangowona "Usiku Umodzi ku Miami") ndi '80s punk (Paul Simonon wa The Clash. ndi maso ake owukira komanso ma jekete achikopa onyezimira anali pa bolodi la okonza).
Palibe amene amapanga jekete la velveti ngati Ford, ndipo nyengoyi panali zambiri ndipo zinali zosavuta - jekete yobiriwira ya emerald yokhala ndi velvet yaying'ono yodulidwa, imodzi (mawonekedwewa anali abwino mu chikopa chonyezimira), komanso velvet yabuluu ya denim. blazer wa m'mawere amodzi wokhala ndi mathalauza ofananira, opanda tayi. Mitunduyo inali yowoneka bwino modabwitsa ponseponse. Ndipo kwa zinthu zamtengo wapatali, nanga bwanji jekete yoyera ya zip-front, cashmere turtleneck ndi jeans? Zowoneka bwino komanso zoyera.
Malo ochezeramo abwino kwambiri, mikanjo yosuta idabwera ndi velveti yamaluwa yamaluwa yovekedwa ndi mathalauza akat blot pajama ndi ma tassel loaf. Mukadali kunyumba, koma pangani mawonekedwe a Tom Ford.