Director of Creative Pierpaolo Piccioli adachita chidwi ndi coed yakuda ndi yoyera komanso yopangidwa mwaluso kwambiri kugwa kwa 2021.
Pierpaolo Piccioli adatsegula zolemba zake za Valentino ndi mawu ochokera kwa Lucio Fontana, wojambula waku Italy yemwe adayambitsa Spatialism ndikudula komanso kubaya zinsalu. Bukuli linali loyenera, popeza mlengiyo adawonetsa silhouette yatsopano - madiresi amfupi kwambiri ndi masiketi - kudula kwambiri ndikusintha kuchuluka kwa siginecha yake kutalika kwapansi ndi mapangidwe amadzimadzi.
Mathalauza achimuna adadulidwanso pamwamba pa akakolo. Piccioli adayesa mawonekedwe aafupi a masika, koma adavomereza kuti iyi inali lingaliro lofunikira pakugwa.
Wopangayo adakumana ndi kagulu kakang'ono ka atolankhani - onse oyesedwa moyenerera komanso otalikirana - pambuyo pa chiwonetserochi, chomwe chidawonetsedwa kuchokera ku Piccolo Teatro di Milano Lolemba, tsiku lomwe Milan ndi dera la Lombardy adabwerera kuziletso zokulirapo, kulowa zomwe zimatchedwa. lalanje - sitepe chabe pansi pa malo ofiira - kupatsidwa chithunzithunzi cha matenda a coronavirus. Mkwiyowu udakulitsidwa kudzera mu sewero la Cosima ndi Milan's Symphonic Orchestra Giuseppe Verdi, akuimba nyimbo ya "Nothing Compares 2U" ya Sinéad O'Connor.
Koma wopangayo amafuna kuti apereke uthenga waufulu ndi chiyembekezo, ponena kuti kutsegula bwalo la zisudzo pambuyo pa miyezi yambiri yotsekeredwa kunali "chizindikiro cholimba mtima, pafupifupi cha punk," kutha "kugawana nawo malingaliro awonetsero pomwe zochitika zamagulu zichitika. anakanidwa.” Ananenanso kuti Piccolo ndi "chizindikiro cha chikhalidwe chopita patsogolo ndipo chimaphatikizapo zonse zomwe mtundu wathu umayimira, ndi malo ophatikizana komanso ufulu."
Piccoli adati akufuna kukhala wotsimikiza, kupereka uthenga womveka bwino. Ndipo kotero iye anatero, pamene kusonkhanitsa kokhota kumatengera zinthu zenizeni komanso phale lakuda ndi loyera, kupatula mawonekedwe agolide ochepa. Zinali zodziwika bwino pamisiri ndi amisiri a Valentino, popeza zokometsera ndi intarsia zinali zokongola komanso zatsatanetsatane, pafupifupi ngati couture. Piccioli sadzilekanitsa ndi zomwe amachitcha "mzimu wa couture monga chikhalidwe, koma kugwiritsidwa ntchito tsiku ndi tsiku komanso popanda chikhumbo chilichonse cham'mbuyo."
Chomwe chinkawoneka ngati mesh turtleneck chinali kwenikweni chopangidwa ndi nsalu zopotoka zomwe zimayikidwa pa tulle, kupanga chitsanzo cha diamondi, ndi kuvala mu zigawo pansi pa malaya, pullover ndi malaya. Chizindikiro cha macro V kapena gulu la macro cheque chonyezimira ndi intarsia, chomwe chimawonjezera mawonekedwe, pomwe chokongoletsera cha Victorian bib ngati lace chimakongoletsa diresi la madontho a polka. Zovala zakunja zinali zabwino kwambiri, pomwe Piccioli adayenderanso mapiko ndi ma jekete ngati ma capes - chikumbutso china cha couture.
Madzulo, kutalika kwake kunabwerera pa mikanjo yoyenda.
Choyimilira chinali chovala chakuda cha chiffon chokhala ndi mapanelo amodzi olumikizidwa pamodzi ndi nthimbi. Zachikondi? Mwina, koma Piccioli, adalongosola kuti chikondi m'mawu ake sichiyimira "kukongola koma Sturm und Drang, ndikusankha kukhala munthu payekha, osati gulu, ndi chisokonezo cha punk ndi kumvera. Uku ndi kukondana kwambiri kwaumwini, kwapamtima kwambiri, pali kukopeka koma uyu si mkazi wachigololo kapena wamwamuna, palibe malingaliro, anthu okhawo omwe amawonedwa mwa munthu payekhapayekha, popanda mawu aliwonse. "
Zowonjezeranso sizinakhumudwitse. Kuwonjezera pa maliseche atsopano, mapampu a chidendene cha stiletto okhala ndi zala zowonongeka, wojambulayo anawonetsa nsapato zokhala ndi mapepala olembedwa a rabara, omwe amalepheretsa kulimba kwawo.
Piccioli adasiya zonena za Valentino Garavani's couture collection ya 1989 yowuziridwa ndi katswiri wazomanga ku Vienna a Joseph Hoffman, wodziwikanso ndi zokongoletsera zakuda ndi zoyera.
"Sindimayang'ana zam'mbuyo kapena zolemba zakale, kuwunikiranso kudzakhala kutsanzira, ndipo patatha zaka 20 ku Valentino, ndikukhulupirira kuti ndatengera ma code amtunduwo ndikuwunikiranso mwanjira ina, ndi gawo la ine. Zingakhale zovuta kuti ndisiyanitse dzina langa ndi la Valentino, "adatero. "Kulumikizana ndi zakale ndi gawo lachidziwitso chokongola."
Pierpaolo Piccioli
Zowonadi, zosonkhanitsirazo zidawoneka zatsopano ndipo ziyenera kuthandizira m'badwo wachichepere womwe mtunduwo wakhala ukukopeka nawo. Lingaliro la Piccioli kuti agwire ntchito ndi wojambula, woimba komanso wotsutsa Zendaya kuti atsogolere malonda a kasupe akugwirizana ndi cholinga chake chopanga chizindikirocho kuti chigwirizane ndi nthawi komanso kuphatikizapo, ndikusunga zizindikiro zake.
Ngakhale zolemba zawonetserozi zidagwira mawu a Fontana, Piccioli adati palibe mutu wankhaniyo. Ndipotu, wokonza mapulani sakonda kufotokoza nkhani m'mafashoni, kukhulupirira kuti nthawi zina zakhala ngati chinyengo. "Nkhaniyi ndi yosonkhanitsa yokha, kudzera mu ntchito yanga ndimatha kuchita ndale, kubweretsa zikhalidwe ndi malingaliro, chilankhulo, ndipo kukhala pano ndikuchita."